The quality of the razors by country and company. Straight razor - go to the dark side. The benefits of a straight razor

Quite often our clients are interested in safety razors with replaceable blades - the so-called shavers. There is not so much detailed information on the Internet about them, however, as well as reviews of specific models on YouTube and other resources. In this article we will try to figure out how to choose, how to use such razors and consider several of their models in different categories.

What is shavetka and where did they come from?

In general terms, a shave (from the English "shavette") or a straight razor with replaceable blades is a folding razor (less often fixed, non-folding), which looks like classic straight razors, but uses replaceable blades for shaving. The term itself was used for Dovo razors, but soon caught on and began to be applied to all razors with replaceable blades.

For the first time, such razors were developed for use by barbers in hairdressing salons, in particular, to create the contours of haircuts: temples, sideburns, nape, etc. In the past, one of the most popular models of shawls was the Durham Duplex. Today this brand still exists in the dog grooming industry. Later, in connection with the ban on the use of classic dangerous razors in some countries, shawls began to be used for shaving.

Pros and cons of using shawts for a beginner

"Per"

• Firstly, using such a razor, you will look very cool, because this is how men shaved for hundreds of years before the invention of modern machine tools.
• Once you learn and get used to shaving with a shawl, it is unlikely that you will want to use a machine with expensive multi-blade cartridges again.
• Shavetka, unlike the classic "fear", does not need to be sharpened or straightened on the belt. As soon as the replacement blade becomes dull, it is enough to replace it with a new one - and you can shave with a sharp razor again.
• One of the biggest benefits is noticeably less skin irritation from using a single blade versus a cartridge with three or five.
• Well, and finally, the last, but one of the most powerful arguments "for" - the only consumables - replaceable blades - are incredibly cheap. Compared to buying cartridges like Gillette Mach 3, Fusion or Fusion Proglide, you will save tons of money.

"Against"

• It takes some time and effort to learn how to use a shawl, especially if you are switching from a modern machine. However, the time and effort spent will later pay off with interest.
• This razor has no cut protection other than your own care.
• In comparison with T-shaped razors, it will be difficult for a shawl at first to find the required angle at which the razor will be while shaving. Again, this flaw is just a matter of time and experience.

Shavki and classic straight razors

In general, inexpensive shawls can be seen as the entry-level in the range of straight razors, and some “top-end” models as an alternative. However, if the shave is purchased as a "practical guide" for shaving with straight razors, you need to take into account that the shave and the "fear" will be felt differently, because they need to be held at different angles relative to the skin. More often than not, straight razors are noticeably heavier than razors. And, perhaps, the main difference is the length of the blade, which is longer for a traditional razor.

However, the shawts are more compact and lighter, due to which, for example, it is more convenient to take them with you on a trip (even in comparison with heavy T-shaped machines).

If you're really looking for a classic straight razor in the future, you can also start with a well-sharpened, inexpensive traditional razor and belt. But the initial investment (razor, sharpening, belt, etc.) will be noticeably higher.

Let's compare a few basic financial parameters of both types of razors.

Shavetka	Straight razor
A small financial investment (the mongrel itself and the blades for it).	Requires significant starting financial costs when purchasing (razor, sharpening, belt).
It requires periodic purchase of new blades and their replacement every 5-7 days, but it pays off completely in comparison with modern machines.	It only requires sharpening once a year (service cost about $ 10), which fully pays for itself (if used by an experienced user), even in comparison with cheap replacement blades.
Inexpensive models are usually used for several years, during which time they can just get bored.	With proper care, it is inherited by grandchildren.
Sharpening is incredibly simple - just change the blade.	Sharpening requires a lot of experience or should be done by a master.
Of course, it doesn't require straightening on the belt, just changing the blades.	Belt straightening is highly recommended as it prolongs the life of the blade, but requires certain skills.

Types of shawts and the choice of blades for them

Shawks can be divided into three main types depending on the blades used. The first is razors that use the usual double-sided blades familiar to everyone. The second is the shawls, which use both ordinary blades and special elongated ones (their design allows the installation of both types), these are German Dovo razors. And finally, the third type - perhaps the most perfect shawls - are razors from the Japanese manufacturer Feather, which use special long blades from the same manufacturer. All razors with replaceable blades are available in the corresponding section, but for now let's look at each type, pros and cons of some models separately.

Shawks on standard blades

These are the simplest razors in terms of consumables. You can take any classic blade and, breaking it into two parts, and inserting it into the holder, start shaving.

One of the most popular shavers models due to their excellent price-quality ratio - Parker shavers are real "workhorses", often used not only for personal use, but also in barbershops.

Models 31R, 33R and 34R have a special opening blade mounting mechanism, while models PTW and PTB have a retractable design that holds the blade. It's worth noting that all Parker shavers are made of stainless steel, which is undoubtedly an advantage.

Which blade to choose? A very individual parameter to give a definite answer. If you're a beginner, start with our dedicated blade set. In it you will find 5-10 blades of all popular brands and you can choose the one that suits you and you enjoy using it.

For this type of razor, the blade must be halved into two parts without removing it from the envelope (so as not to accidentally cut your fingers, do not hold on to the edge of the blade). Then insert one half into the holder of the shawl, securing it with the appropriate shaver mechanism. The shaver is now ready for use.

Shavki on elongated blades

Speaking about such razors, we, of course, mean the classic among shavers - Dovo Shavette. Their main advantage is the ability to use both conventional blades and special long Dovo blades (they allow you to shave off a larger bristle area at once).

In addition, the razor is compact and lightweight, making it easy to maneuver and easy to use. The Dovo shawls also have a small plastic tip to prevent accidental cuts with the edge of the razor.

The blade is easy to insert - the razor has plastic holders for regular and long blades that fit into the body. The blade must also be halved beforehand.

However, the light weight and compactness of the shaver can be a disadvantage, especially for those with large palms.
In general, the Dovo razor has much more advantages. Especially when you consider that by purchasing this shawl and hundreds of blades, you will ensure yourself a comfortable shave for about a couple of years.

Feather shawls

And, finally, the benchmark among dangerous razors with replaceable blades - the Artist Club SS series of the Japanese manufacturer with a long history of Feather. They are available in two styles: traditional folding and unusual "Japanese" - the blade and the handle are one piece. They exclusively use blades from the same manufacturer, of which there are several options.

For example, Soft Guard blades are recommended for those with sensitive skin due to their softness. Light Blades are versatile, and ProGuard will handle even the thickest and toughest stubble.

The initially relatively high price is offset by the highest quality blades. They are superbly sharpened, each lasting longer than regular blades (about 10-15 uses of one blade), and shaving incredibly clean. They also have a very comfortable shave length. The blades are packed in special containers with which they can be easily installed in the razor holders.

We should also mention the handles of both Feather shawls. In the "Japanese" version, the handle is made of a pleasant rubberized material, due to which it fits perfectly in the hand and does not slip. The classic version has a special monkey tail design for excellent ergonomics.

How often should the blades be changed?

One of the first questions asked by buyers of not only shavers, but also safety razors. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an exact answer. For those with thicker bristles and stiff hair, the blade will need to be replaced more often than those with softer bristles.

Typically, the average is 3-5 uses of one standard blade. Everything is trite: the blade should be changed immediately, as soon as there was a feeling that it becomes dull. A dull blade will rip off hairs and irritate your skin.

Shaving with a shaving knife, which uses one blade versus three or five in Gillette machines, reduces irritation by itself, as the latter damages the skin three or five times more. But keep in mind that dull blades are annoyance's best friends, meaning changing the blade on time is very important.

If you steam your skin and stubble well with hot water before shaving, and also use pre-shaves, this will extend the life of the blade for a couple of uses. As a result, someone likes to change the blade after each shave, while someone can use one 10 or more times. So, as you can see, this is a very individual parameter.

Using a shawl: before you start

At first, shaving with a shawl can seem a bit tricky. You need to be extremely gentle, but as a result, you will get possibly the smoothest shave of your life. Now let's take a look at a few steps in preparation for shaving with a shave.

Step 1. Do not ignore the previ.

• Experienced adherents of classic shaving will certainly advise any beginner to thoroughly steam the stubble with a hot towel. However, a hot shower or at least washing with hot water before shaving should also be sufficient.
• The next step is often overlooked when shaving with other types of razors, but is important especially if you have stiff and thick stubble - use a pre-shave. This can be a pre-shave cream or oil.
• The product should be applied to the skin about 3-5 minutes before shaving and not washed off.
• Preshav softens the bristles, protects the skin from irritation and makes it more elastic.
• Remember that you will be shaving with an extremely sharp blade, so protection will be useful.

Step 2. Wash yourself with hot water. Remember to apply hot water directly to the stubble before shaving.

Step 3. Prepare shaving foam.

• Among the many products for making foam, the best will be soap or shaving cream, which will not irritate the skin, but rather protect and nourish it. Here you need a shaving brush.
• However, if using a shaving brush looks a little cumbersome at first, try starting with a cream that does not require this tool to make the foam.
• Cheaper foams or gels (such as Gillette) are not recommended due to their not too natural composition, which, in contact with enlarged pores, can negatively affect the skin.

Step 4. It will take a mirror, an intimate setting and more time.

• Allow at least 25-30 minutes of free time for your first shave.
• In the future, as you sharpen the skill of shaving with such a razor, the procedure time will be significantly reduced.
• It is advisable to make sure that you are not suddenly disturbed so as not to accidentally cut yourself.

How to shave with a shawl: technique

So it's time to shave for the first time with your new razor, and here are some guidelines for basic technique. We hope you've taken advantage of all of our tips for getting ready to shave.

First, the first time you are likely to cut yourself. The cut will probably not be painful, as a very sharp blade will be used. But to be prepared for this development of events and prevent bleeding, stock up on one of the universal remedies for cuts: gel or classic alum. Both remedies will help not only stop the bleeding in a few seconds, but also speed up the healing of the cut.

So, your lather is ready and applied to your face - start shaving with your sideburns. Hold the shaver very lightly at an angle of about 30 ° to your skin. The larger the angle, the greater the chance of cutting yourself.

Avoid squeezing the razor with your fingers. The razor should shave loosely. Start from the top, going down in smooth, light movements. The cheeks are the lightest part as this area of \u200b\u200bthe face is flat and relatively large in area compared to other parts. Follow the cheek down to the chin.

Be careful when shaving the area above the upper lip, as the hair is particularly coarse here. You need to shave with small, light strokes from top to bottom. Shaving against hair growth here can cut your nose. The area under the lower lip is also shaved very carefully and without sudden movements, so as not to cut the lip.

The area from the lower part of the chin down the neck is shaved in turn on both sides of the Adam's apple, starting from the chin. The razor is guided from top to bottom, on the left side of the Adam's apple. On the Adam's apple itself, especially if it protrudes strongly, it is necessary to shave as gently as possible, pulling the skin away from it. The hair on the lower edge of the jaw is shaved from the chin towards the ear, pulling the skin away.

Very often the hair in the lower part of the neck grows upwards. In such cases, shave from top to bottom until the hair is reversed and the rest of the neck is shaved from bottom to top.

Many people prefer a two-pass shave. This means that after you shave your face for the first time, the foam is reapplied and you shave again. The second pass will pass more "cheerfully", but you will definitely get rid of the remaining hair, if one time was not enough for this. This method is especially good if you have thick stubble or haven't shaved for several days.

Helps with shaving and skin tightening, as taut skin is easier to shave. The area around the mouth is perhaps the hardest to shave, as the chance of cutting yourself is quite high. Be patient, pull lightly on your skin before each stroke, and move in small strokes, gently shaving off the chin stubble and mustache. Likewise, and with the same care, you need to shave off your throat hair.

Shaving with a shave: how to avoid cuts and irritation

Shaving irritation often manifests as mild redness (pimples) on the throat or cheeks. They look terrible, but they feel even worse and bring only suffering with their itching for several days.

They can also appear when shaving with a shawl. If you, moreover, are a happy owner of sensitive skin, we advise you to study dedicated to this issue. For everyone else, there are some tips for avoiding the problem.

Good preparation is the key to success.

• Make sure the shaver is clean before shaving. Remember to rinse it well under hot water after every shave.
• Use a hot towel, shower or wash with hot water before each shave.
• Use pre-shaving products (creams or oils).
• Avoid shaving in the shower to avoid accidentally cutting yourself.

Change blades in time. Dull blades are one of the main causes of skin irritation.

Use a clean towel and good aftershave.

• Use a separate, clean towel for your face to avoid getting bacteria from the towels, such as your hands or body, into the pores you have left after shaving.
• After you've washed your face with cool water and dried your face with a towel, use a good aftershave, depending on your skin type.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that shawls were invented as a tool with replaceable blades for each customer for adjusting haircuts in barbers, these razors are now quite popular for personal shaving.

• They will be a great alternative for those men who would like to try a traditional hazardous shave but don't want to mess around with trimming and sharpening a classic razor.
• The use of a shawl is recommended for those who constantly experience irritation when shaving with modern three- or five-blade razors.
• And also for those who want to save on shaving consumables without compromising quality, because replacement blades cost a penny compared to cartridges.
• Shavets are convenient for travel due to their lightness, compactness and no need to take a strap with you for straightening (if you use a classic straight razor).

Remember: it will take some time and accuracy to learn how to use the shavetok, as well as the usual "fear". But the result will definitely meet expectations and costs, because shaving will be enjoyable.

Many representatives of the stronger sex use special shaving machines. Such devices are easy to use. It is almost impossible to injure yourself with a razor. Other men choose electric cars for themselves. Such devices shave off the stubble without affecting the top layer of the skin. At the same time, many men managed to appreciate the merits of such a device as a straight razor.

What is a straight razor?

Straight razors are made up of the following elements:

• directly the blade;
• the handle into which the blade enters.

Basic parts of a straight razor

Straight razors usually come with replaceable sharp blades. A man will also need the following accessories:

• bristle shaving brush;
• stone for sharpening the blade;
• special belt. This element is necessary to correct the shape of the edge of the product;
• shaving cream;
• container for a brush.

In addition, a man using a straight razor will need a towel and a small bowl of boiled hot water.

Straight razors are quite expensive. But when choosing a product, it is necessary to focus, first of all, not on the cost of the device. A beginner should pay attention to the following parameters:

• head shape;
• razor width;
• the material from which the straight razors are made.

It is recommended to purchase devices with replaceable practical blades, on the surface of which there are no pretentious patterns. Over time, such a product will lose its original attractiveness. If the danger becomes stained due to oxidation, the use of abrasive products will be required. As a result, the gilded pattern on the product will fade, and the blade will look untidy. The best option is a fear with an engraving and a stamp or a neat gilded pattern.

It is worth paying attention to the material of the handle. Straight razors with a plastic handle are the cheapest. There are also exclusive grips made from the following materials:

• horns;
• wood;
• bones.

The most expensive and unusual is the handle of the Dovo Mammut product. The handle of the device is made of mammoth ivory.

Varieties of such razors

High-quality fear is quite expensive (about 20 thousand rubles). A cheap fake from the original can be distinguished by the following features:

• low-quality fears are decorated with a drawing made using ordinary paint. Such an image is quickly erased upon contact with water, touching fingers;
• there is no logo on the counterfeit straight razor blade
• the drawing on the canvas of the product looks slightly curved in the plane;
• there is a supply (space from sharpening) in the area of \u200b\u200bthe tip, which is equipped with a straight blade. There is no such space in the area of \u200b\u200bthe back of the product.

Blade width

The blade of the appliance should be the optimum width for a beginner (5/8 to 6/8 "). If the blade is wider, shaving becomes less agile. When using a product with replaceable narrow blades, it is more difficult to maintain the correct shaving angle.

Shaver Width Ratio

Blade concavity

How to choose a quality safety razor for such a parameter as concavity? There are several types of concavity:

• 1/1 (full);

A striking example of a product with a 1/1 concavity is the Dovo Bergischer Lowe razor, which is included in the rating of dangerous razors. A newbie should purchase razors with replaceable fully concave blades.

Blade steel

How to choose the right product for the type of steel? In most cases, devices are made from carbon steel or stainless steel. The best expensive straight razors are made from Damascus steel. Similar items are manufactured by Boker.

A dangerous product made of Damascus steel should be bought only if a man is 100% sure of the quality of the product. Otherwise, you can only get an expensive "souvenir" for memory, which is impossible to shave.

Rating of the best dangerous razors

How do I use a straight razor?

The cautious shaving technique is quite simple:

1. First, the face is lathered with a shaving brush with a brush. In parallel, the fear is placed in a glass filled with warm water.
2. The wide part of the straight razor is pressed against the face.
3. The fear is raised at an angle of 40 degrees.
4. The straight razor is moved in the direction of hair growth. In this case, the movements should be light and smooth. Do not press on the skin. Otherwise, cuts may remain on the face.

The guard is made of steel. If not properly cared for, the instrument can rust. After shaving, it is recommended to wipe the fear with a napkin.

It is recommended to sharpen the fear regularly. A small block can be used for this purpose. The sharpener is pre-moistened with water. After that, they smoothly move along the stone, gently holding the blade.

Sharpening fears at home is also performed with sandpaper. But this sharpening method should not be used if the straight razor is made of hardened steel.

Simple jeans are also used to care for caution. In this case, the process of sharpening the product looks like this:

1. The trousers are turned inside out and spread out on a flat surface.
2. Place a small block under the fabric.
3. The fear is polished on the trousers (alternately in one direction or the other).

Corrections are made regularly. It represents the alignment of the edges of the fear. For straightening, use a special belt and fabric made of linen. Ideally, the straightening strap should be wider than the bead length.

Optional accessories

• synthetics;
• boar bristles;
• badger fur.

Boar-bristled brushes prevent ingrown hairs. They prevent the onset of the inflammatory process. Boar bristle brush strokes are not recommended for men with sensitive skin. Coarse hairs on the wrist can injure the face, resulting in discomfort. For men with sensitive skin, it is recommended to use shaving brushes from Balea men Professional Rasierpinsel. The products of this company are distinguished by increased softness. These shaving brushes are ideal for sensitive skin.

The optimal length of the shaving brush (from the base to the tips) is about 10 cm. Large products are difficult to use. It is difficult to apply lather to small areas of the face with these brush strokes.

When choosing a shaving brush, attention is also paid to such a criterion as the density of the knot. The knot density is understood as the amount of pile used in the manufacture of the brush.

A shaving brush with a synthetic bristle brush is quite cheap. It does not require as much care as products with natural brushes.

A man needs to follow certain recommendations for caring for a shaving brush:

• before the first use, the product is immersed in a warm soapy solution for 2-3 minutes;
• before removing facial hair, the pile of the shaving brush is immersed in warm water. In this case, it will become softer;
• after shaving, the shaving brush is placed on a special support with the pile down. The product should not be stored in a closed space, it should be allowed to dry;
• to clean the lint, the brush does not use chemical agents.

Straight razor shaving has both pros and cons. When using the device, the corresponding recommendations must be followed.

I don’t remember what exactly prompted me to become interested in this topic ... A small study on the Web showed that straight razors still have many supporters and enthusiasts, both abroad and in Russia. If so, then there is something in it ... In short, I wanted to try.

What is it about

A straight razor is a very sharp blade (typically of high carbon steel) that folds like a jackknife into a handle made of plastic, wood, bone, or other material. I believe that every Russian has at least once seen what it is in a movie. Alas, this type of razor usually evokes in memory not the most peaceful associations ... Well, there, the Hollywood mad barber Sweeney Todd performed by Johnny Depp or our Kisa Vorobyaninov from "The Twelve Chairs" (who stabbed Ostap Bender with a straight razor). In the best case - D'Artanyan from the Soviet "Three Musketeers" shaving the head of the enemy.

However, in fact, basically this device was still used for its intended purpose - they removed facial hair, and until the beginning of the 20th century there were no alternatives to a straight razor for this purpose. Then the so-called "safety razors" began to appear - the progenitors of modern "machine tools" - and gradually the straight razors turned from a mandatory companion of men into a kind of exotic.

What's the catch

So what is the secret meaning of straight razor shaving when you can get your way with a modern razor? Obviously, as in many other hobbies, everyone has their own. I would outline the following:

1. Straight razor shaving is an interesting meditative process that needs to be done slowly, enjoying it, being aware of every movement.

2. There is some strange (probably a little psychopathic) drive from the understanding that you shave with a tool that can really easily cut off your head.

3. It is "old school". On the one hand, I love all sorts of high tech gadgets. On the other hand, there is something intangibly attractive in feeling like a part of history, in touching the world of the century before last.

4. Straight razors, especially antique ones (and I shave just like that, because the type that I like the most has not been produced for 150 years) - in a sense, works of art. And there is a certain joy in holding and using such an object.

5. There are at least two other hobbies around razors. Someone collects dangerous razors, and simply shaves from time to time with exhibits of their collection. Someone is fond of the restoration of antique razors: also an interesting topic, perhaps - later I will write a post about it.

6. There is an opinion (I suspect, for obvious reasons, mainly promoted by sellers of dangerous razors) that shaving with a straight razor saves on machines. On the one hand, this is true. Theoretically, you can get your way with one straight razor all your life and pass it on to your son (they did it before). On the other hand - given the modern price tag for good razors, belts, etc., as well as the comparative cheapness of modern machines (even top models) - the savings are somehow dubious.

7. I was surprised to find that for some reason some girls, seemingly mentally healthy, are being led on the topic of a man shaving with a straight razor. For me this "bonus" has no value, but for someone, I suppose, it may be interesting ...

Who is contraindicated

Toropygam, persons with tremors in their hands.

What not to expect

That the first time everything will turn out beautifully. It is believed that learning to shave with a straight razor can be more or less fluent after about six months of regular shaving. It is better to shave the first time before the weekend, because at least small cuts during the first shave, I just guarantee, and not everyone is acceptable to show up at work with a striped face.

Stereotypes are true and false

Stereotype 1. Straight razors are dangerous by definition

In general, yes. I would not leave such a razor within the reach of children or persons with an unstable psyche.

Stereotype 2. For some reason, a straight razor is thought to shave cleaner.

Again, there is a suspicion that this opinion is instilled by sellers of dangerous razors. In my personal subjective opinion, Gillette eats his bread for a reason. At least in several years of shaving with a straight razor, I have not learned to come close to the smoothness of a good razor with a fresh cartridge. Although it is possible, I have everything ahead.

Stereotype 3. A straight razor is a cold weapon with all the ensuing consequences

This is not so, according to our legislation, it is not a cold weapon. It is clear that it is better not to take it in hand luggage on the plane, but in luggage, for example, razors fly without any problems (I always take them with me on business trips).

Stereotype 4. Shaving with a straight razor is very difficult

Yes and no. Indeed, a certain skill is required, which takes longer to develop than the skill of shaving with a machine. But this is not nuclear physics, and there is nothing super complicated here.

Stereotype 5. Straight razor shaving requires tons of accessories

Yes and no. On the one hand, you can get by with a razor itself, a shaving brush (a brush for applying soap to the face) and a strap for straightening the razor. On the other hand, people rarely shave with a straight razor for reasons of economy and minimalism. Rather, it is a hedonistic thing, and here all sorts of amenities, such as an expensive badger wool shaving brush, fragrant special shaving soap and other small pleasures, provide additional pleasure.

What is needed for this (equipment, etc.)

First, you need your own razor. If we are talking about new razors, then only 2 companies are engaged in industrial production today - DOVO in Germany and Thiers-Issard in France. Issue price - from 2500 rubles (if you buy in Russia). There are small handicraft manufacturers that make razors to order or in small batches - for example, Wacker in Germany, Mastro Livi in \u200b\u200bItaly, Robert Williams in the States, and others. There, the price tag starts at about $ 500 per razor.

The so-called "kamisori" - Japanese straight razors stand apart in the world of straight razors. Unlike European ones, they are not foldable. The most famous modern manufacturer of Japanese razors is Iwasaki. There are other masters as well.

On molotok.ru and ebay.com quite a lot of antique razors are sold, in varying degrees of wear and tear and recoverability. There are quite a few offers of refurbished razors. Obviously, it's quite easy to run into full rubbish (for example, my very first razor, which I bought with a hammer, turned out to be full of rubbish). Therefore, it is probably better to start your career in the world of straight razors with new ones.

Which razors are better - everyone decides for himself. For example, I tried many different ones and came to the conclusion that old English razors from Sheffield suit me and my stiff stubble best of all, with a special shape - "wedge", "with a smile" (what it is, you can also find out on the resources below ).

Second commitment the most important piece of equipment is the strap for straightening the razor. There are also many different types of them, each with its own nuances. I will not describe them here - if you are interested, you will find all the necessary information on the resources listed below.

The third required element is a shaving brush. The straight razor shaves poorly on foam from spray cans (most likely, this is due to its relatively low humidity). Therefore, you need a shaving brush plus shaving cream or soap (regular soap, by the way, will also work). On the shaving strokes, too, the run is great, but oddly enough, of all that I have tried, I liked the shaving brush from "Auchan" for 36 rubles the most.

Everything else is optional, but adds to the enjoyment of the process.

Issue price (budget)

In principle, shaving with a straight razor is not the cheapest topic: as I wrote above, new razors cost from about 2,500 rubles, a strap for dressing is also somewhere from 2,000 rubles. There is no upper threshold. A custom made razor can easily cost tens of thousands of rubles.

What it takes to take the first step

"Splurge" on a straight razor and try to shave it. There is an insidious nuance - new factory razors are unsharpened. Sharpening yourself is quite difficult - you need several special stones of different grain sizes, plus the process is quite tricky. Ordinary knife and scissor sharpeners do not know how to sharpen razors; they need a specialist in dangerous razors. If you can't find one in your city, you can usually easily agree to send your razor by mail for sharpening. In some online stores, for a fee (usually up to 500 rubles), you can order already sharpened razors.

There is a lot of information in Russian here:

http://www.britva.ru/ - an enthusiast in Moscow, many articles, there is a store

http://oldrazor.ru/ - an enthusiast in Novosibirsk, a lot of well-structured information (though a little subjective, in my opinion), a small store

http://britvasolingen.ru/ - store in Moscow, there are few articles

If you are friends with English, then just a lot of information can be found here: http://www.straightrazorplace.com/ - this is the main resource on the topic of razors on the English-speaking Internet.

The straight razor shaves better than any T-bar or any other shaving attachment. This statement has not been refuted for more than 100 years, since the invention of the safe machine, by our American friend in 1901. By the 80s of the 20th century, his hellish invention had practically destroyed the entire razor industry (King did you turn over?). But, during this time, no one has been able to create a single shaving device more effective than a straight razor. Human laziness is the main driver of technological progress and profit. I am pleased to note the desire of many men to return to the origins of proper shaving. An old straight razor is perfect.

Why is buying an expensive straight razor justified?

1. Over the past five years (2018), the price tag for old straight razors has quadrupled, taking into account the fall of the ruble. There are fewer and fewer antique razors every day, they will not be cheaper. This is a smart investment in an old, antique item that will honestly last more than a dozen years if used correctly.
2. Straight razor shaving is a valuable, relaxing, meditation ritual. This is a completely different feeling, in contrast to the sensations that the most advanced machines give you. The price tag of the machines is very immodest + the constant cost of good blades, which are not at all cheap, and their quality falls inexorably. Replacing consumables, keeping on a short leash, business ...

Good, expensive, the machine shaves not badly, quickly, but the feeling that something is missing is obvious. There is not enough cleanliness of shaving, fetish, ritual ... Grabbed - shaved - ran away ... well, probably, if you do not pay attention to those pleasant little things that make up our whole fast life. A good old straight razor, when sharpened correctly, shaves much more comfortably and cleaner, with proper use for about a year without regrinding.

I do not recommend buying modern new razors, why? - .

I do not recommend buying antique straight razors, without the subsequent possibility of presenting claims to the seller. Perhaps the seller will turn out to be a decent person and a good specialist. Otherwise, you will have a pencil sharpening tool that costs 10-30 thousand. The desire to save money when buying an expensive razor at auctions will most likely not meet your expectations. The cost of repairing a purchased razor will surprise you. There are no good, high-quality sharpened razors at auctions - you can check, I have not met.

What to look for when choosing a straight razor?

On the form, the manufacturer? What's the best straight razor, big wide blade or small narrow blade? There is no definite answer, this is a matter of preference.

Proponents of wide, heavy straight razors believe that larger razors shave better with more weight. This is a controversial conclusion because the pressure of the razor on the hair is completely controlled by the hand, and when comparing a heavy blade to a light blade, the mechanism of hair cutting is not considered.

When cutting or chopping a branch on a solid foundation, the weight of the tool will of course matter. But in the case when the branch is flexible, in our case it is a hair, and it has one anchorage point, the weight of the tool will not only matter, but it can create certain difficulties, depending on the delicacy of the work performed: the accuracy of movements will deteriorate, control over pressure. In this case, the decisive advantage in choosing a tool will be the sharpness of the razor blade.

When using narrow razors, it will be more difficult for the beginner to control the correct angle of the blade to the skin. With enough experience, a shaver with a shallow blade is preferred in my experience.

Let's imagine a scythe or a sickle - how does the mowing take place? The same thing happens with the CORRECT shave. The meaning is the same: progressively - the undercutting motion of the blade, cutting off grass, wheat ... bristles, the so-called "oblique cut".

Try cutting the bread by pressing straight down on the blade ... a very well sharpened knife will do this. And if you do a pull with a blade, forward or backward? There is a difference? Do you cut food with a knife by pressing from the bottom up? No. The correct shaving process is the same. 2 - 3 cm blade passage.

The cutting edge of a straight razor is a huge amount of tiny micro teeth in nanometers. They are formed by the risks of the abrasive with which the blade is sharpened.

What happens if a well-sharpened razor blade is placed with the cutting edge on the skin (not on your own!) And does not press hard on it? - nothing. And if you slightly stretch the blade forward or backward? - a cut is formed immediately. This is because many micro teeth begin to act on each point of the cut surface. The smaller these teeth, the less force will have to be applied when cutting and the less movement of the blade will be required.

T-shaped machine chops hair,like an ax, straight razor cuts off hairwith the correct shaving technique. At the same time, a straight razor cuts off the hair below the skin level, the hair is “squeezed out”. Along the way, dead cells of the upper layer of the skin (epidermis) are removed and . A very useful procedure for the skin and very expensive if you go to the Moscow SPA salon. The skin begins to "breathe", with each shave you rejuvenate your skin.

The blade of the machine is hidden in the frame. When the T-bar moves, its frame presses the hair against the skin, and the blade cuts off the hair in the place where it can reach, depending on the speed and pressure. As a result, "hemp" remains, by the evening you again feel a specific lack of shaving. After shaving with a straight razor, this sensation occurs twice as late.

I will put the quality of its sharpening, correct sharpness... A hair cut test is a very delicate process and there are many reasons not to trust it. Only a very good specialist with a lot of practice will be able to assess the quality of the razor cut through the hair. So shave and rate the razor for the comfort of shaving, video

First when choosing a straight razorI will supply the quality of the steel it is made of. It is the quality of the steel that determines the comfortable sharpness to which you can sharpen and how long the RK of this razor will be able to maintain this sharpness.

This is not a mistake, one is not possible without the other.A good razor with poor sharpening will shave poorly. Not a very good razor, with good sharpening, will shave well, but not for long. A good razor, with good sharpening, it will shave perfectly and for a long time.

There is a common misconception of many users when trying to compare razors by country of origin: England - France - Japan - Germany - Sweden. Arguments that English straight razors are the standard of quality, while French razors are inferior to them in shaving comfort, or vice versa, is a complete delusion. English, French and other razors, having the same blade shape and made of similar, high-quality steel, will shave in a similar way, a beginner will hardly feel the difference. The most important condition for an objective comparison of different razors is the same sharpening quality. When the razor was sharpened by the same hand, on the same abrasives, with the same technique. BLADE SHAPE - STEEL - SHARPENING - these are the components of your sensations when shaving with a straight razor. It is not at all correct to compare the shape of hollow ground blades and a wedge, these are completely different razors in terms of shaving comfort, sensations. Wedge is the ideal.

I will not argue, there are razors with a radius selection (Hollow Grоund), which shave perfectly, but as a rule, This is an exception. Hollows crackle, crackle, for this they were nicknamed "singing razors", someone likes it. Hollows are great for not thick and not stiff stubble, now the questions will begin, what is stiff / not stiff stubble, ... try it, I'm gone.

As for sharpening, I will explain with a simple example. Among other razors, I have long used the pre-war (CCW) C. Friedr. ERN. I liked this razor at the subconscious level, some kind of positive energy emanated from it. The comfort of shaving that she gave me did not suit me for a long time. Many times I reworked her finishing sharpening, trying to find for her “her finishing stone”. The razor shaved well, but the thought never left me that she could give more. And it happened - freshly bought slate ****** opened this razor. Without going into details, I will note the meaning of what was written: an individual user, having a long-term experience of shaving with a specific razor, was quite surprised by the changed shaving comfort after changing the razor sharpening conditions. Each shaver requires a different approach. Everything here is very individual, do not rush to draw conclusions. Try, feel, evaluate.

Fatal error:most users appreciate the shaver in the condition in which it came into their hands. Many naively believe in the seller's promises that the razor is well sharpened.99% of the razors that I came across from auctions as “ready for use” were not sharpened. Few of the sellers keep their promises about the quality of the razor and its sharpening, often sellers have no idea at all. They sell straight razors without knowing at all what they are selling. “The razor is very sharp - the paper cuts - very good” - like that. They have never shaved with a straight razor, but at the same time, they are trying to give some smart recommendations ... amazing people. Their cspruce - put you in a razor. If you come to your senses and try to get your money back, most likely you will receive an answer that you personally ruined the razor - goodbye.

I do not advise buying the new DOVO, BOKER, WACKER, and even more so the recently appeared MOUHLE (2018), made by someone who is not clear, like other new-made self-propelled razors, the quality of these razors often does not meet the definition of a “straight razor”. Initially there will be problems with cutting edge repair and razor sharpening. There is a possibility that a good specialist will not be able to prepare your new razor for comfortable use. There will be no joy from the purchase. I see a continuous serial marriage on the market. If you are a stubborn Indian, try it. ... If you want to make a present for yourself or someone and do not understand the topic of straight razors, you can be very disappointing to the new owner of the razor. New razors out of the box are sold not sharpened, this has always been the case, with the exception of very expensive Japanese. Some of the new-made razors cannot be properly prepared for use - they are factory corpses.

What should be ? This is a matter of preferences, the comfort of shaving does not depend on the shape of the RK. There are straight edge razorsthere are razors having some kind of “blade smile”. The “smile of the blade” is an arc centered behind the back. Exists and dangerous razors. These razors are rather collectible, I don't see any practicality in their form. The concept " about"Is a defect in the blade. This is an arc whose center is in front of the working edge. This defect occurs when improper sharpening or crooked blade restoration. Sharpening a reverse smile razor without repairing the cutting edge is very difficult.

greatly affects the comfort of shaving. Wedges work best for stiff and thick bristles... A true wedge is a non-isosceles triangle blade - there are very few such razors. Other razors, called “wedges,” have some radius cuts - near wadge (almost wedge).A wedge (almost a wedge) is the perfect shaving solution. Old wedges are the benchmark for shaving comfort. Crafted from premium steel, each razor was hand forged until the late 19th century. In the 20th century, stamped hollow ground began to be produced everywhere, razors lost their uniqueness.

Straight Razor Blade Size FOR BEGINNERS

For beginners, a size in the range from 5/8 to 13/16 inches will be convenient, this is 15 to 22 mm. A narrow blade, like a wide one, will make it harder for a beginner to shave because of the control over the angle of the blade to the skin.

The shape of the blade head can be chosen round for a start, butthis is not a definitive advice. A blade with a straight head, at first, may cause subconscious fears until confident motor skills are developed. If you follow the basic rules that I recommend, this will not happen, I always make a microradius at the very tip of the blade. Straight-head straight-head razors are more convenient for shaving the mustache and temples.

In general, a sharp razor with which you are comfortable is good.

TB - Safety (IMPORTANT)

Be very careful with a sharpened razor. Always hold an open razor just like a snake by the neck, only in this case it will not bite you. Picked up a straight razor - shave. Any other operation with the razor will result in either injury or damage. For example, if you cut a sheet of A4 paper with a sharpened razor, this razor will no longer shave without regrinding.

Quite unexpectedly, razors have turned from a utilitarian item for a man's travel bag into super-technological examples of space technology. The modern razor not only fulfills its intended purpose, but also has completely incomprehensible properties. The interface of some allows you to share the shaving process on social networks - hey friends, I shaved! Don't get us wrong: we are not at all against technological solutions. It's just that some things are better done in a slightly different way. With this simple thought in mind, we've put together some of the world's best straight razors for you.

Utopia Care Stainless Steel Barber Razor

pros: does not require sharpening
Minuses: disposable blades

Good bought: A very, very good razor can be a really good investment. This is unlikely to be preferred by a passionate supporter of dangerous shaving in his travel bag, but she is just right for a beginner. Utopia Care has no complaints, fits comfortably in the hand and looks great. In addition, its operation does not require any effort at all. Even the blade does not need to be sharpened: replaceable ones are used here.

Dovo Silver Shavette Satin Finish

pros: ideal for carrying
Minuses: overly light grip

Traveler's Choice: DOVO is a firm with a name. For a hundred years, the guys have been making the best straight razors in Europe, specializing only in them. One can imagine how the masters managed to understand the matter during all this time. The razor frame is made in Germany and the stainless steel body is very light. Of course, it is not destined to become a family heirloom of the Silver Shavette, but as a travel companion - that's it.

Feather SS

pros: easy blade replacement
Minuses: awkward

Homework: Standard straight razors are foldable to keep your hands free of the blade while transporting the tool. But SS masters rely on stationary work, which makes Feather SS the choice of a professional barber. The grip filled with resin lies in the hand like a glove and will not slip out of the palm of your hand, even if you decide to defeat an entire battalion of enemies alone.

Boker king cutter

pros: very, very sharp blade requiring careful maintenance
Minuses: minimalistic style

German hit: The Cutter manufactory is famous in the circles of masters and aesthetes of the genre - almost every work becomes a real hit. The Boker King Cutter cannot be called an exception. The blade is made of high quality carbon steel. The proprietary alloy contains silver impurities. The handle can be ordered in a variety of styles, from tortoiseshell to mammoth bone. However, the latter option will cost you a fortune, but what you can't do for the sake of style.

Thiers-Issard Eagle

pros: individual solution
Minuses: cost!

Exclusive work: A young man can try to get an entry-level straight razor to see if he likes this style. A man can buy a more serious tool just to be able to diversify the shaving process. But only an aesthetic gentleman can throw as much money on a straight razor as a high-quality Thiers-Issard Eagle. The founder of the company began learning how to make razors at the age of 10 and spent his whole life doing this. There are simply no two identical Thiers-Issard Eagle razors in the world - the master customizes each work according to the client's requests. The cost starts at $ 500.