22.09.2020

What are ceramides for hair. Ceramides in cosmetics. What does ceramide deficiency lead to?

Liposomes are actively used in cosmetics. Often they include ceramides... And what are these connections?
Our skin is made up of several layers. Topmost - epidermis thickness 75 -150 microns. Its main function is to protect against mechanical damage, from the penetration of foreign substances, viruses, bacteria. Moreover, it limits the evaporation of water from the surface of the skin. The epidermis is also multi-layered. The cells of the lower layer divide, and their descendants, who do not have enough space there, are squeezed up and gradually move to the surface.

The function of these cells is to protect the delicate inner content of a person with their dead bodies. Moving to the upper layers of the skin, they degrade: they lose water, their DNA breaks down. The upper layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is the layers of dead, dehydrated cells. It constantly exfoliates - the period of its renewal for normal skin is 20 -90 days. So, before the death of the stratum corneum cells synthesize special lipids, which then cement their corpses into a kind of brickwork. Like other membrane lipids, they have hydrophobic "legs", which in Russian have been called ceramides for several decades. These are the very "ceramides", about which we are continuously repeated from the screen. "Hydroxyceramides", which are also mentioned in the advertisement, are, as you can guess now, all the same ceramides with an extra hydroxyl group. Root "cer"comes from Latin "cerebrum"- the brain, because they were first isolated from the brain. And imposed on us "ceramides"-simply incorrect transcription of the word "ceramide".
Ie. Ceramides / ceramides are substances of natural origin, solid or wax-like substances of a lipid nature (sphingolipids), which together with cholesterol and fatty acids form the lipid barrier layer of the skin. In case of damage to the surface layer of the skin, ceramides fill the gaps formed as a result of washout, reduce skin permeability, reduce water loss and improve the elasticity of the epidermis.

Ceramides belong to the class of sphingolipids. These are complex lipids, consisting of several blocks - fatty alcohol sphingosine or phytosphingosine (forms a hydrophilic "head") and one fatty acid (lipophilic "tail").
Among ceramides long-chain ceramides of the 1st type, which include linoleic acid, are especially distinguished. These ceramides pierce adjacent lipid layers and bind them into a single structure. With a lack of linolenic acid, synthesis suffers ceramides 1, respectively, the lipid layer of the stratum corneum loses its integrity and disintegrates. The consequence of this is dryness of the skin and other symptoms associated with it (peeling, increased sensitivity, irritation, etc.).
Recovery of epidermal lipids. These components ensure the connection of epidermal cells with each other. If we compare the skin with a brick wall, then the cells of the epidermis will play the role of bricks, and epidermal lipids will play the role of matrix, cement. In reality, epidermal lipids (primarily ceramides, or ceramides) are very fragile substances, but they perform important functions: they ensure the resistance of the epidermis to the penetration of foreign microorganisms, and also participate in the effective moisturizing of the skin. To support the functions of epidermal lipids, their analogs (for example, rice ceramides) are introduced into cosmetics.

Ceramide treatment for acne
To treat and eliminate signs of acne, a fairly wide range of drugs is used, modern developments have made it possible to obtain highly effective components for the treatment of acne - ceramides. Treatment of acne with ceramides allows you to eliminate the pathological process in the skin by restoring the structure of the epidermal barrier, normalizing the chemical composition of epidermal lipids.
With insufficient synthesis of ceramides in the stratum corneum, areas completely devoid of the lipid matrix appear, the stratum corneum thickens and its permeability increases, while skin dryness, peeling, itching occur. Violation of the skin barrier leads to a significant deterioration in the condition and appearance of the skin. Microorganisms and substances that have not previously penetrated the skin (for example, some chemical ingredients of cosmetics) can penetrate through the broken barrier. This can cause skin infections and allergic reactions, which make acne worse. In addition, damage to the lipid barrier causes dehydration of the skin, while the skin loses its elasticity, wrinkles appear.

Plant ceramides
Vegetable ceramides - are completely natural and of plant origin, extracted from rice. Ceramides are characterized by the ability to fill physiological gaps between epidermal cells, i.e. improving the quality of the stratum corneum. Complex structure ceramides in its origin it possesses a lipid-structural characteristic that allows the scaly layers to "cement" intercellularly. Complex rice ceramides is a mixture of sphingolipids (ceramides) and phospholipids. Ceramides play an important role in the structure and functioning of the stratum corneum. They are characterized by the ability to fill the physiological gaps between the cells of the epidermis, thus improving the quality of the stratum corneum.
Production method: extracted with ethanol from rice bran and rice germ Oryza sativa Linne (Gramineae). Contains at least 3.0% glycosphingolipids.
Cosmetic application nenie :
The barrier function is very important: it allows you to deal with the daily aggressive influence of the environment, temperature differences, pollution, solar radiation and physical and chemical influences. Swallowing fast ceramides dissolve in the stratum corneum and fill the intercellular space. They allow you to restore the stratum corneum with the best qualities and protect the body. This property is even more important because this intercellular cementing is eliminated by daily washing.

Ceramides are the main component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum (40%). They are involved in such important biological processes as:
* Regulation of transepidermal water loss.
* Maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum and protect the skin.
* Restoration of the barrier functions of the skin.
Act:
* Regulate transepidermal water flow, limiting water evaporation, that is, maintaining the moisture balance in skin cells
* Provide intermolecular communication of the outer epidermal layer, i.e. protecting the skin
* Allows to fight the risk of wrinkles, helps in the treatment of photoaging
* Moisturize skin (clinically proven effective)
* Significantly increase the level of moisture in the stratum corneum
* Strengthen the barrier function of the skin
* Activate the growth of fibroblasts
* Have a whitening effect and inhibit the production of melanin and tyrosinase
* Even out complexion
* Prevents hair loss, makes them stronger and healthier.
Care and recovery in los:
- ceramides restore the keratin layer along the entire length;
- have a softening and moisturizing effect on the scalp;
- ceramides moisturize and nourish hair;
- increase hair density and stimulate hair growth;
- facilitate care and styling after dyeing and perm.
Areas of use:
- Cosmetic products to moisturize the skin
- Special products for dry skin
- Anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products
- Face care (creams, lotions, milk, cream, etc.)
- Body care (body lotions, body creams, etc.)
- Cleansing cosmetics (soap, etc.)
- Decorative cosmetics (lipstick, powder, etc.)

In cosmetic stores today there are a huge number of different products, the action of which is known to a few girls and women. Various flasks and bottles with multi-colored liquids can bewilder even the most experienced beauty who visits beauty salons and spa treatments. To understand even better the cosmetics for skin care, let's talk about ceramides. It is a biologically active substance based on fatty acids. This cosmetic product was created so that every girl and woman could find the skin of her dreams. The composition of ceramides is close to the composition of fats in the human body, so such care will be safe even for those girls and women who suffer from allergic reactions.

Ceramides - these are biological extracts from animal tissue, therefore, due to the complexity of creating such a cosmetic product, its cost simply cannot be low. Of course, today there are a lot of different synthetic substitutes, but their effect cannot be compared with the natural original. In order not to be mistaken in choosing the cosmetic product you need, always carefully study the composition. Ceramides can be bought in many beauty stores, but go for proven brands with lots of good reviews.

The main indications for the use of ceramides in daily care.
1. Sensitive skin... Such skin needs an extra protective barrier to help reduce redness and irritation. Regular use of ceramides will help you soothe your skin and make it soft and tender.

2. Skin prone to flaking and dryness... If you are familiar with the feeling of tightness and dryness, then you just need to purchase ceramides for regular care. Also, this cosmetic product will be an excellent helper during severe frosts and sunbathing. Experts recommend taking a jar of this excellent care product with you on vacation.

3. Care for the delicate skin around the eyes... This area is characterized by the absence of sebaceous glands, which leads to premature aging and wilting of the skin. This means that you need to use ceramides daily to protect yourself from wrinkles and puffiness. Ceramides will be an excellent substitute for both day and night cream for the area around the eyes. Try to take a course of ceramides at least once a year to prevent skin aging.

4. Nutrition and saturation of the skin with useful substances... If you feel discomfort after washing your face, suffer from excessive oily skin, or have been struggling with pallor and lethargy for a long time, then you just need to include ceramides in your care. They perfectly restore problem skin, normalize the sebaceous glands and help get rid of flabbiness.

5. Aged skin... Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that if you are already faced with the problem of wrinkles, a distorted face oval and sagging areas of the skin, then you need more effective cosmetics. Here, a simple moisturizer may no longer help you, because you need to deal with the existing problem, and not direct your efforts to prevention. Ceramides are great for aging skin, and after a few treatments you will notice how the skin is smoother and tighter.

6. Ceramides as an ingredient in masks... Already from youth, it is necessary to apply various face masks in order to face the first signs of aging as late as possible. If you add one ceramide capsule to your favorite mask for skin care, then its effect will increase many times.

As you can see, ceramides are great for caring for various skin types and allow you to fight various problems. Always start from personal feelings in order to choose a cosmetic product that will best suit your skin type. When we are young, our skin is quite smooth and firm due to the fact that fluid and collagen protect it from the signs of aging. With age, this barrier loses its strength, and moisture begins to evaporate much stronger, dryness appears and, as a result, wrinkles. Ceramides are an artificial barrier to maintain youthful and beautiful skin. If you want to always look perfect, regardless of age, then this cosmetic product will perfectly protect you from various skin problems.

What are the destructive factors of our skin?
- Sun rays and solarium
- Wind and frost during the cold season
- Bad habits

Aggressive effects of tap water
- Improper daily care
- Eating unhealthy foods

In this case, you need to create effective protective barrierwhich will allow you to keep your skin youthful and firm. You can simply cut open the ceramide capsule and apply with light patting movements all over your face, or you can add this product to your mask. It all depends on your preferences and how your skin reacts to a particular skincare routine. We offer you several options for masks with ceramides for the beauty and youth of your skin.

Mask for dry skin
- A tablespoon of natural homemade sour cream
- 3 drops of olive oil
- A teaspoon of honey
- 1 capsule of ceramides.
- Wooden spatula

Mix all ingredients thoroughly and heat in a water bath. The mass should look like yogurt. Apply the mask all over the face, including the area around the eyes. After 30 minutes, wash off the mass and apply a light moisturizer based on natural oils.

To prepare the mask you will need:
- 3 drops of sweet almond oil
- 2 drops of lavender essential oil
- 5 drops of rose hydrolat
- 1 capsule of ceramides
- Ceramic or glass plate for mixing ingredients
- Wooden spatula

Mix the oils and slightly warm them in a water bath, add ceramides and hydrolat, apply on the face skin and leave for 20 minutes. Rinse off the mask with warm water and apply a moisturizer.

Mask for oily skin... To prepare the mask you will need:
- 3 drops of tea tree oil
- 1 capsule of ceramides
- A teaspoon of lemon juice
- A tablespoon of homemade sour cream.
- Ceramic or glass plate for mixing ingredients
- Wooden spatula

Mix all the ingredients and apply to the face, excluding the area around the eyes. The mask must be kept for 15 minutes, then rinse off with warm water. To enhance the effect, cleanse the skin with a mild scrub before applying the mask. This mask perfectly normalizes the work of the sebaceous glands and allows you to get rid of the oily sheen on the T-zone for several hours even without the use of matting powder.

Sensitive skin mask... To prepare the mask you will need:
- 1 capsule of ceramides
- 2 drops of grape seed oil
- 1 tablespoon banana pulp
- 1 teaspoon grated fresh cucumber
- Ceramic or glass plate for mixing ingredients
- Wooden spatula

All ingredients mix thoroughly with each other and apply on the face. Let it sit for about 20 minutes and rinse with warm water. The mask perfectly removes redness and irritation, helps soften the skin and restores moisture balance.

- Return to the section table of contents "Dermatology"

Why does the skin need ceramides
Ceramides: aging and decay
Role of ceramides in cosmetics
Indications for use
What are ceramides in cosmetics
Natural and synthetic ceramides
Funds overview

Why does the skin need ceramides

Ceramides or ceramides (from the Latin cerebrum, "brain") are a type of lipids (fats). They are the main structural element of the hydrolipid layer of the skin, which is necessary to protect against aggressive external factors and prevent moisture loss.

The lack of ceramides destroys the protective skin barrier.

One of the main functions of ceramides is construction, they fill the intercellular space. With a shortage or poor quality of ceramides, the integrity of the skin's natural shield will be disrupted. It is not difficult to predict the sad consequences.

Dehydration Left uncovered, moisture will begin to evaporate.

Dryness When the cells are unable to retain moisture, the skin becomes thirsty and uncomfortably tight.

Irritation and inflammation Ceramides protect the skin from the penetration of toxins, heavy metals, exhaust gases, viruses and bacteria.

Ceramides: aging and decay

The lipid balance in the skin can be disturbed due to external and internal circumstances.

Age. Alas, over time, the epidermis loses its ability to synthesize ceramides, which leads to dry skin - one of the main problems of mature skin.

Improper care. Too aggressive, improperly selected cleaning agents break the lipid layer. The result is dehydration.

Extreme weather conditions. Frost and sun, prickly wind, excessively cold or dry air can breach the skin's defense system and provoke dryness, itching and redness.

Lack of fatty acids in the diet. Yes, the skin does not like it when we eat wrong, and does not hide it. Dryness and tenderness are the payback for severe dietary restrictions and a lack of "good" fats.

Ceramide creams suit all skin types iStock

Role of ceramides in cosmetics

Indications for use

Cosmetics with ceramides are versatile and suitable for all skin types. But there are cases when creams with ceramides are vital.

Sensitive skin

It has a weakened lipid barrier, and cosmetics with ceramides are able to alleviate its condition, protect and prevent a reaction to negative external factors.

Dry skin

Its main problem is the permanent lack of lipids, in particular ceramides. The creams containing them are able to seal moisture and hold it in the skin.

Aged skin

Suffers from a lack of fat for obvious reasons, which include, for example, a decrease in the synthesis of its own lipids.

Skin after procedures

Creams with ceramides are indicated after salon peels and dermabrasion procedures. The skin after these manipulations requires the fastest restoration of the hydrolipid mantle.

Problem skin

Despite the increased greasiness, ceramides can also be useful for her to establish the process of normal exfoliation of cells and avoid the effect of dry skin as a result of treatment.

Ceramide deficiency can lead to dryness and flaking iStock

What are ceramides in cosmetics

9 different ceramides are synthesized in the skin; only some of their analogues are used in beauty products.

In cosmetic formulas, ceramides are usually combined with other lipids - cholesterol, fatty acids, amino acids. In such an environment, they work with increased efficiency.

Natural and synthetic ceramides

Ceramides of natural and synthetic origin are used for cosmetic needs. There is a widespread belief that synthetic, so-called pseudoceramides, are much inferior in quality and action to their natural prototype. However, there is no scientific evidence to support or refute this statement yet.

Funds overview

Considering the above, it is not surprising that ceramides are in demand as a cosmetic ingredient and appear in creams for various purposes.

Cosmetics with ceramides - for skin with different needs.

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Ceramides are often used as an anti-aging ingredient in skin care products, but how exactly do ceramides work? Stay tuned for answers to 10 frequently asked questions about ceramides.

1. What are Ceramides?

Ceramides or ceramides are fats found in our skin. Ceramides play an important role in keeping epidermal cells together, and also provide protection against dehydration and external factors (temperature extremes, UV radiation, penetration of microbes and viruses, and so on).

2. How do ceramides help the skin?

Ceramides have proven anti-aging properties. If you compare them to bricks and mortar, skin cells are bricks and ceramides are mortar. Ceramides hold skin cells together by forming a protective layer that helps prevent moisture loss and visible environmental damage. Ceramides also help maintain skin firmness. It has been proven that the less ceramides are present in the skin, the higher the likelihood that moisture will easily leave it.

3. If ceramides are already naturally occurring in the skin, why do I need them in skin care?

Young skin produces many ceramides, but the quality and quantity of ceramides decreases with age. This can damage the skin barrier: dryness, flaking, redness, irritation and dehydration of the skin, as well as premature wrinkles.

Skin care cosmetics will help to fill the lack of ceramides in the skin. With continued use, the skin begins to look and behave more youthful, hydrated, firm and elastic.

4. What results to expect from Korean ceramide cosmetics?

Properly formulated (and properly packaged) ceramide skin care products help strengthen the skin's protective barrier and improve hydration. This results in a smoother, firmer and less wrinkle look.

5. Why does packaging matter?

Good anti-aging ingredients are often unstable. This means that their effectiveness is reduced when exposed to light and air. Therefore, try to choose foods in opaque or airtight (pumped) bottles. This will help preserve the properties of the ingredients in your cosmetic product throughout its shelf life.

6. How do you know if a product contains ceramides?

In the composition of cosmetics, ceramides are denoted by the general word ceramide with a letter designation (ceramide AP, EOP, NG, NP, NS), but not always. If the packaging does not contain the word ceramide, then you should look for ingredients that stimulate the skin to produce ceramides.

Example: Ceramide NS, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide NP, Сetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Phytoceramide and so on.

Because ceramides are such a popular anti-aging ingredient, most brands will clearly communicate this in their products.

7. What is better than synthetic or natural ceramides?

There are two properties that make ceramides an effective anti-aging ingredient: moisturizing the skin and making it look healthy.

Ceramides can be obtained from plants. But the disadvantage of plant-based ceramides is that they can only moisturize the skin, but cannot provide an anti-aging effect. Ceramides obtained from animal and human skin have both properties. But for many conservationists, this is unacceptable.

Therefore, synthetic ceramides have been developed as an effective and ethical solution. They are resistant, moisturize the skin and teach it to be young and healthy. In the past, synthetic ceramides were poorly absorbed by the skin, but the new generation ceramides do not have this problem.

8. What type of skin are ceramides suitable for?

Ceramides are "skin-identical" ingredients as they occur naturally in the skin. This makes them the perfect ingredient for all skin types, even sensitive, acne-prone or oily skin. Ceramides are also safe for the eye area.

9.What are the best ingredients to combine ceramides with?

Ceramides are most effective when combined with other "skin-identical" ingredients such as amino acids, glycerin and cholesterol. These lipid blends are great for improving skin tone and texture and reducing signs of irritation.

To enhance anti-aging performance, make sure your ceramide-fortified product also contains antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients such as retinol, niacinamide, linoleic acid, or peptides.

10. Can I combine ceramides with AHA or BHA acids?

Yes, you can definitely combine ceramides with AHA or BHA acids. The acids remove the layer of dead skin cells, which allows ceramides to penetrate better.

AHA (Glycolic Acid) - Best for dry or sun damaged skin. It works to smooth wrinkles, whiten brown spots and moisturize skin.

BHA (Salicylic Acid) - Ideal for fighting acne and age spots. It cleanses and visually minimizes enlarged pores.

If you still have questions, do not hesitate, ask them either in the comments under the article, or write them to our e-mail.

»Ceramides, their types and action

Ceramides, their types and action.

I continue to conduct educational work.

I do not know why many people have the opinion that all ceramides are the same and in fact there is no sense from them. But at the same time, everyone knows that peptides are different and even know how to use them (not everyone, but many know or pretend to know), although in fact, all peptides also have the same goal - rejuvenation. But when you start talking about ceramides, many people say that moisturizing can be obtained with cheaper assets. And many do not understand the difference between different types of ceramides and what they do and how to combine them do not even have the slightest idea. And when I ask the question why manufacturers make mixes of ceramides, many people think that this is just such a marketing ploy of manufacturers))) A small but intelligible example. That would be if you had a familiar plumber named Sergei, and you thought that all Sergei must be plumbers. It is the same with ceramides.

Ceramides and glycosylceramides are vital molecules in numerous biological processes such as apoptosis *, the process by which a cell actively “commits suicide”; signal transduction, a cascade of processes by which extracellular signals interact with a receptor on the cell surface; and mitogenesis, the process of inducing transit through the cell cycle.
* I must say right away that apoptosis is cell death. And unfortunately, many of my customers feel sorry for the poor cell and do not want it to die))) Girls, if the cells do not die, they will multiply, reproduce and multiply, and as a result, a malignant or benign tumor will turn out (as anyone is lucky), in fact, this is how cancer develops. Therefore, the process of apoptosis is essential.
In fact, ceramides are formed by hydrolysis of sphingomyelin, they activate a cycle followed by three different cellular responses: downregulation of cell proliferation, induction of cell differentiation, and apoptosis. It was found that the effect of long-chain ceramides in the model membrane (16-24 C) * increases the two-layer permeability to aqueous solutions. This effect is not supported in the presence of short chain ceramides (2-6 carbon atoms). (Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Lipo Chimcals Inc., Paterson, N.J., USA)
* Long-chain ceramides comprising up to 40% of the lipid matrix and containing linoleic acid. Sphingoid bases are associated with fatty acids, including free lower fatty acids. These acids perform a number of important biological functions, including preventing TEPB and maintaining the acidic pH level of the stratum corneum of the epidermis (K.N. Monakhov, D.K.Dombrovskaya)
By the way, it has been checked more than once! With atopic dermatitis, it is better to wash with slightly acidic agents (pH about 5-5.5), so the skin recovers faster.

Even with a slight violation of the epidermal barrier and an increase in its permeability, keratinocytes begin to produce cytokines that regulate the process of regeneration of the stratum corneum. With extensive or too frequent damage to the stratum corneum, these cytokines trigger an inflammatory response. At least nine classes of ceramides have been identified, and they are designated CER l - CER 9. In 1993, in a study of the psoriatic scale ceramide composition, a simple ceramide nomenclature system was proposed, which is based on the ceramide structure. First, they divided ceramides into five classes. In this system, the amide-linked fatty acid is denoted by one letter: N - normal fatty acid; A is an alpha hydroxy acid; 0 - omega hydroxy acid. Similarly, S - denotes the long chain base for sphingosine; H for 6-hydroxysphingosine and P for phytosphingosine. Thus, for example, ceramide 2 can be unambiguously called NS ceramide. The presence of an ester fatty acid in acylceramides is indicated by the prefix E. O-acylceramides have distinctive structures not seen in other tissues. Their unique structures provide their functionality in epidermal barrier permeability. The ester-bound fatty acids in each of the three o-acylceramides (EOS, EOP, EOH) in a normal healthy epidermis are predominantly linoleic acid.

So, the classification of ceramides:
S is sphingosine;
P is phytosphingosine;
H - b-hydroxysphingosine;
DS - dihydrosphingosine.
This is preceded by a letter indicating the type of fatty acid residue:
N is non-hydroxy acid;
A - a-hydroxy acid;
O - w-hydroxy acid.

With a deficiency of fatty acids, linoleate is replaced by oleate. This creates a mess in the intercellular lamina, which leads to an increase in TEWL. Extracellular glycosylceramides and sphingomyelins are precursors of ceramide. The enzymes beta-glucosylceramidase and sphingomyelinase are responsible for the hydrolysis and formation of ceramides from these precursors. Both precursors and enzymes are responsible for homeostasis of the epidermal permeability barrier. The desquamation process (exfoliation of skin cells) relies on the conversion of cholesterol sulfate to cholesterol. There is a hypothesis that all the main subfractions of ceramides are obtained from lamellar bodies containing glucosylceramides. This hypothesis is based on the recorded chemical structures of the epidermis-l glucosylceramides and skin ceramides. It is also known that ceramides containing sphingomyionic substances are necessary for normal barrier function homeostasis. The two epidermal sphygomyelins SM-I and SM-3 were found to be important precursors of the two corresponding ceramides: ceramide NS (ceramide 2) and ceramide AS (ceramide 5), respectively. Other ceramides, including the omega-hydroxyceramides, exhibit varying levels of saturation and are not derived from sphingomyelin.

In addition, ceramides play a role in other biochemical processes in the skin. Ceramides have been found to be present at significant levels in both basal cells and the upper epidermis. In basal epidermal cells and fibroblasts, ceramides have been found in the nuclear envelope of the cell, the inner and outer membranes of mitochondria, the endoplasmic reticulum, and on the plasma membrane. In the upper epidermis, ceramides are localized in the lamellar bodies, the granular membrane and in the intercellular space.
Violation of the skin barrier by organic solvents (alcohol, acetone or surfactants) first causes significant moisture evaporation. But after a while, if the skin is healthy, it begins to recover. The synthesis of free fatty acids, sphingolipids and cholesterol in the living layers of the epidermis is increased, which leads to the restoration of the barrier. Cholesterol synthesis will begin 90 minutes after the barrier is broken. Peeling works according to this principle, when the skin first experiences stress from damage and then begins to recover. This synthesis is regulated by the enzyme HMG CoA reductase. Synterolipid synthesis, which is regulated by serine palmitoyltransferase, will begin approximately six hours after the barrier is broken. But if the breakdown of the barrier is chronic, it will also stimulate DNA synthesis and cell division. Most cutaneous diseases that have a decreased barrier function also show a decrease in total ceramide content. Xerosis, which is a condition for pathological dry skin associated with aging and other problems, is the result of a decrease in the level of collagen in the skin and the content of ceramides. It has been shown that the applied formulations containing lipids that are similar in composition to the structure of the skin, and in particular ceramides, improve the condition of the skin. Ceramides are also used in moisturizing formulas to reduce irritation from surfactants and other harsh substances, combined with alpha hydroxy acids to help firm skin. Complete lipid combinations, which include the three main components of intercellular lipids (fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides), have been shown to result in the formation of normal lamellar bodies to support and repair intercellular bilayers.
Understanding the ratios and combinations of different lipids can be the basis for the development of new forms of topical therapy for a variety of skin diseases that are associated with skin and epidermal injury. For example, when NP ceramide emollient cream (ceramide 3) was applied to the skin, it showed significant reductions in erythema and TEWL compared to controls. With atopic dermatitis and aging, the content of ceramides and their proportions change. Two types of deacylases have been described that hydrolyze the amide bond in sphingomyelin and glucosylceramides. However, they are not expressed in a normal healthy epidermis. It is believed that these enzymes are at least partially responsible for reducing the level of ceramides in the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis.

Flora of the skin in chronological aging and in atopic dermatitis.
Analysis of the entire epidermis of chronologically aging skin showed that the total amount of lipids is reduced by 30%, while the proportions of ceramides remain unchanged. The skin becomes dry and more permeable. The flora of skin microorganisms was found to be one of the factors responsible for the deficiency of ceramides in the skin. The enzyme ceramidase breaks down ceramide into sphingosine and fatty acids. It was found that this enzyme is secreted in excess by the bacterial flora in patients with atopic dermatitis compared to healthy subjects. This increases the hypersensitivity of the skin by disrupting the permeability barrier.
The article writes about some incomprehensible enzymes. These enzymes are divided into two groups: some destroy the dermal mantle, while others help to restore the skin. The latter are builders who "knead the cement and repair the brickwork." That is, they disassemble the lipids from the outside (your emulsion that you applied to the skin) into particles and from them they already build the lipids of the epidermis.

Perfect proportion is 3: 1: 1. But to solve each problem, its own proportion is needed.
For skin after photodamage, the following proportion is needed:
1 part ceramides: 1 part cholesterol (or phytosterols): 3 parts essential fatty acids
For skin with atopic dermatitis, the following proportion is needed:
3 parts ceramides: 1 part cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part non-essential fatty acids

For aging skin, you need, respectively, its own proportion:
1 part ceramides: 3 parts cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part essential fatty acids.
Essential fatty acids are Omega-3 and Omega-6, vitamin F. The most famous are wheat germ oil, camelina, mustard oil, borage (borage), evening primrose, currant, caviar extract (CO2), fish oil, etc. These acids contribute to the normalization of cholesterol metabolism. It is worth noting that unsaturated fatty acids are also found in lecithin, and this should be taken into account in order to create the correct proportion, which is necessary to solve a particular problem. Also, you can often find that triglycerides are added instead of essential fatty acids in medicated creams. This is not surprising, since they replace essential fatty acids and at the same time, such an emulsion will be less susceptible to oxidation. In addition, do not forget that all oils are inherently neutral fats based on triglycerides.
The oils and the integrity of the skin barrier are very related. If you get carried away with an excessive amount of oils, then you, on the contrary, will only destroy the skin barrier. Since lipids in large quantities and with systematic abuse will only dilute the lipid layers, disrupt their structure, and over time, only destroy it. On the physical plane, this will result in the manifestation of xerosis and dermatitis.
Let's return now to our "cement", this is actually the lipid matrix, which contains ceramides. This matrix contains different types of ceramides. So far, 9 species have been counted (read above).

Types of ceramides and their characteristics:
Type I (the first type of EOS ceramide) - play an important role in the organization of stratum corneum lipids. Responsible for balancing the elasticity and density of the skin, i.e. so that the skin is quite strong, but flexible. It is also responsible for the process of cross-linking of corneocytes with matrix lipids. Its deficiency is one of the main causes of many dermatitis. (Ponec et al. J. Invest Dermatol 120: 581-588, 2003) (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH)
II type of ceramide (has two names - ceramide NS or ceramide NG). It is of synthetic origin, by the formation of amides. Responsible for inhibition (suppression) of cell proliferation and induces apoptosis.

Inhibits protein kinase and protein phosphatase. Proliferation is the appearance, growth of new cells and intracellular structures. With the help of proliferation, the defect formed during tissue damage (scars, stretch marks, etc.) is eliminated and the impaired function is normalized. But proliferation also promotes the development of tumors, etc. Therefore, for the balance of cell growth and death, such a ceramide is simply necessary.[Kim M.Y. et al., 1991] ... Test - two short-chain synthetic ceramides were taken - ceramide 2 and ceramide 6, two natural ceramides 3 and 6A, as well as sphingomyelin. Keratinocytes were incubated in a medium containing 0.5; 1; 5 and 10 μM of the test substance. All studied ceramides, except for sphingomyelin, inhibited cell proliferation. The most active was ceramide ceramide 2 - at a concentration of 10 μM it inhibited DNA synthesis by 60%. Natural ceramides showed only a small effect on the proliferation rate. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/).

Ceramide type III prevents water loss, restores the barrier properties of the stratum corneum. However, for more effective work, ceramide-3 is usually combined with ceramide-6, phytosphingosine and linoleic acid.
Test - The study studied the properties of two emulsion preparations (by the type of lamellar emulsions): one contained only ceramides 3 and 3V (a semi-synthetic analogue of natural ceramides), the other contained their combination with ceramide b, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid. The study involved 12 women aged 22-24 years. Before using the preparations, the stratum corneum was damaged by treatment with a surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) or a non-polar solvent (acetone). Prolonged (24 hours) contact with sodium lauryl sulfate caused a change in the structure of the intercellular "cement" - the skin reacted to this by increasing the TEPV index. The application of acetone led to the "washing out" (extraction) of lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin, which also damaged the stratum corneum and increased TEWL. The application of the emulsion, which contained both ceramides, led to an insignificant reduction in TEPV and an increase in skin moisture in the areas of application of “damaging” agents - a surfactant and a non-polar solvent. Significantly better effects were achieved with the help of the second drug: its use reduced TEPV by 20% and increased the moisture content of the stratum corneum by 10%.

The local application of a mixture of physiological lipids of the stratum corneum and semisynthetic ceramide 3 was also effective, especially in the case of various dermatoses (contact dermatitis (CD), allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) or atopic dermatitis (AD)) - study results (duration 4 or 8 weeks) this was confirmed in 580 patients with one of these pathologies. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/)(Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

Ceramides, their types and action

Part 2:

The use of a mixture of ceramides in the treatment is capable of forming similar structures and can give very good results in the restoration of the stratum corneum, which has been confirmed experimentally. Using wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction, it was found that the spatial organization of sphingolipids in the EOP / EOS / NP / NS / AP / hexanoylphitosphingosine / hexanoylsphingosine mixture is similar to that observed in the intercellular "cement". Regular topical application of such a mixture will provide "in place" all the substances necessary to restore the skin barrier, which has been shown in in vivo and in vitro experiments using oil-in-water emulsions containing this lipid mixture. The study measured TEWL, hydration and elasticity of the skin and recorded changes associated with the use of the sphingolipid mixture compared to the control emulsion (containing no sphingolipids). The results turned out to be encouraging: the TEWL index decreased by 4 points, the skin hydration increased by 10 points, and the skin elasticity increased by 8%. As a result, the used sphingolipid mixture not only restored the stratum corneum and increased its moisture content, but also increased the elasticity of the skin. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/) (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH)

Ceramide IIIА (N-Linoleoyl - Phytocphingosine) - in addition to its protective barrier properties, inhibits the activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes. Thanks to this, it brightens the skin well. Ceramide IIIA is commonly used in anti-age products, whitening products, eye care products, age spot treatment products (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

CeramideIIIB (has the same classification as Ceramide III - Ceramide NP) - prevents skin damage, prevents moisture evaporation and promotes long-term hydration. Promotes UV protection (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

Ceramides IV and V types (have a common name - ceramide AS) - are of synthetic origin, through the formation of amides. They are protective ceramides that prevent transepidermal water loss and improve the protective functions of the skin barrier.

Ceramide type VI (ceramide AR) is a very interesting ceramide, as its structure is similar to the structure of AHA acids. Therefore, he is responsible for the normalization of the process of gentle (unlike ANA) desquamation (normalization of the skin renewal process). Improving skin color, smoothing wrinkles. Strengthens the natural skin barrier (especially with age-related changes and dryness). Restoration of hair structure.
Ceramides isolated from plants... These are the same ceramides, which consist of two components: digalactosyldiglycerides and glycosylceramides. Glycosylceramides are sphingolipids that are involved in the regulation of the activity of apoptosis enzymes (protein kinase, phosphatase, and protease). Digalactosylceramides are amphiphilic molecules that promote the synthesis of fibronectin. Fibonectin is responsible for the firmness and integrity of the skin. All plant ceramides, except for their direct action, also bear all the properties of the plant from which the ceramide is extracted.
Ceramides isolated from wheat Is a combination of two important ingredients for the treatment and prevention of skin diseases. These ceramides are enriched with essential fatty acids, which are essential for skin healing. As you know, with a lack of linoleic acid, the body will replace it with oleic acid, which leads to a violation of the skin barrier. Moreover, if you remember the proportions of 3 parts of ceramides: 1 part of cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part of essential fatty acids, then when using wheat ceramides, you will only need to add 1 part of cholesterol (phytosterols), since unsaturated fatty acids themselves ceramide is already in your complex. Action - healing and restoration of the skin barrier, increasing the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Saturation of the body with essential fatty acids.
Ceramides derived from rice oil (rice ceramides) - help to improve skin elasticity, prevent water loss, strengthen the skin barrier. And thanks to its parent (rice oil) - it protects against UV radiation and helps to whiten the skin.

Based on the information collected and the qualities of ceramides, I created a plate where you can understand which ceramide is responsible for what and which ceramides are best combined to solve a particular problem.

As can be seen from the plate and according to the test data (see above), ceramides, like peptides, should be combined for more efficient work and quick results. Typically, all ceramides work at very low %% input. If ceramides are combined, then to obtain the effect, it will be enough to introduce the minimum concentration of each ceramide.

Synergistic combinations for the production of ceramides:
1) It has been found that ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives effectively increase the synthesis of epidermal ceramides and therefore improve the skin's barrier function, moisture and its appearance. A synergistic effect has been found when using ascorbic acid in combination with its esters. This combination especially promotes the formation of AR and AN ceramides (ceramides 6 and 7).
2) Another compound that increases the ceramide content in the skin is ursolic acid. This plant-based triterpenoid has shown anti-inflammatory properties in laboratory animals. When tested in vitro in cultured normal human keratinocytes, ursolic acid caused an increase in two components at once - ceramide and collagen. In clinical testing, ursolic acid increases the ceramide content of the skin over an 11-day period.
3) The third asset that promotes ceramide production is niacinamide (vitamin B3). Its effect on ceramide content was tested both in cell cultures and topically. It was shown that niacinamide significantly increases the level of glucosylceramides and sphingomyelin, increases the activity of serine-palmitoyltransferase, which limits the rate of the enzyme in the synthesis of sphingolipids. Niacinamide also increases the synthesis of free fatty acids and cholesterol. Overall, this vitamin improves the skin's permeability barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides and regulating serine palmitoyltransferase. (Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Lipo Chimcals Inc., Paterson, N.J., USA)
4) Sphingosine, on the other hand, has pronounced antimicrobial properties, it is very good to include them in formulations for the treatment of any skin damage (from acne to age-related changes).

Compiled by ONLINE STORE Magical Ariya

Ceramides (ceramides) - natural lipids (fats), which are the main structural components of the external structure of the skin. Along with other lipids such as cholesterol and its esters, fatty acids, ceramides prevent water loss through the epidermis, which can lead to dry skin.

Ceramides are indicated on labels under the following names: Ceramide NS, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide PC-102 (Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide MEA), Ceramide PC-104 (Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA), Ceramide PC-108 (Hydroxypropyl Bisstearamide MEA), Ceramide 1, 2, 3, III, 6-II and so on until 9 (except 5).

Why are ceramides needed

The skin as a barrier system inhibits the transport of moisture through its own extracellular matrix, which has a unique composition: ~ 50% ceramides, ~ 25% cholesterol, and ~ 15% free fatty acids. Ceramides are essential for providing capacity and moisture retention in the skin, as well as regulating a number of cellular functions. Natural ceramides, for example, act as signaling molecules, "setting" the time of death for cells. They also serve as a barrier against bacteria and environmental pollution.

The cells in the outer layer of the skin - on the surface of the epidermis - are the richest source of ceramides. Ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol work together in the stratum corneum to prevent water loss and keep skin hydrated and supple. Ceramides make up about 40% of all lipids in the stratum corneum, however, unfortunately, this figure is not eternal.

Ceramides: aging and decay

Unfortunately, ceramide levels decline with age. This is one of the reasons our skin gets drier as we get older. Harsh cleansers can also disrupt lipid balance, further leading to dry skin. Some drugs, such as statues (drugs to lower cholesterol), also negatively affect this factor: they can reduce the lipid content not only in the blood, but also in the outer layer of the epidermis.

Diet also plays a role. If the diet lacks essential fatty acids (especially omega acids), this will inevitably affect the natural skin barrier by reducing local immunity and losing moisture. A certain amount of fat in the diet is extremely important for healthy skin, so it is not surprising when people after extreme diets are faced with the problem of dry, flaky skin.

What are ceramides in cosmetics

Obviously, ceramides and other lipids are essential for retaining moisture and preventing dry skin. This is why some skincare manufacturers add ceramides to their skincare formulas - a good way to replenish ceramides lost during aging and as a result of skin lipid barrier breakdown.

Ceramides in cosmetics as "additional" fats help to restore the skin, its hydrolipid mantle. Ceramides in skin care products are different types of lipids that are incorporated into the cell membrane of the epidermis. There are nine different types of ceramides, which are usually labeled with numbers from 1 to 9.

To increase the activity of ceramides in cosmetics, their ability to penetrate deep into the epidermis, they are sometimes combined with absorbency intensifiers (introduced into transdermal systems). Ceramides in cosmetics can also be incorporated into liposomes, special bubbles that easily penetrate the skin. Liposomes themselves, as transdermal systems, can also have a therapeutic function: they are often made from milk fat, which also helps nourish the skin.

Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids play a role in maintaining the skin's ability to retain moisture. This is why it is so important to replenish cholesterol and fatty acid stores along with ceramides, nourishing the skin with appropriate products to maintain a balance that is identical to the natural ratio of fats in the hydrolipid mantle. Effective agents just observe the appropriate ratios of all these lipids.

Who will benefit from ceramides in cosmetics?

As already clear, products with ceramides are needed primarily for people with dry, flaky and damaged skin. Ceramides can also be useful in the treatment of certain skin conditions, including eczema and psoriasis: people with eczema or psoriasis have fewer ceramides in the stratum corneum of the skin compared to people with normal skin. Thus, with the help of care cosmetics containing ceramides, it is possible to improve the condition of allergic skin diseases.

For best results, dermatologists recommend using a mild liquid cleanser that is non-irritating and non-irritating, along with a moisturizer or nourishing cream that contains ceramides and other essential lipids, to cleanse your skin. There are even ceramide cleansers that cleanse the skin so gently that it prevents the inevitable loss of lipids in the process - a great choice for people with dry or aging skin, as well as those with eczema or psoriasis.

Natural or synthetic ceramides

Natural ceramides are extremely unstable substances, the production process of which is laborious and expensive ($ 2,000- $ 10,000 / kg). In addition, many natural ceramides are extracted from the nervous system of cattle, raising the question of the risk of contracting prion viruses (“mad cow disease”). Also, natural ceramides can provoke excessive cellular apoptosis, which is not done by synthetic analogues.

Thus, in cosmetic formulas, synthetic ceramides are often used instead of natural ones - mainly of plant origin. Although “pseudoceramides” are harmless and work in the same way as natural ones, they have one significant drawback - they do not penetrate the skin as well as natural ceramides. However, their permeability is significantly improved if synthetic ceramides are integrated into liposomes.

Cosmetics with ceramides (ceramides)

You can find ceramides in a variety of products - nourishing and moisturizing creams and masks, eye creams, cleansers, sunscreens, lip glosses, lipsticks, and foundations. In fact, every brand produces such products, so ceramide cosmetics can be found in any segment. Ceramides are also added to some hair care products, such as conditioners, where they bind to the hair cuticle and "repair" it, making it less porous.

All EU and US dermatological associations classify ceramides as safe cosmetic ingredients - they do not irritate the skin and actually relieve irritation and itching associated with skin dehydration. In general, cosmetics containing ceramides are beneficial for people with all skin types, they are safe to use and usually do not cause irritation, allergies or inflammation.

One of the main functions of ceramides is construction, they fill the intercellular space. With a shortage or poor quality of ceramides, the integrity of the skin's natural shield will be compromised. It is not difficult to predict the sad consequences.

1
Dehydration Left uncovered, moisture will begin to evaporate.
2
Dryness When the cells are unable to retain moisture, the skin becomes thirsty and uncomfortably tight.
3
Irritation and inflammation Ceramides protect the skin from the penetration of toxins, heavy metals, exhaust gases, viruses and bacteria.

In addition to protecting the skin from the "bad environment", ceramides have another important function - signaling. It is they who give the sign when it is time for the old cells to die off, and the new ones to be born.

Ceramides: aging and decay

The lipid balance in the skin can be disturbed due to external and internal circumstances.

Age. Alas, over time, the epidermis loses its ability to synthesize ceramides, which leads to dry skin - one of the main problems of mature skin.

Improper care. Too aggressive, improperly selected cleaning agents break the lipid layer. The result is dehydration.

Extreme weather conditions. Frost and sun, prickly wind, excessively cold or dry air can breach the skin's defense system and provoke dryness, itching and redness.

Role of ceramides in cosmetics

Means with ceramides come to the rescue in cases when the skin, for one reason or another, suffers from a lack of its own lipids. Ideally, the ceramides included in the cream should freely integrate into the hydrolipid layer of the epidermis, filling the "gaps", and thus restore the integrity of the protective skin barrier.