We already remember that for growing cotton receives huge doses of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides, many of which have long been banned in Europe.

1. Cotton is picked by hand or mechanically, grains are harvested, in the case of mechanical assembly, already at this stage, the separation of the fiber from the rest of the plant occurs with the help of harmful chemical substances.
2. Cleaning. Produced to separate fiber from various debris.
3. Spinning and gluing.
   After cleaning, the fibers are spun into threads. The threads are glued in order to give them strength and protect them from breaks during friction in the process of weaving or knitting. For this, the threads are immersed in solutions based on starch, synthetic resins and fats.
4. Whitening. The goal of bleaching is to make the fiber look extremely white. Once upon a time, threads and fabrics were bleached in the fields, with the help of exposure sun rays... Today, chemistry is used for this. Chlorine-based substances like bleach, soda chloride or hydrogen peroxide.
5. Removing adhesive from fabric used in step 3. For this, chemicals are used.
6. Painting.
   In industry, only synthetic chemicals are used for painting. There are more than 4000 dyes, and they belong to different groups chemical substances.
   Use chemical dyes preceded by the use of a group of other chemicals: pickling solution, dye accelerator, wetting agent, chelating agent, defoamer, catalyst, binders, thickeners and many others.

   If you write in detail about dyes, you can write a whole book. Let's select only by physical signs two groups:

   • - pigment dye. Does not dissolve in water. It is mainly used for dyeing synthetic fibers. Causes allergies, some of which are carcinogenic.
   • - soluble dyes. Used for natural and synthetic fibers. There are reactive, acidic, alkaline. Some belong to azo dyes.
7. Finishing. And you thought that the fabric was dyed, and that's it? Can I sew? In industry - nothing of the kind! The fabric must still undergo a series of operations called finishing. The purpose of these operations is to change appearance fabrics, to give it qualities that are valuable to consumers, sometimes to make the fabric heavier. Some finishes are purely mechanical (naping, shaving, crimping), but most are chemical. Here are just the most common ones:
   * mercerization. Gives the cotton a silky look and prepares it for painting. The threads are soaked in a sodium hydroxide solution at a temperature of 0 degrees. The threads are then washed with an acidic solution to neutralize caustic soda residues.
   * crease resistance finish. Most often by applying formaldehyde resins.
   * bluing - to enhance the whiteness effect. Numerous chemicals are used, derived from dibenzylidene, pyrazole, benzazole
   * anti-stall treatment. Used for wool. Most often using formalin.

   Ekaterina Tarasova

We have already talked about materials for garments, and today we will consider the technology of production of fabrics, how fabrics differ from other sewing materials.

Fabric production. Process.

The fabric is produced by weaving 2 yarn systems: warp and weft. The warp, which consists of many threads, is stretched along the machine (it is also called a lobe thread) and slowly moves, unwinding from a large spool - a beam. In the center of the loom there is a shedding mechanism (in the video we see a heddle), which separates the warp threads, forming a diamond-shaped space called the weaving shed. Weft threads (transverse) are inserted into the throat with the help of a shuttle, intertwined with the main ones and compacted with the help of a comb-shaped reed, which performs a reciprocating rocking motion.

Looms can be shuttle, shuttleless, having instead of shuttles moving tubes - "rapiers", along which with the help compressed air the weft thread is thrown. There are carriage looms that produce a complex (jacquard) weave. Modern machines are created with program management... But, in spite of all the complexity of the equipment, it is based on the same old loom, the same principle of weaving threads: warp and weft.

But in order to obtain fabric, threads are needed, which means that weaving is preceded by the process of producing yarn - one of initial stages weaving process. We have already talked about this in the lessons on linen and cotton fabrics. Threads are twisted from the yarn (the thread is stronger than the yarn), and then the fabric is woven. After preparation, the fiber passes through carding machines, where additional quality sorting (long, medium and short fiber) and leveling is performed. At the same time, the fiber is converted into a tape that is not strong enough, which is pulled into a thick, loose thread - roving (video "Cotton fabrics"), wound on spools. This yarn then passes through the roving frames, where it twists and becomes thinner and stronger. But this is not yet yarn.

The roving is supplied to the spinning shop - the raw material for yarn production. On spinning machines, the roving, unwinding from the bobbins, is pulled and twisted, comes out with a thin thread, which is wound on bobbins fixed on the spindles. Thus, cotton, woolen, linen and staple yarns are produced.

Before direct weaving, one more preparatory operation of weaving is carried out - the creation of warp and weft packages (longitudinal and transverse threads of the future fabric). The yarn is rewound from the spinning cobs to larger bobbins, which are convenient for weaving, as well as for lengthening the thread. The bobbin holds 8-9 times more yarn than the cob. (Removal of products on the loom is rare, sometimes not every day - such a long whole fabric is produced on the loom).

At the same time, the winder checks each thread for strength, eliminates defects and defects (bumps, loops, thick and thin places), for which the thread is pulled during rewinding between two washers pressed against each other by a spring and through a thin hole that eliminates thickenings. The main thread is impregnated with a special solution for strength. The prepared yarn goes to the weaving shop.

Fabric finishing.

Depending on the fibrous composition of the fabric, the finish is different. This general description refers to fabrics from natural fibers: cotton, linen, wool, staple fabric. Although the finishing can be different in these groups of fabrics, we are considering a general algorithm.

The finished fabric is called harsh, it is tough and ugly, therefore it moves to finishing shops, where it undergoes the process of bleaching, dyeing, drawing, dressing, mercerization - depending on the specified quality of the fabric, on the type and properties of sewing materials, and on the purpose of the fabric. Technical fabrics remain harsh.

Dressing - giving the fabric improved properties: processing with special solutions, thanks to which the fabric becomes wear-resistant, low or non-shrinking, water and oil-repellent, wrinkle-resistant, easily smoothed, uniform in width, elastic, etc. The dressing appeared in textile industry with the development of chemistry. After finishing, the effect of starching appears, the fabric becomes tougher, it keeps its shape better.

The mercerizing process, on the other hand, makes the fabrics silky and soft.

Finishing is carried out on different machines, but, in general, the process can be represented as follows: the fabric is threaded into the machine, spreading mechanisms are installed - they are stretched along the weft thread (in width), as a result of which you can see small punctures along the edge. The fabric from one roller is transferred to the other, passing the fabric through the reservoir of solution.

Fabrics can be bleached or dyed. But there may be a pattern woven with multicolored threads- a strip, a cell, for example, and this fabric is called multicolored.

The pattern can also be obtained in the process of weaving threads (roses in the photo), but we will talk about weaving in the next lesson.

And there are fabrics on which a drawing is printed using paint - printed fabric... In this case, the fabric passes through a system of reservoirs with various dyes and between rollers with different elements pattern: flowers - red, for example, color, leaves - green, etc.
Previously, the drawing was cut by hand on boards. How many elements different color- so many stencils. The boards were dyed in the appropriate color, turned over onto the fabric and hit on them so that the pattern was imprinted - hence the name "printed" - the pattern was stuffed.

The quality of the fabric.

The quality of the fabric is its reliability, durability, beautiful appearance that meets the fashion trends. The fabric produced by textile enterprises must comply with technical requirements established by standards. In the USSR there were GOSTs - state standards as a quality guarantee. Now they indicate more TU - compliance with technical conditions, which can be changed.
The quality of the fabric is checked at all stages of production: from the receipt of raw materials to the finished products of the spinning, weaving, textile haberdashery, knitwear industries. Taking into account the nature, the number of defects, the grade of the products is determined. Requirements for the quality of the fabric: purity, integrity, quality of the pattern, colors. Materials may have weaving defects: holes, dressings, twists, slack; and finishing defects: unpainted, blurry pattern, wrinkles and more. Fabric defects must be taken into account when cutting.

During the finishing process, the fabric is in a wet state, under great tension. It is stretched to dry. This is not a natural state for her, therefore, as soon as the fabric gets into a humid environment (rain, washing, etc.), it shrinks - it returns to its original state. The degree of shrinkage depends on the quality and nature of the fiber: the softer and looser the fiber, the higher the degree of shrinkage (cotton and wool, for example). Also depends on the finish of the fabric. If the fabric is impregnated with a special solution, for example in tarpaulin fabrics, use water-repellent impregnation, then there will be no shrinkage in the fabric.
Plain-colored canvas, as well as with a printed pattern, can "fade" - in a wet state, paint in a wet state can drain and stain nearby fabrics. Fabric with a printed pattern can stain itself, thus smearing the pattern across the margin of the canvas. Plain-colored canvases fade less often than printed ones, but it is better to check before use: wet a piece of cloth or a corner, put a white cloth on top and iron it with a hot iron. As experience shows, multi-colored fabrics practically do not fade.
All these nuances must be taken into account when sewing a product.

I told you about the process of making fabrics, and in the video tutorial I showed you weaving on a loom. I will say that in my lessons I have no intention of giving scientific knowledge in materials science using special terms, listing all types of equipment with utmost precision. Chemicals used and others. There are specialized sites for this. Also, I do not consider it necessary to retype technical textbooks, as some of my colleagues do. Our task is to have a general idea of ​​obtaining fabric and how this process can affect the sewing and operation of the product.
In the next lessons, we will talk with you about the types of weaving weaves, how to learn how to determine the share thread and cross thread, determine the front and seamy side.

Ask questions, write comments, put "likes", share links with your friends.

With love, Olga Zlobina.

Basics of fabric production

Obtaining fabric is carried out at weaving enterprises and is a complex technological process, which, as a rule, includes two main stages: 1) weaving- getting harsh (unfinished) fabric; 2) fabric finishing- the formation of certain consumer properties of the fabric and giving it a presentation. Both stages can be performed both at one (weaving factory) and at different enterprises: weaving (obtaining a harsh fabric) and finishing factories (finishing fabric to a finished presentation).

In weaving, they use homogeneous yarns of various fibrous composition and mixed yarns, twisted, fancy and other yarns. Depending on the fibrous composition, the fabrics obtained are divided into classes: cotton, linen, woolen and silk. The production of each class of fabrics has its own specifics, both in weaving and finishing processes. Therefore, as a rule, weaving (finishing) enterprises specialize in the production of fabrics in accordance with their grouping by class.

Weaving Basics

Weaving is called the process of fabric formation from systems of threads located mutually perpendicular and interconnected by weaving.

The system of threads along the fabric is called basis, and across - duck. Since the warp threads experience significant tension and friction, they must be stronger and smoother than weft threads.

Technological process obtaining a harsh (unfinished) fabric consists of two main stages: preliminary preparation of threads and weaving (weaving of warp and weft threads).

Preliminary preparation of threads consists in carrying out a number of special operations with threads, ensuring their normal processing in the weaving process.

For warp threads, warping- parallel winding a large number threads (300-640 pcs.) of the same length and with the same tension on the warp roller and dressing- impregnation with a special adhesive compound, called dressing, to give the base smoothness, strength, resistance to friction and prevent breakage in the weaving process; for weft - rewinding on the weft bobbins in order to obtain yarns long length on one package, cleaning them from impurities and defects, eliminating weak points in yarn and breaks during rewinding. These operations are performed on warping and winding machines.

An important operation that contributes to the raising and lowering of the warp threads in a certain order during the weaving process is parting- threading the base into the eyes of the heddle (Fig. 8.6) and the reed (Fig. 8.7).

Remizka consists of two strips 1, between which are metal or filament hedges 2, there are eyes in the middle of the heddles 3. Remizki raise and lower threads (yarn) in the process of weaving, their number depends on the nature of the weave.

The reed is made from parallel narrow metal plates (teeth) 2, the ends of which are fixedly fixed by two strips 1. The reed serves to shape the width and density of the fabric.

The base prepared in this way - a weaving beam (roller) - with headers and a reed is installed on a weaving machine.

Process weaving(interlacing of warp and weft threads) is carried out on a loom (Fig. 8.8). Some of the warp threads (for example, even ones) threaded into the eyes of one heddle are periodically raised, and other threads (odd) threaded into the eyes of another heddle are lowered. A throat is formed between them, a shuttle with a weft thread is quickly thrown into it by the mechanism, which is immediately nailed with a reed to the edge of the fabric being produced. Then the headers with the warp threads change position for the next throwing of the shuttle with the weft thread. In this sequence, the process of tissue formation is repeated until the end of the warp. The flight of the shuttle through the shed from one shuttle box to another occurs very quickly, every 0.3 seconds or less, while 220 wefts are laid in 1 minute. When making the widest woolen fabrics, the machine makes 100-120 strokes.

Weaving looms are of various types: single shuttle, multi shuttle and shuttleless.

Multiple shuttle weaving machines are used in the production of fabrics with weft of different fibrous composition, different twists and directions of twisting, different colors, one and a half-layer and two-layer. Depending on the method of feeding the weft, a distinction is made between mechanical and automatic shuttle looms.

The most widespread looms are STB (shuttleless loom), in which the weft thread is laid with a microcheck (small flat plate). The productivity of such a machine is 2-4 times higher than that of a conventional one, in addition, it works silently. V last years shuttleless machines were created, in which the weft thread is inserted into the throat using a drop of water or a jet of air. The former are called hydraulic, the latter are pneumatic.

For the production of fabrics of more complex weaves, jacquard carriage looms are used.

The physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, their appearance depend on the type and properties of the textile threads used and the structure of the fabric, which is determined by their interweaving, i.e. the order of mutual overlap of the warp threads with the weft threads. There are many types of weaving weaves, which are subdivided into four main classes: simple, small-patterned, complex and large-patterned.

Plain weaves used for the production of tissue with smooth surface without any patterns. In practice, they are called basic, since other weaves, especially combined ones, are built on their basis. Simple weaves include linen, twill, satin.

Small-patterned weaves are subdivided into two subclasses: derivatives, obtained by combining two identical simple weaves, and combined, obtained by combining several simple weaves. Both subclasses form a small pattern on the fabric.

Complex weaves used in cases where it is necessary to increase the thickness of the fabric, to obtain different or the same front and back sides, as well as a pile front surface. The most common are one-and-a-half-layer, two-layer, pile, terry, openwork weaves.

One-and-a-half layer weaves are formed from three systems of threads - from two warps and one weft, or vice versa.

Double layer weaves are formed from four, and sometimes from five systems of threads - from two warps and two or three wefts;

it turns out, as it were, two independent layers (canvas), connected by a weft thread.

One-and-a-half and two-layer weaves are used for the production of thickened fabrics (drapes) and blankets with good heat-shielding properties, front side and the wrong side of which can be produced by different weaves and from threads of different thickness, color and fiber composition.

Pile used to obtain a pile cover on the surface of the fabric. The pile is produced by cutting additional warp or weft pile yarns. Such weaves are used to produce velvet, plush, etc.

Terry (looped) by weaves, a looped pile is obtained on the surface of the fabric. These weaves are formed from two warp thread systems and one weft thread system. The looped structure gives terry products a high moisture absorption capacity. Terry weave is used to produce cotton and linen fabrics for sheets, towels, bathrobes, rugs, etc.

Fishnet weaves consist of one weft and two bases - root and openwork (leno). Openwork weaves are used to make light and transparent fabrics for shirts, dresses, blouses, curtains, etc.

Large-patterned weaves form a large weaving (jacquard) pattern on the front surface of the fabric. These weaves are obtained on jacquard machines from a large number(from 24 to 1000 or more) warp threads, intertwined in various ways. Jacquard weave develop dress, costume and coat fabrics various patterns and colors (in small quantities), silk fabrics with a corrugated effect, with a shaped effect and with a fleece, tapestry, curtain and furniture fabrics, scarves, tablecloths, bedspreads and terry towels.

The fabric removed from the loom is called harsh (or harsh fabric). From the weaving shop (factory) she is sent to the dyeing department or to the factory for finishing.

Fabric finishing

Finishing fabrics is called the combination of chemical and physical-mechanical processes, as a result of which the harsh tissue turns into a finished one.

In the process of finishing, the dirt existing on harsh fabrics is eliminated, as well as shrinkage is reduced, the service life is increased, aesthetic and hygienic properties are improved.

state of fabrics. By different impacts the crease decreases and the heat-shielding properties of fabrics are improved. They acquire water resistance (water repellency). From one and the same harsh fabric in the process of finishing, ready-made fabrics with unequal properties and different purposes are obtained.

The nature and conditions of finishing operations vary depending on the structure of the fabrics, their purpose and especially the nature of the yarn or threads from which they are obtained. Therefore, the finishing of fabrics is carried out in finishing factories (workshops), which specialize in finishing cotton, linen, woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics from chemical fibers.

Severe fabrics arriving for finishing in a finishing shop or a finishing factory are subjected to control grading: woolen and silk - in the amount of 100%, and cotton and linen - 10%. All fabrics undergo physical and mechanical tests in the laboratory. After that, a stamp is put on both ends of the fabrics with indelible paint; on woolen fabrics branding is replaced by embroidery. The fabrics are trimmed with a continuous tape, therefore separate pieces are sewn on sewing machines.

A full cycle of finishing fabrics of any assortment consists of a number of independent but interrelated stages: preliminary finishing, dyeing and patterned coloring, final finishing, special finishing.

Pre-finishing designed to prepare fabrics for subsequent dyeing or patterning. The nature of the preparatory operations and their number depends on the raw material composition, the type of accompanying and polluting substances on the fabric. Pre-finishing can include (depending on the fibrous composition of the fabric) the following operations: singeing, desizing, decoction, carbonization, mercerization, bleaching, roll, naping, rating, wet decating, revitalization, weighting, heat setting.

Scorching harsh fabrics of different fiber composition are necessary to remove protruding fiber ends that adversely affect dyeing and printing. Singeing is carried out on plate and gas opal machines.

Desizing carried out for all types of fabric in order to remove from the severity of the dressing applied to the warp threads in the process of their preparation for weaving, as well as dirt and less stable natural impurities (pectin and nitrogenous substances).

Decoction for cotton and linen fabrics it is carried out in alkaline solutions, and for silk - in soap. In the process of boiling, as a result of saponification of fats, they are removed from the fibers along with waxy and other substances. The boiled fabric becomes soft, acquires the ability to be wetted with water, which is very important for subsequent finishing operations (dyeing and printing).

Carbonization- treatment of pure wool fabrics with 4-5% sulfuric acid solution to clean them from vegetable impurities.

Mercerization- processing of cotton fabrics when low temperature concentrated sodium hydroxide solution, followed by washing with hot and cold water... Mercerized fabrics are characterized by softness, silkiness, increased mechanical strength and hygroscopicity.

Bleaching harsh fabrics are necessary to break down and discolor the natural color of the fiber and impart a lasting whiteness and softness to the fabric. Bleach fabrics intended for dyeing in bright hues and light print, as well as underwear. Solutions of oxidizing agents are used as bleaching agents: hydrogen peroxide, sodium and calcium hypochlorite, etc. In addition to chemical bleaching of fabrics, optical bleaching is also used with the use of leukophore, blancophore.

Bleaching of silk fabrics is rarely carried out, since natural dyes are removed by decoction. Bleaching of linen fabrics is difficult, so the yarn is bleached in four stages, each of which has its own degree of whiteness.

Roll- the process of mechanical processing of woolen woolen fabrics in order to compact them and create a felt-like flooring that completely or partially covers the weaving pattern. After rolling, the fabric becomes denser, thicker, softer, in addition, its heat-shielding properties and abrasion resistance increase.

Napping it is carried out with the aim of giving the fabrics increased softness, porosity and improving heat-shielding properties. The operation is carried out on special nap machines using a system of rollers covered with a needle tape. As a rule, teasing is carried out before dyeing and stuffing.

Ratinization carried out on rating machines for some pile woolen cloth fabrics in order to figured the location of the pile on their surface.

Wet decating- treatment of combed and finely woven fabrics with hot steam and water in order to eliminate internal stresses and preventing the formation of creases during further processing.

Revitalization It is carried out for fabrics made of natural silk with weak solutions of organic acids (acetic, lactic, formic). After it, the tissues acquire a characteristic creak or crunch.

Weighting- processing of boiled silk with some minerals (salts of iron, tin, lead, zinc, etc.) and organic compounds (tanning agents). After such processing, the fabrics acquire an increased mass, density, massiveness.

Thermofixation carried out for fabrics made of synthetic fibers. It consists in heating and rapid cooling. Heating can be done with boiling water, saturated water vapor, contact, hot air, infrared rays, and other methods. Heat-set fabrics are practically non-shrinking and resistant to creasing, creases and folds.

Dyeing and patterning of fabrics. Under dyeing tissues understand the process of changing their natural color by absorbing colorant from the solution. Dyes are natural or synthetic organic compounds capable of imparting a particular color to fibrous materials during the dyeing process. The dyeing process consists of four phases: diffusion of dye particles in the dyebath towards the fibrous material; adsorption of the dye on the outer surface of the fiber; diffusion of the dye into the fiber; fixing the dye with fibrous material.

Cotton fabrics dyes the following dyes: direct, sulfur, vat, azo dyes, active, black aniline, pigment, etc.

Linen fabrics most often painted with vat, sulfurous, direct dyes.

Woolen fabrics dyed with acidic, acid-mordant, direct and metal-containing dyes.

Dyeing silk fabrics It is produced with the same dyes as for woolen dyes, but silk fibroin is less resistant to acids, therefore silk is dyed most often with direct, chrome and less often mordant and vat dyes.

Man-made fabrics(viscose, copper-ammonia) are dyed with the same dyes as cotton

important. Acetate and triacetate fabrics are dyed with specially developed celliton dyes. Dyeing synthetic fibers is difficult due to their low hygroscopicity, therefore, it is the fibers from which the fabric will be obtained, and not the fabric itself, that is dyed. In this case, the autoclave method of dyeing, ultrasound, elevated temperature, substances causing their swelling, etc. are used.

The technological process of drawing a pattern on a fabric is called printing, or stuffing. It is used to produce patterned colors on white or dyed fabrics. Patterned colors of fabrics are achieved in the following ways: by hand printing; airbrushed; mesh templates (photo film printing); polychromatic method; thermal printing method (sublistatic); on printing machines.

Manual stuffing carried out using wooden forms with embossed patterns. It is used only for stuffing piece goods, as it is inefficient and expensive.

Airbrush method based on the application of a dye to the fabric using a spray gun through overhead templates with cut patterns.

Mesh patterns(photographic film printing) are printed patterns on fabric using templates, which are a metal rectangular frame with a nylon sieve fabric stretched over it. The surface of the mesh is covered with a film, leaving free areas in the form of a certain pattern. The frame of the template is placed on the fabric to be painted, the paint is poured and, using a rubber plate (squeegee), it is rubbed through the mesh. If the drawing is multi-colored, then as many templates are used as there are colors in the drawing.

Polychromatic method developed by ICI concern (England), it eliminates the need for printing machines and provides an almost limitless variety of colors. Dyeing is done by a series of nozzles that apply ink to the moving fabric across its entire width. The direction of the nozzles, and therefore the nature of the colors, can be adjusted as desired, as well as the color of the paints in each nozzle.

Thermal printing method(sublistatic) consists in transferring a pattern from paper to textile materials with a short-term thermal contact. Preliminarily, a printing ink capable of sublimation is applied to the paper base using printing rollers. Then a paper backing with printed patterns is applied to the moistened cloth and pressed with a heated press. The dye evaporating from the surface of the paper

the medium is transferred to the fabric. This printing method is mainly used for fabrics made of polyester fibers.

Machine printing carried out on printing machines (Fig. 8.9, a, b). They can be single-shaft, if the fabric is dyed with one dye, or multi-shaft, if the fabric is dyed in several colors. The most important part of the printing machine is a printing roller, which is a copper hollow cylinder, on the surface of which a pattern deepened by strokes is engraved. By the method of drawing, they distinguish the following types machine printing: direct, etched and back-up.

Direct print- the drawing is applied to fabric, bleached or dyed in light colors.

Etched print- the fabric is pre-dyed in one color by smooth dyeing, then thickened -: chemically acting compounds (etching) are applied with printing rollers according to a certain pattern on the dyed fabric, which discolor the dye in these places.

Backup print- a special protective reserve composition is applied to the unpainted fabric, which prevents the dye from fixing in those places where it was applied. The fabric processed in this way is dyed with smooth dyeing. At

In this case, the reserved places are not painted and you get white or painted over in a different color places on the painted background.

Final finishing fabrics involves a number of processes that improve the appearance, structure and properties of fabrics. Final finishing can include the following basic operations: fabric spirit lamp, dressing, widening, calendering, piling, haircut and cleaning, final decating, fixation.

Tissue alcohol- This is a process of lightly bleaching no stained areas of printed fabrics.

Dressing consists in processing fabrics with adhesives to give them fullness to the touch, hardness or softness, hygroscopicity, reduce contamination, and better washable.

Widening(weft straightening) is the process of giving fabrics a standard width and eliminating distortions. Moisten the fabric before spreading.

Calendering carried out with the aim of smoothing and compacting fabrics, giving it a smooth glossy surface, shine, etc. Calenders consist of a system of metal and type-setting rollers.

Pile It is carried out for cotton and woolen fabrics on pile machines in order to raise the pile crumpled in the process of finishing operations.

Haircut and cleaning for woolen fabrics, they are carried out on shearing machines to remove protruding ends of fibers from the front surface or align the fleece pile in height.

Final decating- This is the treatment of woolen fabrics with hot steam in order to prevent shrinkage, relieve internal stress, and eliminate shine.

Fixation- fabrics made of synthetic threads undergo secondary stabilization (fixation) by heat treatment taut.

Special finishes used to increase the service life and improve the aesthetic and hygienic properties of fabrics. To the most widely used special types fabric finishes include: indelible dressing, durable embossing, glossy finish, fornise (formation of a crease-resistant product), wear-resistant, anti-static, metallization, waterproof, water-repellent, anti-shrink, anti-rot, anti-milling, fire-resistant, etc.

Stages of production of cotton fabric.

In order for the fluff of cotton to turn into fabric, cotton undergoes numerous preparation stages.
We already remember that for growing cotton receives huge doses of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides, many of which have long been banned in Europe.
Cotton is harvested manually or mechanically, grains are harvested, in the case of mechanical harvesting, already at this stage, the fiber is separated from the rest of the plant with the help of harmful chemicals.
Cleaning. Produced to separate fiber from various debris.
Spinning and gluing.
After cleaning, the fibers are spun into threads. The threads are glued in order to give them strength and protect them from breaks during friction in the process of weaving or knitting. For this, the threads are immersed in solutions based on starch, synthetic resins and fats.
Whitening. The goal of bleaching is to make the fiber look extremely white. Once upon a time, threads and fabrics were bleached in the fields, using exposure to sunlight. Today, chemistry is used for this. Chlorine-based substances like bleach, soda chloride or hydrogen peroxide.
Cleaning the fabric from the adhesive used in step 3. For this, chemicals are used.
Painting.
In industry, only synthetic chemicals are used for painting. There are over 4000 dyes and they belong to different groups of chemicals.
The use of chemical dyes is preceded by the use of a group of other chemicals: pickling solution, dye accelerator, wetting agent, chelating agent, defoamer, catalyst, binders, thickeners and many others.

If you write in detail about dyes, you can write a whole book. Let us single out two groups only by physical characteristics:
- pigment dye. Does not dissolve in water. It is mainly used for dyeing synthetic fibers. Causes allergies, some of which are carcinogenic.
- soluble dyes. Used for natural and synthetic fibers. There are reactive, acidic, alkaline. Some belong to azo dyes.
Finishing. And you thought that the fabric was dyed, and that's it? Can I sew? In industry - nothing of the kind! The fabric must still undergo a series of operations called finishing. The purpose of these operations is to change the appearance of the fabric, to give it qualities that are valuable to consumers, sometimes to make the fabric heavier. Some finishes are purely mechanical (naping, shaving, crimping), but most are chemical. Here are just the most common ones:
* mercerization. Gives the cotton a silky look and prepares it for painting. The threads are soaked in a sodium hydroxide solution at a temperature of 0 degrees. The threads are then washed with an acidic solution to neutralize caustic soda residues.
* crease resistance finish. Most often by applying formaldehyde resins.
* bluing - to enhance the whiteness effect. Numerous chemicals are used, derived from dibenzylidene, pyrazole, benzazole
* anti-stall treatment. Used for wool. Most often using formalin.

Thanks to modern technologies store shelves are full of an abundance of synthetic and artificial fabrics. But still the most valuable for us are fabrics from natural materials... Artificial fabrics have some advantages in strength and elasticity. They hardly wrinkle. At the same time, they are inferior to natural ones in hygroscopicity, therefore, modern weaving has learned to produce fabrics with mixed fibers.

In the history of weaving, a fateful year was 1910, in which the American viscose company first produced a commercial batch of rayon. This area has evolved through two different chemicals and advances in technology.

1924 saw the first commercial production of acetate fiber by the American Celanese corporation.

1939 - Nylon was first released in the United States.

Consider the technology for the production of fabrics.

It consists of several stages. Natural fabrics require careful sequential processing of raw materials, the purpose of which is to obtain thread as a result of spinning. First, yarn is produced in the spinning process. The process itself is divided into separate phases. In textile factories, tightly compressed bales of fibers loosen and flap well. To make a continuous thread from short fibers, the fibers are divided into lumps, cleaned of debris and mixed. This creates a whole layer of fiber called the canvas. In it, the fibers are arranged randomly in the form of small clumps. The canvas is gradually wound onto rolling pins to form a roll. Then the canvas is sent to carding machines, where it is divided into fibers and finally cleaned from the remains of litter and impurities. The result is a carding ribbon - a loose rope. It, in turn, is sent to the combing machine, where it turns into a homogeneous combed belt, which is distinguished by an even, strictly parallel arrangement of fibers. Roving is formed from it by stretching, thinning and slight twisting. Then they proceed to the last stage - the actual spinning. On spinning machines, the roving becomes 200-300 times thinner and there it is subjected to final twisting, after which it turns into yarn. Then the weaving process is already underway. Weaving is the process of forming an unfinished gray fabric using a loom by interweaving two systems of threads located perpendicular to each other. You guessed it, this is warp and weft. Warp threads strengthen in a special way, since they are subject to greater tension and friction, therefore, their strength should be maximized so that the thread does not break. To do this, the base is sized - the threads are impregnated with an adhesive composition, and then dried. The weft threads are wound on special shuttles, which are scurried on the loom between the warp threads back and forth. The harsh fabric obtained as a result of weaving is processed in order to improve its commercial properties. Then the fabrics are boiled to remove wax fatty substances, bleached, dyed, and a drawing is printed. Then the surface is piled, decated (treated with steam to reduce shrinkage), etc. After passing through the entire technological chain, the fabric can be used for cutting and sewing.