Review of the best Russian and Arab natural perfumes. Natural perfumes versus ordinary ones. Expert opinions

Perfumes have existed for many millennia, just like... And if earlier it was available only to the privileged class, now the original trail of perfume is the rule good manners. There is a huge variety of perfumed products, but many people prefer something special, something that will help give the image the right mood, add a “zest”. We are talking about natural perfumes made from essential oils.

How to make perfume from essential oils

– a special product that must be handled in a special way. Many people forget that oils are sensitive to sunlight, and therefore they can only be stored in containers made of dark glass.

Moreover, we must not forget that essential oils are a very concentrated composition, therefore, when applied to the skin in pure form may cause Negative consequences(ranging from irritation to severe burn). Therefore, it is only possible in combination with the basic one. The base oil has a liquid, light texture, is practically odorless, and is perfectly absorbed by the skin.

And finally, one more point that must be taken into account if you want to create a unique, “your own” scent. It is necessary to carefully study the line of essential oils. This process may take more than one day, but it important stage composing a composition. It is important to clearly understand what mood a particular aroma evokes, so that you can create not only a unique, but also a pleasant olfactory aroma.

The process of creating perfumes must be approached very seriously, since a successful result will allow you to give your image a peculiarity and allow you to express yourself in some way.

The creation of perfume can begin only after the final selection of the fragrant composition. Use a small glass bottle as a perfume container and add ingredients using a measuring dropper. The features of creating perfumes, depending on the chosen base, will be discussed later, but for now, schematically about how aromatic oils are combined and mixed to create the desired composition.

So, you need to start with the “foundation” - heart notes. The pre-selected composition of this part of the perfume is mixed in a small container. First, it is better to take one drop of each oil. Mix them with a wooden stick and gently inhale the resulting aroma. If necessary, you can add some of the oils to more to obtain the desired scent. Once your sense of smell tells you that the note is ready, give it a little rest.

IMPORTANT. When creating the main components of a fragrance, be sure to record on paper the quantities of certain ingredients immediately after composing the composition.

In a similar way, the optimal base note composition. The oils are mixed with each other until the desired aroma is obtained. Keep in mind that the base oils should not only complement each other, but also the heart note. To do this, before mixing the base, take strips of paper soaked in the smell of oils and try to combine their aroma with the smell of the already prepared oil composition (heart note).

READ ALSO: Tips for choosing the right one coconut oil: rating of the best manufacturers

After this, go out into the fresh air again for a few minutes to rest your sense of smell. Then evaluate the base and heart notes mixed together: the aroma should be harmonious. Final stage - adding a top note by a method similar to the previous stages.

In order for the final aroma to be harmonious, rich, but not overwhelming the sense of smell, it is important to maintain a certain ratio of prepared esters (in drops): 3:2:1 (base/heart note/top note).

Advantages and disadvantages of perfumes made from aroma oils

Handmade perfumes consisting of aroma oils certainly have a number of advantages:

• The relative cheapness of the ingredients needed to create a perfume (the price of several essential oils will be an order of magnitude lower than the price of high-quality luxury perfumes);

• Perfume made with your own hands will be 100% high quality, which cannot be said about most perfume products, presented in specialized boutiques;

• Perfumes created on the basis of aromatic oils have a pronounced beneficial effect on the skin and the human condition in general;

• Perfume made from essential oils has a persistent and rich aroma, and if made by hand, it is also unique.

• Difficult to store. Bright light, high humidity, too heat negatively affect the properties of the perfume. Even if the conditions are met, perfumes made from essential oils cannot be stored for more than 1 year.

• High opportunity allergic reaction. Essential oils are very hard on the skin and not every skin type will react normally to such a composition. In addition, perfumes made from aromatic oils are contraindicated for pregnant girls.

How perfume is created

Creation of perfume – difficult process, which requires not only attentiveness and long-term preparation of a composition pleasant to the smell, but also the competent combination of all the resulting perfume ingredients with the base.

Oil-based perfumes

If the base of the perfume is oil-based, a selected fragrant bouquet from a mixture of essential oils is mixed with base oil in a 1:1 ratio. First, the selected essential oils are combined with each other in a glass bottle, then the base oil is carefully added there. The bottle should be thoroughly shaken until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, closed with a lid and left in a dark place to “ripen” for 13-15 days.

IMPORTANT. Professional perfumers recommend to obtain a harmonious and persistent aroma use no more than 10 essential oils (on average, no more than 3-4 ingredients per note).

Wax based perfumes

Perfumes that have wax as a base have a solid structure. To create them you will need not only attentiveness, but also some skill. So, the first thing you need to do is prepare the scent itself. Keep in mind that the aroma in this case should be very rich, since it will be diluted with wax (you should get about 40 drops of the essential mixture).

Prepared ether mixture combine with carrier oil (2 teaspoons). As the latter, you can use jojoba, almond, olive, and grape oil.

In order for the mixture to harden and at the same time fully preserve the aroma, it is necessary to maintain a clear ratio between the base oil and wax (1:1).

Melt the wax in a water bath. Add there oil mixture and immediately remove the wax from the heat. Mix the resulting mixture thoroughly until smooth. Pour it into a prepared container for storing perfume: a small bottle made of plastic, glass or metal.

Alcohol based perfumes

The process of creating perfume alcohol based somewhat more complicated than in the first case. Firstly, it is important to strictly observe a certain ratio between the aromatic mixture and alcohol. By the way, here you will need not only alcohol, but also water (preferably distilled).

First, all the notes are prepared and correctly mixed together. Then alcohol and water are added to the container. Remember the ratio that must be observed:

• Essential mixture – 30%;

• Alcohol (95%) – 65%;

• Distilled water – 5%.

How to choose the right composition

Choose suitable composition not so simple, but with a competent approach to the task you can get luxurious bouquet. So, it is important to understand that any perfume consists of three stages of aroma development:

• Top note. This is the first aroma that will be felt when applying perfume. Citrus or unobtrusive notes are often used as the top note. floral scents, which will quickly disappear, “giving way” to the main aroma of perfume.

• Heart note. This is the main idea of ​​the composition, the so-called trail, which is felt after the top note. It is difficult to say which essential oil is best suited for the main aroma, because in this matter everything is entirely individual. For example, it can be flower oils or oils of jasmine, vanilla, nutmeg, etc.

• Base note. Remains on the skin or clothing after the trail has worn off. For the base, the most “powerful” oils are often used, which are very persistent, but do not destroy all the upper layers of aroma: woody, spice, resinous. Sandalwood, vetiver, etc. are perfect as a base note.

When the oil is absorbed into the paper, you can begin to create the composition. Take three strips of oils and inhale the aroma. Don't forget to mix scents with each other to understand which combinations will give you the most pleasant sensations.

Be sure to write down the tested combinations in a notebook, indicating the advantages and disadvantages of certain aromas. Sort through the sample strips until you find the most attractive and pleasant option for your sense of smell. After this, you can begin to create perfumes based on the received recipe. Below is a table of aromatic oils classified depending on their belonging to a particular group of perfume notes.

Natural perfume recipes

Here are some original and unusual recipes perfumes for men and women that you can make with your own hands at home.

Man perfumes

Recipe No. 1 “Cologne water”

Famous perfume original recipe which is kept in the strictest confidence. If you are a connoisseur of such scents, try recreating the legendary cologne. To do this you will need the following essential oils:

• Bergamot (14 drops);

• Orange (8 drops);

• Neroli (8 drops);

• Petitgrain (7 drops);

• Lemon (7 drops);

• Lavender (3 drops).

Recipe No. 2 Aphrodisiac

A luxurious, sensual fragrance for men that is sure to attract the attention of ladies. To create it you will need the following essential oils:

• Cedar (12 drops)

• Sandalwood (11 drops);

• Coriander (10 drops);

• Lavender (5 drops);

• Frankincense (3 drops).

Recipe No. 3

A light but very “active” aroma that awakens the senses. To create it you will need the following oils:

• Juniper – 1 drop;

• Sandalwood – 1 drop;

• Vetiver – 1 drop;

• Lemon – 1 drop;

So, we will talk about natural perfumes and natural perfumers.

About where the border lies between natural, botanical perfumery and all other perfumery.

So, natural is a branch of perfumery that uses substances exclusively extracted from plants (and, rarely, animals) to create fragrances. Uses in the form in which they were obtained: essential oil, absolute, concrete, resinoid, tincture of alcohol or oil, lipstick obtained after enfleurage at home. These extracts, with rare exceptions, are NOT modified, the parts that smell the most are NOT extracted from them, and the individual aromatic molecules are NOT obtained from them, which are then called “natural limonene”. And they use, I repeat, as is, in the form of mixtures of aromatic molecules of composition not identical every time down to the molecule. The fact that this makes ideal standardization impossible is also not standardizable, for example, wines, the composition of which varies from year to year - this is the specificity of a natural product.

It is worth considering that on Russian market Today, in 2010, natural perfumes are not represented. That is, you will not buy them in any offline store. All ideas about “natural oil analogue of Chanel No. 5” and “natural bulk perfume from France” are false advertising. Ideas about “natural limonene” are similar. TO natural perfumes it has nothing to do with how environmentally favorable conditions Lavender grew, from which linalool was obtained for perfume. Once we have a molecule, we move away from natural perfumery. It may not be worse, but it will be done outside the scope of natural perfumery.

IN expensive brands niche and selective perfumery natural substances as is, in the form of absolutes, for example, are certainly used. But in this case, not only natural substances are used. This does not mean that perfumes with artificial molecules are worse. And many believe that it is better, because molecules give the aroma structure, durability, and shine. However, the fact remains that perfumes without artificial molecules and with them are two completely different groups: natural perfumery and, as I call it, “not only natural perfumery.” And usually perfumers who make natural perfumes fully emphasize this. And most often these are perfumers - members Guilds or other private individuals. Large corporations do not engage in natural perfumery, with the exception of small limited editions and small retro projects (for example, in Dmitry Shishov’s LJ you can read about Marie Antoinette’s perfume).

Once again - natural perfumes not better" not-only-natural. They're just different. They live and unfold according to different laws. They may lose in duration of sound, but often win due to the richness of shades. Natural fragrances have a smaller aura, sit closer to the body, and sound more intimate. And yes, they are completely natural. Although I find it funny the arguments sometimes used for natural perfumes such as “I’m tired of breathing chemistry” - my God, when smelling natural perfumes we won’t be “breathing physics”, right?

But it is naturalness that adds olfactory roughness and unevenness to aromas. It is in natural perfumes that you can find your favorite natural aromas, reminiscent of landscapes and childhood. And precisely due to the absence of synthetic molecules in natural perfumes, you will never come across a soapy musky base, a watermelon scent top notes or sweet noose of low quality synthetic flowers. However, back side medals - the special individual character of natural aromatic substances, often perceived as excessive bitterness, pharmaceuticality, brutality. In general, as in all other areas, it is a matter of taste.

Another important point is that all exclusively natural perfumes existing today are something that is emphatically not mass-produced and limited. One might even say anti-mass. The ideology and composition of natural perfumes are exclusively natural ingredients, which by definition are finite and irreproducible. That is, say, harvest rose essential oil different years has a little different chemical composition. If it is used in full, and not in the form of, for example, an isolate, then the perfume will differ slightly from batch to batch. Of course, the aroma of the bouquet of components will be absolutely recognizable, but it is impossible to achieve precision “down to the molecules”. And it’s not necessary, because no one produces natural perfumes in such volume. Natural perfumers - from the most famous and famous, members and founders of the guild of natural perfumers, to lesser-known private masters, have from several boutiques in the world plus online stores to simply online stores based on well-known auctions such as esty.com or ebay.

You can find natural perfumes for sale on the websites of natural perfume stores, at online fairs, where, for example, Roxanne, the founder of the Illuminated Perfume brand, and Joanne Bassett sell her fragrances. Most famous perfumers, who create exclusively natural perfumes - Mandy Aftel and Alexandra Balahoutis, present their creations in their own offline stores. Everything else is small in-house online stores. So and only so on this moment natural perfumes are presented.

This, again, encourages us to consider the medal with different sides. What is good about the fact that perfumes are created by masters who are their own masters, both in the choice of ideas and in the choice of ingredients, and what can be inconvenient about this. We'll talk about this in.

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16.05.13 10:10

Modern perfumers have a very difficult time. Buyers are becoming more and more demanding, synthetic fragrances are becoming more and more commonplace. Unfortunately, new fragrances are just analogues of previously known compositions. And I really want to put a drop of unique perfume on my skin and listen to it, and listen, and listen.

So that all day long, so that men turn around, and women come up and, lowering their eyes to the floor, ask: “ girl, what is your smell? I want to smell like that too...»

Why natural smells?

Alas and ah, such an effect can only be produced natural fragrances, such as timid vanilla, daring chocolate or teasing citrus. Of course, such perfumes are more expensive synthetic analogues. But it’s worth it, because perfume is a complement to the image.

Expensive perfume will highlight your individuality. And if synthetic compositions gradually disappear, then natural perfume slowly reveals itself on the skin and shimmers with all its facets, like a priceless diamond.

Of course, it is easier to create synthetics, but Chanel, Guerlain, Balmain and Estee Lauder Natural perfumes are still produced, often to order and in limited quantities. These perfumes are the most valuable acquisition for connoisseurs. They do not need advertising, they are an exceptional and very expensive product.

What flavors are there?

However, it is not only prestige that pushes people to buy natural aromas. It has been known since ancient times therapeutic effect aromatic oils. So, iris, violet and hyacinth - natural aphrodisiacs, vanilla gives pleasant relaxation, and citrus fruits tone.

Many ladies are simply intoxicated by the smell of chocolate. This aroma invigorates in the morning and will allow you to attract male attention during the whole day. After all, the stronger sex has a recognized sweet tooth and simply goes crazy from the aroma of cookies and cocoa.

The most common dark chocolate scents are Covet by Sarah Jessica Parker, Jil Sander perfume by Jil, Mat Chocolat by Masaki Matsushima and Escada Desire Me. The five aromas similar to the smell of white chocolate begin perfume compositions from Elizabeth Arden, these are 5th Avenue Nights and Provocative Interlude. Then Britney Spears Fantasy perfume, Omnia from Bvlgari and Rose Aoud from Micallef.

The smell of cocoa beans and coffee beans can be caught in the perfumes Clinique Happy To Be, Eau de Charlotte Annick Goutal, Jo Malone Black Vetyver Café and Cafe Intenso from the Parfums Café brand.

In any case, no matter what scent you choose, the main thing is that it correctly complements your image and attracts the attention of others.

Natural perfumes are unique aromas of nature itself, for the production of which only natural essential oils are used. Raw materials for natural perfumes must only be of high quality, so natural perfumes are quite expensive. The development of a fragrance alone (without purchasing raw materials, producing perfume, developing and releasing packaging) costs 500 - 1000 dollars.

The fact is that in the production of absolutely natural essential oils, endemic plants are used, which are grown under strict control on special plantations under open air(and not in greenhouses, like ordinary plants).

Natural perfumes contain not only essential oils - their composition also includes concretes, absolutes and floral waxes. Concrete is a substance that is obtained by distillation or distillation of natural components (for example, myrrh, sandalwood, incense, etc.). An absolute is a part of a concrete that can dissolve in alcohol.

The naturalness of the perfumes in question can play a bad joke on the buyer. The fact is that natural ingredients are changeable (the fragrant composition is influenced not only by the growing conditions of the raw materials, but also by the conditions of its assembly), so a perfume purchased again may not live up to expectations. But in any case, the buyer can be sure that he has purchased an exclusive product.

The process of creating natural perfumes is complex - such perfumes are created through numerous trials and errors and require special skill from the perfumer. And although natural perfumes are made strictly according to a recipe, to obtain a perfume from such variable components, special requirements are placed on the master.

There are two ways to create natural perfumes - these methods are used by all famous luxury brands. The first method is to create fragrances “in one go” (1.5 hours after creating the base note, the heart note is “layered” on it, and after another 1.5 hours, the starting note). When using perfume, all these notes are revealed in the reverse order.

The second way is to create all three notes separately. This method has become widespread, because the resulting notes are successfully used in other perfumes.

For those who love and appreciate excellent scents, but are not ready to shell out big bucks for them, the modern perfume market offers perfumes called synthetic. Such perfumes are much cheaper, because many natural components are replaced with synthetic analogues.

Interestingly, the production of artificial perfumes began only in the mid-19th century. The successes achieved by chemists have made it possible to create synthetic substitutes for almost all perfume components (especially rare ones). And in 1905, the Frenchman Francois Coty created the first synthetic perfume “L" Origane, mixing synthetic and natural components in one bottle. The first aldehydic aroma became worldwide famous perfume « ».

Natural and synthetic perfumes differ not only in price - they also have different impact on the body and behavior. Synthetic perfumes can only affect psycho-emotional state person. At the same time, natural perfumes, which contain natural essential oils, also have a therapeutic effect on a person.

Lovers of natural perfumes pay special attention to aphrodisiac essential oils, which can have a truly magical effect on men. It's about, in particular, about the oils of bigardia, tuberose, neroli, violet, hyacinth, and iris.