10.05.2019
Natural perfume: lively scent. natural smells
Whether it's a preservative in day cream or a flavor enhancer in fresh yogurt, we tend to be negative about chemicals. Therefore, it is not surprising that synthetic components in fragrances cause us distrust. Perfumery expert Oksana Zaitseva explains why "synthetics" in perfumery are good, not evil.
perfume scandal
The second half of the 19th century is the time when discoveries in the field of physics, mathematics, mechanics led to the creation of the first submarines, mechanical pianos, cash registers, and in the field of chemistry - to new technologies in the oil industry. Advances in this industry allowed perfumers to get into their palette something that completely turned their art upside down. In 1868, coumarin was synthesized - a colorless, alcohol-soluble crystal with the smell of freshly cut hay, which gave rise to the use of synthetic components. Thanks to coumarin, the house of Houbigan created the famous Fougere Royale at this time. Soon the world was shocked by another "synthetic" masterpiece - the great and persistent Guerlain Jicky based on synthesized vanillin, coumarin and heliotropin (a crystal with the smell of vanilla and cinnamon). It was a shock for those who are accustomed to the gentle sound of perfume. Despite the fact that this experiment of Emme Guerlain turned out to be successful, perfumers were wary of "synthetics" and still preferred natural essential oils. Some accused the synthesized notes of being rude, others honestly admitted that they were not yet ready to work with them because of the fear of novelty. There was a discussion that they supposedly make perfume compositions more standard and less expressive. But it is from the moment of the creation of the first artificial components that perfumery ceases to be just an art, it moves into the framework of science and scientific research. Until the 1950s and 1960s, perfume formulas were 80% natural and 20% artificial, according to Zola Ange, an employee at the Osmothèque perfume store in France. Now the situation has changed exactly the opposite.New possibilities of modern perfumery
Why was there a need to obtain synthetic fragrances at all? Perfumers all over the world would like to have essential oils of peony, freesia, lily of the valley, lilac in their collections. But these plants do not give up their precious oil. None of the existing methods for extracting aromatic substances from natural raw materials - enfleurage, steam distillation, direct pressing (for example, from citrus peel), solvent extraction - does not allow obtaining a substance that fully conveys the aroma of these plants. For example, the extraction yield of lily of the valley essential oil is negligible - only 0.06%, but even the resulting substance is far from the original in terms of smell - when the odorous substance is extracted, the aroma is transformed. Only synthetics allow you to create perfumes with the smell of this and many other flowers, as well as fruits and even vegetables. For example, rhubarb is just as resistant to extraction as lily of the valley, but perfumers still use it in their creations - largely due to "synthetics". This is how Hermès perfumer Christine Nagel described the rhubarb for Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate: “The basis of my rhubarb was the scent of lantana flowers. It is similar to the smell of passion fruit, which echoes the rhubarb. Lanthanum flowers are easy to extract. I framed its natural aroma molecules with synthetic notes.”Synthetic fragrances also make it possible to create notes that do not exist at all in natural raw materials - greens, most fruits (except citrus), as well as aquatic and salty, which are especially popular with perfumers today. For example, sometimes in the description of a fragrance you can see notes of champagne, vodka, rum. Of course, they do not exist in nature, but there are natural ingredients that help to recreate them. In this case, brandy cake.
Why are synthetic ingredients important?
Reason 1. Protection of nature
Synthetic notes are also intended to replace those natural ingredients, the extraction of which is prohibited or restricted by international organizations. For example, components of animal origin - musk and amber. In 1891, the French scientist Albert Baur synthesized a new group of fragrant substances with the smell of musk, the so-called nitromusks. They quickly entered production and soon completely replaced natural ones.Reason 2. Opportunity for experimentation
Another reason why synthetic notes are so important is the ability to experiment with them. "Synthetics" often give unexpected results, especially in unusual quantities. There is a legend that it was because of Ernest Bo's overdose of aldehyde with the smell of clean linen brought in from the frost that we got the world masterpiece - Chanel No. 5 perfume. No less interesting is the legend of the creation of another fragrance - Poison by Christian Dior. It is distinguished by a high content of damascones - substances that are a component of the essential oil of roses - and has a sweet fruity, floral-wine smell of dried fruits, with pronounced shades of currant, honey and tobacco. According to rumors, the extreme amount of damascons in the composition of the fragrance was the fault of Flechier's assistant perfumer, Natalie. Givaudan perfumer Jean Guichard admitted that she sent the wrong sample to the president of Parfums Christian Dior, Maurice Roger. But what was the amazement of the Givaudan workers when, not knowing how to explain the error in the delivery, they received a wonderful review from Roger: “This is fantastic!”. It turned out that the assistant introduced a Damascon solution into the formula of the perfume being developed not at a concentration of only 1% (99% alcohol and 1% fragrance), but pure 100%!Reason 3. Synthetic components are stable
Synthetic components have one significant advantage over natural ones - solutions of artificial fragrances are always the same in composition, which cannot be said about extracts from flower lipsticks, concretes, etc. Synthetic ingredients are clean, without impurities, behave more stably during production, do not enter into unnecessary reactions with other perfume components, which allows you to control the quality of the compositions produced. And this is very important when releasing the same name of perfume for several years and even decades.Reason 4. Synthetic components are beneficial
In addition, synthetic ingredients are more profitable for manufacturers. One kilogram of rose essential oil costs about 5,000-10,000 euros, and Grasse rose Centifolia - up to 30,000. A synthetic analogue will cost producers around 10-15 euros per kilogram! Although there are synthetic components that are superior in price to their natural counterparts.However, no matter how developed production is today, scientists have not yet found the right way to recreate the smells of essential oils of patchouli, vetiver, cedar and more. etc. And it is unlikely that someday it will be possible (and necessary) to completely replace natural fragrant substances with artificial ones. But without them, perfumery and its lovers would have lost a lot.
1. Aroma Vertine, FriedModin; 2. Black Phantom fragrance, Kilian; 3. Aroma Rhubarbe Ecarlate, Hermès; 4. Aroma Poison, Christian Dior; 5. Aroma Tentation, Eisenberg Paris; 6. Aroma Escentric 04, Escentric Molecules; 7. Perfume Qom Chilom, Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777.
Good news for natural lifestyle supporters: today it is possible to abandon the usual synthetic perfumes and use natural perfumes. Their choice in Russia is still small, but this is only the beginning.
A bit of theory
Every day we are surrounded by hundreds and thousands of smells, among which the aromas of perfumery products occupy not the last place. What are they made up of? In other words, what is perfume? It is a combination of fragrant essential oils or artificial aromatic compounds, as well as fixing and dissolving agents. Together, all this is the product that is able to give our body or some things a light or rich pleasant smell.
Depending on the concentration of essential oils, the following types of fragrances are distinguished: perfumes - with an oil concentration of 15–40%, perfume water (8–15%), toilet water (4–8%) and cologne, or “Cologne” water (2–5 %). It is easy to guess that the less the aromatic component is diluted, the more persistent the aroma will be.
At the origins
Perfumery as the art of creating scents and as a profession appeared a long time ago. For thousands of years, the masters of this craft have studied and gained experience, and nature generously gave inspiration and the necessary materials. The creations of ancient perfumers were used in temples, palaces and ordinary residential buildings - this is evidenced by vessels with traces of incense, which are still found during excavations. From simple combinations of fragrant natural oils, the masters gradually moved on to the creation of exquisite and complex distillates, perfumes and perfumed cosmetic products. The results of their work brought diversity to the life of our ancestors, and today it is impossible to imagine human existence without perfumery.
If in ancient times perfumers used plant aromatic substances in their original form, then since the middle of the 19th century they have already learned how to extract individual components from them, such as vanillin and coumarin (a substance obtained from beans). Some time later, methods were invented to synthesize such substances without the use of natural ingredients at all - this is how the first artificial flavors were obtained. From that moment, by the way, the history of modern perfumery began.
Today, with synthetics being more cost effective than organic materials, perfumers have almost universally switched to developing perfumes that are wholly or partly artificial. However, products made from natural ingredients continue to be created and find their customers. Over the past decade, interest in organic perfumery has increased, so perfumers are again turning to centuries-old traditions, but with modern knowledge and experience.
natural perfume
As such, classification and standards for natural fragrances do not exist. There is just a general understanding of what "natural perfumery" is. This means that the product is made in accordance with the classic tradition of creating fragrances, but at the same time consists of 100% natural ingredients without any flavors, preservatives or other artificial substances.
A few words about alcohol in perfume composition. To avoid the excise tax that is levied on any alcohol-containing product, it is replaced or denatured (special substances are added to make the alcohol technical, unsuitable for food consumption). So, at this stage, there is a big difference between natural and ordinary perfumes: for the denaturation of alcohol in the organic production of perfumes, diethyl phthalate (a substance that may contain dioxins - persistent poisons called "premature aging hormones") is not used, but natural substances are chosen, for example lavandin is the essential oil of lavender.
Where to find natural perfume
If you want to buy a perfume made from natural ingredients, look for the words all natural ingredients (English - all ingredients are natural). Such products will cost more, and it will take more time to search for them - you can hardly find something like this in an ordinary Russian perfume shop.
Ingredients written as imitation or natural synthetic compounds mean that these synthetic chemicals are used as analogues of natural substances. A very small number of perfumes are eco-labeled, but there are such fragrances: if you search, you can find perfumes certified by Ecocert and even Demeter (My Tao). It happens that products from the all natural ingredients category do not have a certificate just because the manufacturing company does not have the funds for this expensive procedure.
Synthetic perfumes, of course, have a stronger, richer scent that lasts substantially longer. True perfume aficionados - those who are accustomed to Chanel and other fashionable modern brands - after trying natural perfumes, sometimes complain that they do not have the same complex composition. There is a reason for this: most organic fragrances are made up of about 20 different ingredients, while conventional perfumes can contain up to 200 ingredients! And yes, natural scents are indeed less persistent than artificial ones.
Here are a few brands that create organic perfumes in the West: Acorelle, Farfalla, Florascent, Florame, Honoré Des Prés, Lashmi, Melvita, Provida organics, Taoasis (Aqua di Tao, My Tao). Unfortunately, only a few can be found in Russia so far. of them (Florame, Acorelle, Melvita), however, the trend is that their number will increase, because the market for natural cosmetics and perfumery is growing, as is the demand for these products.
A few words about allergies
The appearance of an allergic reaction or irritation to biospirits, as, indeed, in the case of any cosmetic product, cannot be completely excluded. If you are sensitive to various allergens, then before purchasing a new product, it is worth testing it on your wrist. It is better to do this in the evening, and in the morning see how your body reacts to the new flavor.
Some natural aromatic components are very strong allergens. For example, oakmoss extract (Evernia prunastri extract), tree moss extract (Evernia furfuracea extract), cinnamal (Cinnamal). Therefore, serious manufacturers of natural perfumes try to avoid the use of such substances. In addition, in accordance with European regulations, which, by the way, are getting tougher with each update, the handling of high-risk ingredients for allergy sufferers is strictly regulated. A list of 26 fragrances has been created (today there are heated discussions about expanding it to 127 substances!) that can cause allergies, and if they are part of a perfume, then their names must be written on the packaging. This is a significant change - before it was enough to specify fragrance / parfum, which meant a unique combination of fragrances (the secret formula of perfumes).
If the new rules really come into force, then this will significantly affect the very composition of spirits. So, for example, some allergen oils, including rose, lavender and clove - the main ones in perfumery, will be allowed for use in perfumes only in the amount of 0.01% of the total volume. Such innovations have a twofold effect: on the one hand, they significantly affect the production process, limiting the possibilities of perfumers, and on the other hand, they reduce the risk of irritation to perfume products. In any case, an allergy sufferer usually knows what the reaction is, and he should read the composition of the product on the package more carefully. fragrance before learning how to use it. Fortunately, there is already a fairly large selection of natural fragrances on the international market today.
Today I have an interesting article for you in an unusual format - an interview. Talented natural perfumer Olga Podgorbunskaya(pictured right) shares valuable insights on:
- how to create natural perfume,
- how to choose the right fragrance
- how to tell a real essential oil from a fake
- and even how to learn to listen to yourself!
It's amazing how much useful information can be gleaned from Olga's story! For example, I learned about unusual ways of using essential oils, about their competent combination with each other, about the quality of modern perfumes and, most importantly, about how to create unique natural perfumes at home! Looking ahead, I will say that Olga made natural spirits for me and at the end of the article I will share my impression of them!
Well, now is the time to finally move on to the interview and plunge into the magical world of perfumery…
I : Olya, thank you for taking the time to interview. I think it will be very interesting! To begin with, please tell us about what natural perfumes are and how they differ from those that we see on the shelves of perfume stores?
Olga : Natural perfumes are made only from natural raw materials - essential oils and other natural ingredients. They do not contain harmful chemical additives. Perfume from the store, as a rule, does not contain natural essential oils, and consists entirely of "chemical fragrances" synthesized in laboratories. That is why they are called synthetic perfumes. Of course, real expensive perfumes contain essential oils, but they are very expensive - thousands of dollars! What we have in Russia is even within 10-15 thousand rubles. for sale, contains synthetics. Among other things, in the composition of synthetic perfumes there are substances-fixatives, for greater durability of the aroma. It's amber and musk.
I Q: What are these substances?
Olga : Ambergris is a substance that is extracted from the feces of sperm whales. And musk is a substance that is produced by the glands of animals (such as beaver, musk deer) to attract individuals of the opposite sex and mark the territory. Although artificial versions of these substances have now been synthesized, most perfume manufacturers still use natural fixatives derived from animals.
I tested my perfume and found that it does indeed contain amber and musk! Incl. Shiseido, Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Dior, Gucci, Versace, Nina Ricci, Narciso Rodriguez. There was only one bottle without fixatives - Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger. But it turned out that this is just a happy exception (other Tommy perfumes contain fixatives).
I: Yeah! To be honest, I didn’t know that perfumes could contain substances from sperm whale feces and animal glands. There is something to think about! And chemical flavorings... They must be harmful!?
Olga : Yes, synthetic flavors enter the body through the pores. May cause allergies with prolonged use or some other problems.
I: What about natural perfumes? What do they contain besides essential oils?
Olga: In nuturoparfumery there are several types of products - these are natural perfumes (essential oils + base oil), nuturodecolone (essential oils + alcohol) and flavored water (essential oils + water). According to the degree of resistance, they follow each other, from the first to the last. Perfumes are the most persistent and at the same time the most gentle. I personally do not like cologne very much - a very pungent smell!
I: It turns out that in natural perfumes there are only essential oils and base oil? But how to apply them, because the oil is fatty?
Olga: Very light oils are used as base oils - jojoba or almond. They are light in texture, and when applied to the skin are quickly absorbed, dry and do not leave stains on clothes. But sunflower, wheat oil is better not to use - they are really heavy and fatty.
I: And due to what is the durability of natural perfumes achieved if they do not contain fixatives?
Olga: Uses essential oil volatility data instead of fixatives for durability. Volatility is how quickly an oil evaporates and loses flavor. Essential oils fall into three categories: high, medium and low volatility. ( Me: the lower the volatility, the more stable the oil). It is believed that perfumes must necessarily combine oils from all three categories ...
Oils of low volatility include essential oils of sandalwood, frankincense, jasmine, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, etc. Medium volatility - oils of pine, spruce, fir, geranium, oregano, etc. High volatility - all citrus fruits, as well as basil, bergamot, tea tree, etc.
I: Why is it needed? Why can't you only use low volatility oils to make the perfume last as long as possible?
Olga: This combination is necessary in order to fix the fragrance. That is, to get a stable and at the same time harmonious composition. Persistence also depends on the concentration of the essential oil in the perfume. You can create a highly concentrated and persistent perfume, but the aroma will be heavy, not harmonious.
I: Is there any proportion in which oils of different volatility get into perfumes?
Olga: Yes, preferably in equal proportions. Let's say there are two types of oils of high volatility, two of medium and two of low. But this is very conditional! If sandalwood doesn’t fit into your composition, although it is a low volatility oil that you don’t have enough for an ideal proportion, then you can do without it. The perfume will just evaporate a little faster. It's not scary)
I: And what is the principle to select essential oils in the composition, in addition to volatility?
Olga: I'll probably start with the action of essential oils, since natural perfumes are not only aesthetics, but also a preventive effect on the body. According to the psychological effects of oils are divided into relaxing, tonic, harmonizing and adaptogenic. You can "dance from it" and create perfumes for their intended purpose.
I: With the first two, everything is clear, but with adaptogenic and harmonizing, I think we need to figure it out ...
Olga: Adaptogenic oils are used in stressful, post-stress situations to restore the body ... But this is by no means a treatment. Do not confuse natural perfumery and aromatherapy. Natural perfumery does not heal, but creates a pleasant aroma, harmonizes the internal state, improves mood ...
Harmonizing oils are unique in their action. There is, for example, rose oil. In a dull state and depression, it improves mood, in an excited state it calms, in a breakdown it tones up ... That is, it adapts to your internal state and balances it ...
I: Great! Everyone run for rose oil!
Olga: Keep in mind that real rose oil is very highly valued and costs a lot of money. Imagine - to produce 1 kg of this oil, 4 tons of raw materials are required! And the price of oil is 3000 rubles. for 1-10 ml. (depending on quality and manufacturer).
I: Wow! Yes, it would be very interesting to know how to choose the right oils and not fall for a fake? Rose oil, for example, can be for 100 rubles. buy at the pharmacy. Now I know it's fake...
Olga: For the quality of the oil, I advise you to focus on the country of origin. Buy the oil that is produced in the country where the plant grows. For example, in Russia you can safely buy oils of fir, spruce, pine, chamomile. Citrus oils are Europe or Asia. Sandalwood, jasmine, lotus, ylang-ylang - this is exactly Asia (India, Thailand ...). If you see jasmine oil produced in the Moscow region, then this is not an option, because we do not grow jasmine on such a scale.
I: That is, you need to look around the country ...
Olga: Yes. But in Asia, you can get a fake. Sandalwood oil is often counterfeited. Therefore, you need to focus on trusted manufacturers. For example, Karel Hadek (Czech Republic). There, the control of raw material suppliers is very strict - these oils are used by aromatherapists for treatment. I order directly from the dealer, from the factory. There are also Vivisan (Switzerland), ATOK (Czech Republic), Styx (Austria) companies. They are also appreciated. The rest is that in pharmacies, it is not recommended to buy.
Karel Hadek oils
The most popular way to make essential oils is by distillation. Under the influence of steam, the plant cells are destroyed, the ether with steam rises up, and then flows into the container through a tube. The ether is simply separated from the water, because. he is lighter. And the water that remains is hydrolat, which is great to use as a facial tonic. The other two methods are spin-drying (for citrus oils) and enfleurage (for delicate flower petals).
I: And what is the average price tag for oils from trusted manufacturers?
Olga: Well, they have an average of 600 rubles. for 10 ml. Plus, of course, it depends on the euro now. This is on average. There are more valuable oils. Rose oil, for example. If, for example, you see rose oil for 150 rubles / 10 ml, then it is definitely diluted or synthetic.
I Q: What does diluted mean? What do they dilute?
Olga: Usually fatty oil. It turns out not essential, but cosmetic little. Well, synthetic is understandable - with the use of artificial aromatic additives. If you see pineapple, apple, strawberry, raspberry and other berry oils, then this is definitely synthetic. Since this raw material simply does not contain such an amount of ether to extract it on an industrial scale. There is also oil from natural raw materials, but which is extracted using chemical reagents, which reduces the cost and speeds up production. But in such an oil there will be harmful impurities of the reagent.
I: How quickly can you feel the effect of essential oils? Let's say a tonic effect ...
Olga: Depends on the specific song. There are alarm clocks. There are a lot of citrus fruits, mint maybe ... They literally within 20-30 minutes have an invigorating effect on the body. There are relaxing perfumes. There are more oils of low volatility and they act on the body a little more slowly - within 1-2 hours. But it is not at all necessary to dwell on the action of oils! I advise you to choose those flavors that you like! Considering, of course, their complementarity.
I: Complimentary?
Olga: There is such a thing as complementarity, that is, the compatibility of oils. Oils of the same type mix very well. For example, citrus fruits with each other, spruce with each other. And one plant. For example, neroli is orange flower oil, petitgrain is orange leaf, plus orange oil itself. Since this is one plant, according to the chemical composition of the oils from its various components, they are perfectly suited to each other. To create more complex compositions, there are special oil complementarity tables on the Internet ...
Olga's magic chest
I: Are you sure you can navigate without a table?
Olga: Yes, it is a matter of experience and involvement in the process. If you like to do something, then the information is absorbed very quickly. So I'm pretty good at complementarity and I select successful combinations of fragrances to create perfume compositions. And so you can go to the Internet and see the notes that are contained in the spirits you like. And then try to recreate the composition in your own natural perfume. You may not find any rare ones, but it's not scary.
I: Are there any oils that cannot be combined with each other at all, otherwise it will be bad?
Olga: Well, for example, I can say that mint has a very, very strong aroma and this oil must be added with care so as not to overpower all other aromas. Let's say you take 1 drop of mint and orange, then you won't feel the orange. With cloves, cinnamon is the same story ...
Me: Can a bad combination harm your health?
Olga: No, there should not be any discord. If you do not fall under contraindications. Now I will tell about them. With great care, essential oils should be used by people with epilepsy, hyperexcitability, pregnant women (in the first 4 weeks), people with hypertension and hypotension. For example, cinnamon oil increases blood pressure and is contraindicated for hypertensive patients. Lavender, on the other hand, lowers blood pressure. In general, if you want to make your own perfume, it is advisable to read about the effect of the selected oil first.
There may also be allergic reactions. Most often, if you have never had an allergy to anything, then it is unlikely that there will be any reaction to oils. But if there are allergic reactions to food or pollen, then I always do a skin test. Take 1 drop of essential oil to 4 drops of base oil, mix and apply to sensitive areas of the skin (elbow, wrists). If within 4 hours there is no reaction, then everything is in order.
I: As I understood from your story, is it possible to make natural perfumes on your own, at home? Does this require any special skills?
Olga: Yes, of course, you can do it yourself! But there must be a large selection of oils to form interesting compositions. Although there is a way out - as I said, you can find a fragrance you like in a store, find its constituent notes on the Internet and buy these particular essential oils to create a similar fragrance at home. There should also be a desire to study the correct combinations and effects of oils. All this gives me great pleasure!
I took a course in natural perfumery, because there are a lot of recipes on the Internet and you can get lost in them. Many of them are not accurate. For example, you may see almond essential oil in a recipe. Although it meant fatty almond oil, because. ethereal is poisonous (there is prussic acid) and aromatherapists use it in micro-micro doses for certain purposes. If you create perfumes at home, then I advise you to read what kind of oil it is and what properties it has!
I: Now, I think it's time to move on to the process of making perfume! Let's say I have essential oils and I want to make natural perfumes. Where to begin?
Olga: As I said, light almond or jojoba oils should be used as a base. Definitely odorless, that is, refined oils! so as not to spoil the flavor. Let's say you have jojoba oil. Next, you need to add essential oils to it. The concentration is as follows: if these are natural perfumes, then essential oils should not exceed 50% of the volume, this is the maximum. I usually make 20% perfume. You need to understand that there is no such “fan” from these spirits as from industrial ones. It's more of a light slip.
If we make natural cologne, then the concentration is not more than 15-20%, because. contains alcohol, and it in itself has a strong effect on the skin. If the concentration is exceeded, it can burn the skin. Well, aromavodichka ... there is a concentration of 10-15%.
Pure essential oils are not used! The exception is tea tree, sandalwood ... But use them carefully!
I: And how is the process of choosing essential oils in the composition? How to choose your fragrance?
Olga: This is the most interesting - the choice of flavor) I think that this is a kind of meditation. You need to listen only to yourself and not be guided by other people's tastes. When I give clients to taste fragrances, I don’t say in advance what kind of oil it is. So that bias does not arise and a person can abstract from beliefs and stereotypes. It is advisable to close your eyes and just inhale the aroma. It's a soothing process! There is only one criterion - like it or not. I usually ask what color or image a fragrance is associated with. It also helps in the selection. For example, there may be an association with a sunny beach, sea breeze. Or, conversely, with my grandmother's old carpet))
I: Probably, at 3-4 aromas, the smells begin to mix. What to do?
Olga: It happens, yes. I traditionally give coffee to sniff.
I: And there is an opinion that perfume should be tried on the skin. Because on the skin they are revealed in a special way. What do you think about it?
Olga: In fact yes. The skin is a little different. The same fragrance will play differently on your skin and mine. But the difference is not so strong.
I: How long does natural perfume last?
Olga: The shelf life of natural perfume depends on the concentration. For 20% spirits, this is 6 months. For 50% already 1-1.5 years. After that, essential oils can evaporate, and the base oil can go rancid. But the essential oil itself is stored for 1-3 years, depending on the type. You need to store with dark glass, in the refrigerator and preferably in a separate container so that the products do not absorb the smell of oils. By the way, so that the perfume does not “get bored”, it is advisable to change the fragrance after 2-4 months. Otherwise, the body quickly gets used to the aroma and essential oils no longer affect the mental state. And in general, it is recommended to take a break from essential oils from time to time.
I: In principle, this rule applies to everything in the body. Even if you use natural creams, from time to time you need to give your skin a rest and not apply anything to it. And of course, the affinities themselves must be alternated so that the skin does not get used to their action and does not stop performing its natural functions. Also with food. You do not need to chew something all the time, because. the digestive system needs to rest.
Olga: Yes exactly.
I: How persistent are such spirits?
Olga: On average, natural perfumes retain fragrance on the skin for 2-4 hours. By the way, from the moment of manufacture, 2-4 weeks should pass for the perfume to infuse. During this time, the aroma will finally form and open.
I: I think readers are already concerned about the question - how much does it cost to create natural perfumes? I mean, if you entrust their creation to you?
Olga: It all depends on the composition. If there are no exclusive oils in the composition, then the price is on average 350 rubles. More expensive perfumes can cost 600-800 rubles. And up to 1000 rubles. with exclusive oils - roses, sandalwood, neroli ... Well, that is, at least 350 rubles. for 20% perfume.
I : It's not that expensive considering it's a natural and personal perfume! I correctly understood that modern perfumes from stores never contain natural essential oils at all?
A bit of history. In ancient times, people set fire to branches of odorous plants (juniper, incense) and smoked space with incense. Then, in the East, they began to boil plants in oil and rub with fragrant oil. Much later, Avicenna invented alcohol, and then distillation appeared and essential oils began to be obtained, which were mixed with alcohol and used exclusively as medicines. Perfume came to Russia from Europe only in the 19th century.
I: Interesting) Is it possible to make natural perfumes with a masculine scent?
Olga: Certainly! In general, the division of fragrances into men's and women's is very conditional! Many men like sweet scents, and this is absolutely normal. My method of choosing essential oils, when a person focuses not on stereotypes, but on their feelings, works flawlessly. For both women and men)
I: And how did you come to natural perfumery?
Olga: The most important thing that pushed me was the desire to find a good perfume. For a while, like a ghost, I went from one perfume shop to another. Once at work, we were presented with certificates at the Central Department Store for 20,000 rubles. And I bought myself expensive perfume for 15,000 rubles. But there was something wrong with them too... Then I started looking for information - is it possible to make perfume for myself and what do they consist of?
As a result, I found a natural perfume course and realized that this is what I need! Passed it. I immediately found a good supplier of natural oils. You know, when you want to do something, everything somehow develops by itself) Then everything started to spin and I started doing it. In addition, I wanted to do some creative work. To make something with your own hands is pleasant, useful, feminine.
I: And finally, can you tell us a little about the ways of using essential oils?
Olga: For example, tea tree oil has a whitening effect and can be added to toothpastes and powders. And a mixture of clove oil, orange and water is a great mosquito repellent! I love baths with oils (4 drops of essential oil per bath), but in order for the oil to be evenly distributed in the water, it must first be mixed with 1 tbsp. l. honey or salt.
Bay oil is very good to use in hair masks, it activates hair follicles. Mix 1 tbsp. l almond oil with 2 drops of bay essential oil, heat in a water bath, apply on the scalp and wrap with a towel or cap for 30 minutes. As a hair rinse, I like to use an aqueous solution of apple cider vinegar with oils. For 1 liter of water - 1 tbsp of vinegar and 2-3 drops of rose, ylang-ylang or other oils.
Palmarosa oil is good for the face, it moisturizes. For problematic skin - rosemary and tea tree oils. Around the eyes I use jojoba oil. For the body - almond with the addition of any essential oil to taste (I love cinnamon).
As you already understood, there are hundreds of ways to use it. I have loved essential oils since childhood and use them extensively. And now a new aspect of the use of essential oils has appeared. This is aromadesign. For example, when you enter a store and it smells very delicious. Your mood rises and you want to buy, buy, buy))) There are special aroma mixtures for shops, festive celebrations and even for negotiations. To make people calm...
I :... and lost vigilance)))
Olga: Yes) I lost my vigilance for a while. There is such a profession - aroma designer. They create fragrances for shops. cafes, supermarkets… A very interesting direction. In the West it is more actively used. At home, you can use an aroma lamp or a diffuser. For an aroma lamp I use about 8-10 drops per area of 30 m2. When choosing a lamp, you need to take into account such points. So that the bowl is one-piece (not collapsible) and deep. And the distance between the base of the bowl and the recess was optimal. If it is large, then the water will not heat up well. If it is small, then the water with oils will boil, which is not good!
I: And how do you feel about Indian aroma sticks?
Olga: By the way, I recently read about them that their smoke is carcinogenic. Ideally, the sticks should contain only natural rolled herbs. But in fact it is not so. It seems to me that when the smell is too sharp and the smoke is black, then this is not it. I have now stopped using chopsticks. I light the lamp more ...
I: Thank you very much for the interesting story, Olya! It's obvious that you really like what you do. I wish you further creative development and inner harmony...
Following the results of our meeting, Olya made my first natural perfume for me:
My natural perfume: sandalwood + vanilla + jasmine + tangerine + lemon
I can say that it was a special experience! Firstly, the very process of choosing perfumes is real magic) Everything happens in a very pleasant, relaxed atmosphere ... You close your eyes, inhale the aromas and listen to your soul. It's really like meditation) Olya, as a mentor, is always there. She asks about the way, color or feeling associated with this or that fragrance. And then he forms perfumes from those fragrances that evoked the most pleasant emotions in me and which, at the same time, are combined with each other in terms of durability and harmony of perfumes.
It is very interesting to watch how a fragrance is created step by step from scratch .... First, we add a couple of drops of sandalwood, then a little sweet vanilla and jasmine, a drop of fresh mandarin and lemon… With each step, the fragrance changes. And in the end, here it is, my fragrance - orientally spicy and at the same time fresh! Only mine, unique. And completely natural. This is a special feeling - when I know how this fragrance was created, I recognize every note in it and I like every note, as I chose it myself. Nothing to add, nothing to add...
In general, I am delighted with my new perfumes and the very process of their creation! I heartily recommend you try making your own perfume. Independently or with the help of Olga's experienced hands. It's worth it)
Olga Podgorbunskaya's group in Vkontakte.
Many perfume lovers know that in the perfume world there is a division into natural and synthetic perfumes. At the same time, synthetics are sometimes contemptuously called the word "chemistry". Yes, it is difficult to argue with the word "chemistry". Here only contempt here is superfluous. After all, many fashionable and popular fragrances, which are recognized in the world as real perfume masterpieces, are of synthetic origin. In this article, we would like to analyze the question of how natural perfumes differ from synthetic counterparts.
If you do not want to use synthetic perfumes, then you will have to completely switch to natural perfumes. But remember that natural perfumes are by definition expensive, because the original high-end components simply cannot be cheap. Their receipt is associated with large financial, labor and time costs, which is reflected in the final cost of natural perfumes.
Hindus can tell you that natural essential oils are God's creation. Without going into theological fabrications, we note that the natural oils that make up natural perfumes are extracted from plants that do not grow in greenhouses, but in the natural environment, as a result of which we can talk about the limited nature of this resource. In addition to essential oils, natural perfumery includes floral waxes, absolutes and concretes. And if everything is clear with floral waxes, then the rest of the terms require clarification. Concretes are substances obtained by distillation or distillation of natural components, such as myrrh, sandalwood, frankincense, and so on. And absolutes are called the part of the concrete, which dissolves in alcohol. The process of creating natural perfumes is accompanied by strict adherence to recipes, proportions, sequences of adding essential oils. All this requires considerable experience and professionalism from the perfumer. But in the end we get a truly unsurpassed smell.
Unique natural perfumes are obtained only through trial and error. After all, mixing certain essential oils does not guarantee a 100% high-quality result. Therefore, good natural perfumes are truly an elite product, which, by definition, cannot be consumer goods. After all, natural raw materials are a limited commodity with a high price. In addition, it is impossible to make an identical fragrance twice from natural raw materials. This is due to the fact that the aromatic bouquet of flowers and herbs varies depending on many factors, including the weather conditions under which they were collected.
As you can see, natural fragrances are very complex, but that's what makes them unique. But remember that natural flavor may disappoint you. Having paid a large amount for the second bottle of your favorite natural perfume, you may simply not recognize it, since it will already be created from the components of another collection. But you can be sure that your scent is unique and exceptional. Natural ingredients are actively used by such perfume houses as Balmain, Estee Lauder, Chanel and Guerlain . As a rule, they are used to create classic perfumes that are produced in limited quantities.
Well, if you don't want to spend a small fortune on fragrance, synthetic perfume compositions are your choice. In this case, we can talk not only about pure synthetics, but also about a mixture of synthetic and natural components in different proportions. These are the so-called "synthetic substitutes", which perfumers call the word "ambre".
Do not think that synthetic perfumes are worse in one way or another. In the modern perfumery market, you can find a sufficient number of options for original synthetic perfume products, which boast a huge selection of fragrances. The development of the perfume industry allows modern perfumers to create compositions, the exclusivity and richness of which are not inferior to perfumes made from natural ingredients.
A striking example of a synthetic perfume, indistinguishable from a natural version, is a floral fragrance. Gucci Flora representing the perfume brand Gucci . The freshness of this floral scent strikes with naturalness and juiciness. The composition of the perfume includes notes of rose, osmanthus and delicate peony, after which the fragrance reveals the smells of sandalwood, patchouli and pink pepper.
With regard to complex and rich synthetic compositions, the main example here is aroma. Valentino V . This women's eau de toilette is designed for romantic ladies. The fragrance begins with galbanum and neroli, strikes with depth notes of lily, jasmine and rose, flowing into a base of oak moss, sandalwood, Virginia cedar and vetiver.
So, we will talk about natural perfumes and natural perfumers.
About where lies the border between natural, botanical perfumery and all other perfumery.
So, natural, this is the branch of perfumery, which uses substances exclusively extracted from plants (and, rarely, animals) to create fragrances. Uses in the form in which they were obtained: essential oil, absolute, concrete, resinoid, alcohol or oil tincture, lipstick obtained after enfleurage at home. These extracts, with rare exceptions, are NOT modified, they are NOT extracted from the parts that smell the most beneficial, they are NOT isolated aromatic molecules, which are then called "natural limonene". And they use, I repeat, as is, in the form of mixtures of aromatic molecules that are not identical every time up to the molecule of the composition. That this makes perfect standardization impossible is also not standardizable, for example, wines, the composition of which varies from year to year - such is the specificity of a natural product.
It is worth considering that in the Russian market today, in 2010, natural perfumes are not represented. That is, you will not buy them in any offline store. All ideas about “oily natural analogue of Chanel No. 5” and “natural bulk perfumery from France” are unfair advertising. Ideas about “natural limonene” are similar. This has nothing to do with natural perfumery, as well as the environmentally friendly conditions in which lavender grew, from which linalool for perfumes was obtained. We got a molecule - we move away from natural perfumery to the side. Perhaps it will be no worse, but it will be done outside the scope of natural perfumery.
In expensive brands of niche and selective perfumery, natural substances as is, in the form of absolutes, for example, are certainly used. But in this case, not only natural substances are used. This does not mean that perfumes with artificial molecules are worse. And many believe that it is better, because the molecules give the aroma structure, durability, shine. However, the fact remains that perfumes without artificial molecules and with them are two completely different groups: natural perfumery and, as I call it, “not only natural perfumery”. And usually perfumers who make natural perfumes emphasize this comprehensively. And most often these are perfumers - members Guilds or other private individuals. Large corporations are not engaged in natural perfumery, with the exception of small limited editions and small retro projects (for example, you can read about the perfumes of Marie Antoinette in Dmitry Shishov's livejournal).
Once again - natural perfumes not better" not-only-natural. They are just different. They live and develop according to other laws. They may lose in duration, but often win out in richness of tone. Natural fragrances have a smaller aura, sit closer to the body, and sound more intimate. And yes, they are completely natural. Although I sometimes laugh at the arguments “for” natural perfumes, such as “I’m tired of breathing chemistry” - my God, smelling natural perfumes, we won’t “breathe physics”, right?
But it is naturalness that adds olfactory roughness and irregularities to the aromas. It is in natural perfumes that you can find your favorite natural aromas, reminiscent of landscapes and childhood. And precisely because of the absence of synthetic molecules in natural perfumes, there will never be a soapy musky base, a watermelon scent of top notes or a sweet noose of low-quality synthetic flowers. However, the reverse side of the coin is the special individual character of natural aromatic substances, often perceived as excessive bitterness, pharmacy, brutality. In general, as in all other areas, it is a matter of taste.
Another important point is that all the exclusively natural perfumes that exist today are a thing that is emphatically not mass-produced, limited. One might even say anti-mass. The ideology and composition of natural perfumes are exclusively natural ingredients, which, by definition, are finite, irreproducible. That is, say, the essential oil of a rose harvest from different years has a slightly different chemical composition. If it is used in its entirety, and not in the form of, for example, an isolate, then the perfume from batch to batch will be slightly different. Of course, the aroma of a bouquet of components will be absolutely recognizable, but it is impossible to achieve the accuracy of hitting “down to the molecules”. Yes, and it is not necessary, because no one produces natural perfumes in such a volume. Natural perfumers - from the most famous and famous, members and founders of the guild of natural perfumers, to less well-known private masters, have from several boutiques in the world plus online stores to just online stores based on well-known auctions like esty.com or ebay.
You can find natural perfumes for sale on the websites of natural perfumers stores, at chain fairs, where, for example, Roxanne, the founder of the Illuminated Perfume brand, and Joanne Basset sell their fragrances. The most famous perfumers who create within the framework of exclusively natural perfumery - Mandy Aftel and Alexandra Balahoutis, present their creations in their own offline stores. Everything else is small own online stores. So and only so at the moment natural perfumery is presented.
This, again, encourages us to consider the medal from different angles. What is good about the fact that perfumes are created by masters who are their own masters, both in the choice of ideas and in the choice of ingredients, and what can be inconvenient about this. We'll talk about this in.
