Robes (patterns, sewing). How to sew a robe with a hood from a terry sheet Sew a women's terry robe

Drawing a pattern for a men's dressing gown.

Another pattern for our beloved men is a dressing gown. It is also called a bathrobe. There are other names for this product, but the essence remains – a robe.

This topic was suggested by our visitors, for which we, dear ones, are very grateful to YOU.

There were some doubts, there are more relevant topics and it seemed that a robe was not the most necessary item in a man’s wardrobe, but...

While conducting a survey among our friends about the importance of a robe in a man’s life, we noticed that during the discussion the mood of all participants in the conversation improved noticeably, since a beautiful, warm, homely robe is involuntarily associated with prosperity, luxury, tranquility and comfort. What else is there to think about?

Decision is made. Cut, sew, give and be happy!

The presentation of this product is completely dependent on the fabric from which it is sewn. Therefore, if you want the owner of the robe to be truly happy, do not skimp when choosing fabric!

A very beautiful robe is made from double-sided terry jersey, designed specifically for such things.

These robes are worn wrap-around, without fasteners, with a belt around the waist. It is quite voluminous, providing its owner with freedom of movement and comfort. Turn-down collar, shawl type. There is a patch pocket on the left shelf. Sleeves are set-in, straight. The length of the sleeve can be different; the bottom of the sleeve can be decorated with cuffs.

To create a pattern for a dressing gown, we will need several measurements.

Half neck girth.............39 cm

Half bust.........................48 cm

Half waist......42 cm

Back length to waist......44 cm

Product length.............120 cm

The amount of increase for a loose fit depends on the style, on the degree of desired fit to the figure, on the type, composition and properties of the fabric.

A housecoat is a loose garment that does not restrict movement and provides comfort, so the increase along the chest line should be within 8 - 12 cm.

In our example, we will take the average value of the increase along the chest line for this type of clothing Pg = 10 cm.

Construction of a pattern.

In the upper left corner we draw a right angle and denote the vertex with the letter A.

Bottom line.

The length of the robe can be different: from mini to maxi. In our example, this is the average length for a man of average height.

From point A downwards we set aside the length of the product (Di) and put point H. In our example it is 120 cm, and you set aside your measurement.

AN = Di = 120 cm

From point H to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Waistline.

From point A downwards we put the measurement of the length of the back to the waist (chipboard) and put the point T.

AT = Dst = 44 cm

From point T to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Chest line.

From point A downwards we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the chest semicircle plus 8-10 cm and place point D.

AG = 1/3 Cr + 10 = 48: 3 + 10 = 26 cm

From point G to the right, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

This line determines the depth of the armhole.

In loose clothing that does not restrict movement, such as our robe, the deepening of the armhole can reach the waist level.

Width of the product along the chest line.

From point G to the right horizontally we set aside the width of the product, which is equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest (Cg) plus the increase for a loose fit and set point G1.

In our example, the increase is 10 cm.

GG1 = Cg + Pg = 48 + 10 = 58 cm

And don’t forget to substitute your numbers into the formula.

Through point G1 we draw a vertical line down and up.

The point of intersection with the upper horizontal line is designated by the letter B;

the point of intersection and the waist line is designated by the letter T1;

The point of intersection and the bottom line is designated by the letter H1.

Back width.

From point G to the right we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest (Cg) plus 5 cm (half the amount of increase for a loose fit) and set point G2.

GG2 = Cg: 3 + 5 cm = 48: 3 + 5 cm = 21 cm.

Don't forget that you must substitute your values ​​into all formulas!

From the resulting point G2, draw a vertical line upward until it intersects with the upper horizontal line and place point P.

Front width.

The width of the front can be determined using the same formula as the width of the back: 1/3 of the half-bust measurement (Cg) plus 5 cm (half the increase for a loose fit).

From point G1 to the left we put off the result obtained and place point G3.

G1G3 = Cr: 3 + 5 cm = 48: 3 + 5 cm = 21 cm

In other words, in this technique, the width of the back will be equal to the width of the front.

From point G3 upward, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the upper horizontal line and place point P1.

Armhole width.

The distance between points G2 and G3 is the width of the armhole.

Note. When designing men's clothing, the width of the armhole is determined as the difference between the total width of the product along the chest line and the width of the back and front, but cannot be less than the accepted values, which are usually given in a separate table and experienced designers know these figures by heart. I will not give the entire table; it can be found in any reference book or textbook on clothing design; I will only note that for size 48, the armhole width should not be less than 14.8-16.6 cm, depending on the type of clothing.

If the width of the armhole during construction is less than the maximum values, it is necessary either to increase the overall width of the increase along the chest line, or to reduce the increases in the back and front areas in sections GG2 and G3G1.

Side line.

We divide the distance G2G3 in half, mark the division point with the letter G4, from which we draw a vertical line down until it intersects with the bottom line and place a point H2.

The point of intersection of the side line with the waist line is designated by the letter T2.

Width of sprout (back neck).

From point A to the right, horizontally, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 1 - 1.5 cm and place point A1. In our example - plus 1.5 cm, and you can choose a different value based on your tasks.

It is very important to consider the type of fabric used, its thickness and volume. The thicker and more voluminous the fabric, the larger the neckline should be.

AA1 = Ssh: 3 + 1.5 cm = 19.5: 3 + 1.5 = 8 cm

Height of the sprout (back neck).

From point A1 up at a right angle we set aside 1/2 of the width of the sprout, i.e. distance AA1 and set point A2. There are other ways to determine this value; we will discuss them in the following articles and demonstrate them with other examples.

A1A2 = AA1: 2 = 8: 2 = 4 cm

We draw the line of the sprout (neck of the back) with a smooth curve, as shown in the figure below.

The neck line should approach the mid-back line at a right angle.

Back shoulder line.

From point P we put 2 cm down and put point P2.

From point A2 through point P2 we draw a straight line with a length equal to the shoulder length measurement plus 1 cm for fit (or plus 2 cm if a dart is provided) and place point P3.

If we assume that you do not have the opportunity to take measurements of the shoulder length, in this case you just need to extend the shoulder line beyond point P2 by 1 - 2 cm and place point P3.

Make your calculations, and in our case, the distance A2P3 will be equal to:

A2P3 =Dpl + 1 cm = 16 + 1 = 17 cm

Back armhole line.

We divide the distance P2G2 in half, denoting the division point with the letter P4.

We divide the angle at point G2 in half and along the bisector of the angle we set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm and place point G5.

G2G5 = G2G3: 4 - 0.5 cm = 16: 4 - 0.5 = 3.5 cm

Note: since this value in calculations most often lies within the range of approximately 2.5 - 3.5 cm, you can not calculate it using the formula, but set aside 2.5 - 3.5 cm from point G2 and set point G5.

We draw the back armhole line with a smooth curve, connecting points P3, P4, G5 and G4.

The construction of the back is completed.

Front neck width

The width of the front neckline is equal to 1/3 of the half neck measurement plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. equal to the width of the back neck.

BB1 = Ssh: 3 + 1 cm = 19.5: 3 + 1.5 = 8 cm

From point B to the left horizontally we set aside 8 cm and place point B1.

You can not make this calculation, but measure the width of the neck on the drawing of the back and set aside the corresponding value on the drawing of the shelf.

Front neck height equal to its width. In other words, the width and height of the front neck are equal. Therefore, from point B down, we lay a segment equal to the width of the neck and put point B2.

We draw the front neck line with a smooth curve, as shown in the figure below.

Front shoulder line.

From point P1, we put 4 cm down vertically and put point P5. From point B1 through the resulting point we draw a straight line, on which we plot the length of the shoulder. In our example, this is 16 cm and we put point P6.

If we assume that you do not have the opportunity to take measurements of the shoulder length, in this case you just need to extend the shoulder line beyond point P1 by 1-1.5 cm and place point P6.

Front armhole line.

We divide the distance P5G3 in half, denoting the division point with the letter P7.

We divide the angle at point G3 in half and along the bisector of the angle we set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm and place point G6.

G3G6 = G2G3: 4 - 0.5 cm = 16: 4 - 0.5 = 3.5 cm

Note: since this value in calculations most often lies within the range of approximately 2.5 - 3.5 cm, you can not calculate it using the formula, but set aside 2.5 - 3.5 cm from point G3 and set point G6.

We draw the front armhole line with a smooth curve, connecting points P6, P7, G6 and G4. See the picture below.

Side of the robe.

From point T1 to the right horizontally, continuing the front waist line, set aside half the distance T2T1 and put point T3, from which down, parallel to the center line, draw a straight line, indicating the edge of the side. The point of intersection with the continuation of the bottom line is designated by the letter H3.

Shawl collar.

Before constructing the collar, consider the following: Note: If voluminous terry knitwear is used for sewing, it is possible that the width of the neck (both back and front) will need to be expanded by 0.7 - 1 cm. To do this, set aside the indicated value along the shoulder line from the neck and adjust the neck line. How to do this is illustrated in the figure below.

We connect points T3 and B1 with a straight line, continuing it upward past point B1 to the length of the back neckline and place point B11.

We measure the length of the back neck on the drawing of the back along the curve between points A and A2.

In our example, 9 cm, and you measure the length of the back neck according to your drawing.

From point B11 to the left at a right angle we set aside 3 cm and place point B12.

By connecting this point with a smooth line to point B1, we get a line for sewing in the collar.

From point B12 upwards at right angles to the collar stitching line, set aside the width of the collar at the back. The average collar width in this type of clothing is usually in the range of 8 - 10 cm.

We set aside 10 cm and put point B13.

The collar departure line can have any configuration. We opt for the classic version and design the outer edge of the collar accordingly. To do this, connect points B13 and T3 with a smooth line, remembering the main rule:

The line of departure should always approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.

See the picture below.

The width of the edge in a given product can be different and the technology for its processing is selected accordingly.

In our example, the pick line is indicated by a dotted line. See picture below.

It remains to determine the size and location pocket.

Let's take the average values, taking into account the size of the product, the type of fabric and the client's wishes. Width 18 cm and height 21 cm.

The pocket is located below the waist line approximately 5 - 10 cm and 3 - 5 cm from the side line.

The robe belt is cut approximately 140-160 cm long and 3.5 - 4.5 cm wide when finished. Take into account the size of the product and the type of fabric.

The belt is fastened along the side seam at the waist line.

This completes the construction of the front.

The SLEEVE for the robe is constructed in a similar way.

Measure the length of the armhole according to the drawings of the back and front and then build according to the same principle as the pajama sleeve.

The width of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the sleeve are determined at your discretion. The main thing is not to make it too narrow; take into account the volume of the fabric, especially if it is double-sided terry fabric.

When cutting, don't forget to allow seam allowances!

We will choose the next topic in the men's clothing section from your letters. Write. We are trying for you.

We wish you home comfort and harmony in family relationships!

The robe is strongly associated with such concepts as bath, sauna, steam, relaxation, getting ready for bed. This is a comfortable outfit for an evening out. It’s not difficult to make, and models with a wrap will even save us from the need to sew loops. Let's look at simple patterns for women's dressing gowns for beginners.

The most difficult thing is choosing patterns for girls who need sizes larger than fifty. Therefore, we will consider large sizes and how to increase or decrease the base pattern.

Pattern-basis of a robe with a wrap

An excellent solution for them would be to create a base pattern, which can be used to sew almost any product. By changing the length of the product, moving the dart to the neck line, waist, and so on, we get any item of clothing.

To create a pattern we need the following measurements:

• Neck circumference (Osh)
• Chest circumference (Og).
• Hip circumference (About).
• Waist circumference (From).
• Shoulder circumference. (Op).
• Sleeve length (Dr).
• Dress length (Di).
• Back width (Ws).

Fabric calculation

When calculating the material, keep in mind that products with a smell imply stitched or one-piece selections.

Accordingly, the fabric consumption will be greater than for a dress with a front seam, sewn using the same pattern.

Cutting fabric

We need fabric in quantity: 2 product lengths + sleeve lengths.

How to make a robe pattern with your own hands?

A simple way to create a pattern for non-fitting items. From the shirt we get a drawing of a robe.

Step - build the outline of the shirt.

• We measure all the dimensions necessary for the drawing.
• Carefully transfer them to a sheet of whatman paper or wallpaper.
• Please note that the lines of the front and back are almost the same, but the lines of the neck are different.

Step - modify the drawing.

• Shift the shoulder line down 1-2 cm.
• Same with the underside of the shoulder.
• Extend the sleeve as needed.
• We shift the line of the neck of the shelf by 3 cm.
• We increase the width of the shelf for the smell.
• Please note that only the sleeve line changes at the back!
• Draw out a pocket of the desired shape.
• The pattern of the robe with one-piece sleeves is finished.

Details: Shelf – 2 pcs., back 1 pc. with fold, pocket 2 pcs.

Wraparound robe (size 54)

Required:

• Terry or corduroy fabric, thick knitwear - 3.5 meters.
• Threads to match.
• Adhesive padding for belt and collar optional.
• A scrap of fabric for the burlap pockets is optional.

It is better to make the collar double. To do this, circle it onto a separate part.

Progress:

• We lay out the patterns on the prepared fabric, chalk it, and do not forget about the allowances. Don't forget to cut out the pocket details separately.
• Cut it out.
• We sew the darts.
• We sew the shoulder seams, preferably with a backstitch.
• Sew the side seams of the sleeves.
• Sew the sleeves into the open armhole.
• We sew the burlap pockets to the shelves.
• Sew the side seams.
• We sew the collar piece to the one-piece collar. First, we trim its sections with trim.
• We process all cuts with binding.
• Fold the bottom of the robe, seam it at a distance of about 3 cm.
• Sew the belt as desired.
• Ironing.

Other models of dressing gowns are made in the same way.

Enlarging the pattern

Most magazines and websites do not offer a very wide range of sizes. Successful patterns in sizes 56, 58, 60 are almost never found.

But there are simple ways to increase the pattern by a couple of sizes, especially since the robe always implies some freedom of fit.

Advice! The simpler the cut of the product, the more successful and unnoticeable the enlargement process will be.

How to enlarge a pattern?

Stages of work:

• We draw vertical lines along the front and back, sleeves, and horizontal lines along the chest.
• Let's cut it.
• Add 0.5 cm to each cut.
• Add 0.5 cm along the side of the parts.
• We outline the new boundaries of the patterns.
• Cut it out.
• Thus, we added 2 to 3 cm in volume.
• You can take fewer centimeters.

Reduce pattern

Advice! Similarly, you can reduce the pattern; to do this, we move the parts on top of each other, reducing the volume.

A robe without a pattern made from a terry sheet

You can make a short bathrobe with a hood from an ordinary terry sheet. The value of the technique is that there are no scraps left, all the fabric is used.

The size of the terry robe model is limited by the volume of the hostess’s hips and the width of the sheet.

Terry towel robe

The drawing is given for a canvas 130 cm wide. Accordingly, to obtain the smell, the maximum size of the product that we can get is 50-52, hip volume 104 cm. If we take a double sheet, we can sew a larger model.

Progress:

• We mark the fabric according to the drawing.
• If we want to get a long product, then we need additional fabric for the bottom.
• We cut out the pieces of fabric highlighted in gray; these will be our pockets.
• We do not cut the line connecting the hood to the main part; the hood will be solid.
• We cut off the sections that will become the sleeves.
• We sew them into the armholes.
• Sew the shoulder seams and side seams of the sleeves.
• We sew the sides of the hood, hem its front side part along the neckline.
• We process the cuts with bias tape, braid, overlay or narrow zigzag stitch.
• Ironing.
• Let's try it on.

As you can see, it’s easy to make a robe if you want, even if you have very little sewing skills.

You can sew a robe with a hood from an ordinary terry sheet measuring 180 by 130 cm. There is only one condition: the hip circumference should not exceed 110 cm, otherwise the robe will not fit across the width.

The design of the robe is extremely simple and economical: not a single centimeter will go to waste.

Fold the fabric crosswise and mark the center center line. From it to the left and to the right, set aside ¼ of the hip measurement. Mark the length of the product, the length and width of the sleeve; how to do this can be seen in the drawing. Cut the armholes and shoulder seams, cut out two squares measuring 17 by 17 cm - they will be used for pockets or gussets if you want to make the sleeves looser. Please note: there is no need to make a cut along the 16 cm long line - this is where the hood and robe are connected.

Sew the sleeves into the armhole. Then sew the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam at the same time - they continue each other. Sew the corners of the hood and stitch the lower part to the neckline. The hem and the hem of the robe can be edged with braid or machine hemmed with a zigzag seam.

The robe can be made long, but then the sheet will not be enough, you will have to use ordinary terry cloth.

The armhole (the place where the sleeve is sewn to the “body”) is half the width of the sleeve. Naturally, where it says “armhole”, you need to make a cut.

Like in a construction set - cut it out and fold it. There will be no problems at all.

Information for those who like to dress beautifully and fashionably. I found an interesting website http://www.stock-center.ru, this is the official website of the Stock Center chain of stores, which have been leading the market for more than ten years. The goods in stores are for buyers with low and average earnings, but despite this, the models are very rare, high quality and beautiful. Here you can find branded clothing at very low prices. Stylish ladies will not be disappointed when visiting the site; there are a lot of not only clothes, but also shoes and other goods. Shopping, as you know, is the best cure for depression, and if it doesn’t cost you too much, then you are guaranteed a great mood boost!

Hello, needlewomen. Wouldn't an extra robe hurt us? See how to sew a robe without a pattern.

A simple model of a robe with a scent

A robe is a very comfortable thing, and when you sew it with your own hands, it can become a real work of art. For your home, you can come up with decorations that you won’t wear in public. But at home you also need to be beautiful and well-groomed.

First, without a pattern, we’ll sew a wraparound robe. If you know how to hold a needle in your hand, then this is not a problem for you. Let shorts and a T-shirt remain your home clothes, but a robe will not be superfluous.

Why do you need to sew a thing with a smell first? It is convenient because you can quickly tie it without getting confused with the zipper and buttons, and the buttons can come off, the loops can become unusable, but the straps or belt never!

How much material will be needed

For this wardrobe item, you can take any material, but the dimensions should be as follows: with a width of 150 cm, take a length equal to the length of the product, if your size is up to 54, and if larger, then 2 times larger.

We calculate the width using the formula: FOB plus 20 cm. FOB is the half-circumference of the hips.

We create the pattern directly on the fabric.

1. First, iron the fabric well.
2. Lay it out on the table.
3. Fold fabric 150 cm wide in half with the wrong side inward, narrow fabric 80 cm wide - across.
4. We draw the points of the future pattern with chalk.
5. On a narrow fabric, we retreat 1.5 cm from the left edge for the seam on the back.
6. We build a pattern from above.
7. At the top we make an indent for the line - 1 cm.
8. From this indentation to the right we draw a straight line
9. On this line from the fold of the back to the edge we measure 9 cm, and from the left corner we measure down 2 cm, put a dot. Connect two points. This will be the neckline on the back side.
10. Next, to the right of the fold, measure the FOB + 20 cm. At this mark, draw a straight line from top to bottom.
11. On it we draw a cutout on the front shelf: you need to measure the distance from the shoulder to the waist, put this value on a straight line.
12. On the top line, laid horizontally, to the left of the edge, measure 9 cm and put a dot.
13. Connect 2 marks.
14. The top horizontal line must be divided in half.
15. Draw a straight line 26 cm down from this point.
16. We make a cut along it for the hands.
17. Next we cut out the parts.

Sewing the product

• We process the edges of the parts with a zigzag.
• We sew the back with narrow fabric.
• We fold the front and back face to face, aligning them along the shoulders.
• We turn up the sleeves and bottom.
• We sew a belt 4 cm wide.
• We use finishing trim to trim the neckline and front edge.

You can also sew terry bathrobe.

How to sew a robe without sleeves and without side seams

Let's sew a sleeveless thing, and even without side seams. Let's make the top seams between the back and the shelves. And the sleeves and buttons will be replaced by a belt or a hidden fastener, so it is sewn very quickly.

The base of the robe is a simple rectangle. Width - (MN multiplied by 2) equals the circumference of the hips plus 8-10 cm. The NP segment is given by smell, equal to 15 cm on both shelves. The length of the product is any.

The height of the barrel (from the waist to the bottom mark of the sleeve opening) is 17-20 cm. Choose this size as you like. Also choose the depth of the neck yourself.

Let's start sewing:

• Zigzag the sleeve opening.
• We sew the shelves and back along the top,
• We will process the neck, as well as the edges of the product.
• If you decide to make a hidden fastener, then place it at the intersection of the waist line and the vertical line from point N.
• Treat the shelves and neck with ready-made finishing material.
• Fold the bottom.

Like Japanese beauties

Let's sew robe-kimono.

The kimono robe is sewn loose with wide sode sleeves, always with a belt, the width closer to the Japanese obi is 10-15 cm. The pattern is very simple, consisting of 6 parts:

• One-piece back.
• Left and right shelves.
• Rectangular sleeves.
• Two belt parts.

It is better to sew from silk, then you will look like a real oriental beauty.

The sewing procedure is the same as above, you just need to sew on the sleeves. Sew a rectangle, then sew it to the armhole.

Dear craftswomen, you will definitely learn to sew like a real professional if you open the video where Irina Paukshte gives lessons.

Happy sewing!

The basic pattern of a wraparound robe is suitable for modeling home clothes. Having understood how to sew a simple dressing gown, you will be able to create cozy things for the whole family, for adults and children.

A robe is comfortable home clothing that fits loosely and softly to the body. Bathrobes can be made from terry cloth or made from warm or light fabric. A distinctive feature of the wraparound robe is the absence of fasteners (buttons or zippers). The edges of the robe overlap each other and are tied with a soft belt made of the same fabric as the robe itself.

Let's look at several models of dressing gowns and understand the features of their sewing.

Sewing features

First, of course, measurements are taken. To create a robe pattern, you need to know the following measurements:

• back length to waist (Dst);
• shoulder length (Dp);
• semi-circumference of the neck (Ssh);
• half chest circumference (Cg);
• half waist circumference (St);
• semi-hip circumference (Sb);
• sleeve length (Dr);
• length of the product from the neck to the desired length (Di).

The loose fit of the robe is ensured by the absence of darts on the chest, so they are not taken into account in the drawings.

For beginnersHere's a simple pattern:

There are only five parts here plus a pocket that can be made as desired. This pattern can be taken as a sample and various styles can be modeled based on it.

On average, sewing such a robe will take 4.5 meters (with a width of 90 cm) or 2.5 meters (with a width of 150 cm) of fabric. It is recommended to take a flannel or fleece.

A more complex robe pattern (sleeveless):

AD—product length;

DC - semi-circumference of the hips with an increase of 7 cm;

AT - length of the back to the waist with an increase of 1 cm;

G4N - side line;

AG - armhole depth with an increase of 3 cm;

Г2Г3 - armhole width (¼ Сг + 2 cm);

P - shoulder construction point (2 cm + Dp + 2 cm).

The front and back are almost identical, but the front part on the right edge has a flap, which must be taken into account when constructing. Increase in smell - 7 cm.

Please note in advance that the pattern for sizes 56-58 is built on the same principle as for sizes 42-48, however, it has its own characteristics related to allowances for a loose fit.

Below is a size chart for creating a pattern for a full figure.

Sleeve pattern:

When constructing a drawing of a sleeve pattern, it is necessary to calculate the height of the edging (line OO1). To do this, you need to know the length of the armhole on the robe pattern.

OO1 = 1/3 of the armhole length - 5 cm.

OP and OP1 are auxiliary lines, equal to ½ the length of the armhole.

Cut out the following parts from the fabric and stitch along the seams:

• shelf - 2 parts;
• back – 1 piece with fold;
• selection – 2 parts;
• sleeve – 2 parts;
• pocket – 2 parts.

Make seam allowances of 1.5 cm, and 4 cm for the bottom of the robe and sleeves.

One of the popular models is the kimono robe. It is also sewn with a wrap, but has some peculiarities in tailoring and is distinguished by wide sleeves. Most often, such robes are made of light fabric - satin or silk.

A simple kimono with a wrap and sleeves is sewn using this basic pattern:

The main feature of the kimono is the T-shape of the pattern, i.e. the sleeves are sewn on the same line. You can make a pattern of one piece and sew it on the sides from the edge of the sleeves to the bottom of the product. At the front, you need to determine the depth of the neckline, make an appropriate cutout, cut the front to the bottom, and then trim the edges with fabric or tape.

You can also sew a simple robe with buttons. The pattern of a robe with buttons differs from the pattern with a wrap in the absence of a lapel and the depth of the neck. Such robes can be sewn to fit your figure with darts on the chest.

The simplest design of a robe with button fasteners:

A robe with a zipper is also sewn using the same principle, but it is necessary to leave equal allowances along the edges for sewing in the fastener.

Children's version

The difference between a child's robe and an adult's one is in the selection of fabric and sewing technique.

Usually terry cloth is used to make the robe very soft. For children, you can choose bright fabrics or with funny designs.

Simple robes are sewn according to the principle of a kimono from one or two parts, so that excess seams do not rub the child’s skin. For example, according to this pattern:

This robe is suitable for both girls and boys, especially small ones of preschool age. They can be decorated with appliqués.