Is it possible to use hyaluronic acid in summer. Hyaluronic acid - properties and application in cosmetology. Lips after hyaluronic acid - photo

Hyaluronate, or hyaluronic acid, the properties and benefits of which are advertised by cosmetic companies, is the main tool used for facial rejuvenation. The wide distribution of products with its content makes many people think about whether procedures and home care with the help of such drugs are useful, or they are harmful to the face. To solve this issue, you need to understand what hyaluronic acid is and how to choose the right cosmetics in order to get an excellent result.

Hyaluronic acid in the human body

Polysaccharide is a chemical term that implies that the substance contains glucose molecules. In hyaluronate, they are connected in long chains. A hyaluronic acid molecule can contain up to 25,000 identical units. When interacting with a special protein (aggrecan), it acquires the ability to bind and retain water molecules in tissues.

Hyaluronic acid in the human body is part of the connective tissue: cartilage, tendons, etc. A lot of hyaluronate is contained in the vitreous body of the eye, in the synovial fluid, where it provides the viscosity of the medium. Together with collagen and elastin fibers, the substance enters the structure of the skin, providing its elasticity and participating in regeneration processes. Where does hyaluronic acid come from if it has not yet been introduced during cosmetic procedures?

Hyaluronate is produced by the body itself. In the body of an adult, the total mass of this substance reaches 15 g. But its natural synthesis slows down after the age of 25, and the processes of hyaluronate breakdown prevail over its production in the body. Over time, the proportion of acid in the skin decreases, and the tissues become dehydrated. In the dermis, changes occur that outwardly look like wrinkles. Due to the decrease in the amount of hyaluronate in other tissues, age-related changes affect the entire body.

Plants do not produce hyaluronic acid. Therefore, no diet with food containing soybeans, fiber or other substances will affect the production of its own acid in the body. For skin rejuvenation, one or another cosmetic procedure using hyaluronate preparations is needed.

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetology

The use of hyaluronic acid in cosmetology is based on its ability to retain water. Research scientists have proven that the combination of hyaluronate and succinic acid activates the metabolism in skin tissues, contributing to the restoration of its cells. The restorative effect of hyaluronic acid on the skin of the face leads not only to a visual improvement in the condition of the skin, but also renews it at the cellular level. To verify this, you need to figure out how hyaluronic acid acts on the skin of the face and why this or that procedure is needed.

As a component of the intercellular substance, hyaluronate promotes the movement of lymphocytes and fibroblasts to the sites of skin damage. In inflammatory conditions, in the case of a minor injury, these cells ensure the fight against microorganisms and tissue healing. Regeneration processes also consist in the formation of a large number of elastin and collagen fibers, which maintain skin elasticity.

In beauty parlors, visitors are offered services based on the injection of hyaluronic acid preparations into the skin. The result of all procedures is to increase the volume of thinned skin, fill wrinkles, eliminate skin defects (acne scars). There are the following uses of hyaluronic acid:

• biorevitalization - for the treatment of acne, postpartum stretch marks, restoration of facial skin with age-related changes;
• mesotherapy - correction of facial skin defects;
• during redermalization, both hyaluronic and succinic acids are included in the composition of the preparations as an active substance;
• for bioreparation, fillers with peptides and vitamins are used;
• consists in restoring the oval of the face with the help of hyaluronic acid;
• contour plastic is used to change the shape and volume of individual parts of the face (for example, for).

In addition to salon techniques, there are cosmetics that include low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. They are designed for skin care at home. To get the desired effect, and the skin was supple and velvety, when using serum or cream, you must follow the instructions for the drug.

Video about the pros and cons of using hyaluronic acid for the face

When should hyaluronic acid products not be used?

From the use of hyaluronic acid and products with its content sometimes have to be abandoned. This is due to the peculiarities of obtaining the substance. Despite modern methods of purification of hyaluronic acid, it can cause allergic reactions. The ability of the intercellular environment to conduct useful substances and lymphocytes inside the skin can play a negative role and serve as a way to move infectious agents or even altered cells (when there are tumors in the body). Side effects can also arise from the individual reaction of the body, so it is better to get advice and carry out anti-aging treatment in large salons where certified specialists work.

Under the following conditions:

• acute infectious and inflammatory processes;
• reduced blood clotting or when taking anticoagulants;
• autoimmune diseases;
• individual intolerance to drugs with hyaluronate;
• allergies;
• pregnancy and lactation.

It is undesirable to start procedures if less than 30 days ago a facial peeling (laser or chemical) was performed.

What is it like?

Manufacturers produce many drugs with designations that are not always clear to consumers of their products.

In order to choose the right product for home use or salon care, it must be borne in mind that the types of hyaluronic acid can differ in the length of the molecule:

1. For the treatment of arthritis, eye diseases, doctors use a medium molecular weight substance. This hyaluron is more of a medicine than cosmetics. Its introduction into the body stimulates fibroblasts and helps the body start producing its own hyaluronate.
2. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid consists of short segments and is included in home use products: tonics or serums, emulsions, creams, etc. The small particle size helps them penetrate deep into the dermis. With the help of drugs based on this form of hyaluronate, complex skin diseases (trophic ulcers, psoriasis, etc.) are also treated. The disadvantage is the short period of deposition of the acidic substance: it remains in the tissues for only 7-8 days.
3. In salon procedures, high-molecular hyaluronic acid, consisting of long polymer chains, is more often used. It helps to hydrate the skin and retain moisture in it. Introduced into the dermis, hyaluronic acid for the face is more useful than the previous one, because. solutions based on it have a high viscosity and can remain in the skin for up to 2 weeks. After that, the processes of its degradation begin, and the procedures have to be repeated after 6-10 months.

There are varieties of hyaluronate and the method of production. When choosing a product, you should ask what hyaluron is made of. At present, a substance derived from animal materials (umbilical cords, rooster combs, fish, etc.) is used less and less frequently. It could not be qualitatively purified from protein impurities, so injections could cause an allergic reaction or rejection.

Currently, cosmetics manufacturers produce biosynthesized hyaluronate. It is obtained through the activity of microorganisms. with this type of hyaluronic acid are considered hypoallergenic.

The system of hyaluronic acids used in cosmetology includes such types as:

• stabilized, or native - biosynthesized molecules that have undergone a cross-linking process, which are less subject to degradation in human tissues;
• unstabilized, i.e. devoid of these qualities.

Due to the characteristics of each type, cosmetology uses them in different ways. Unstabilized hyaluronic acid for the face is more often used for general improvement of the skin condition (in or during biorevitalization), for moisturizing procedures. The stabilized form is used to model the contours of the face, to replenish the volume of tissues in certain areas (to fill in wrinkles and smooth out folds). The scope of use of a particular drug depends on the degree of stabilization of the molecules: less stabilized drugs are recommended for the correction of fine wrinkles, more viscous, with high stabilization - to smooth out wrinkles and dips.

Consumer properties of hyaluronic acid of different types differ slightly. The main difference is the period of its preservation under the skin before the onset of degradation and the presence or absence of the likelihood of side effects.

Preparations and products with hyaluronic acid

The production of hyaluronic acid for the face and preparations based on it is carried out in different countries. The undoubted leader in the production of cosmetics with a rejuvenating effect is Korea. It was Korean cosmetics that gave hyaluronic acid its current popularity.

Hyaluronic acid from wrinkles is used in the form of external and internal means. Among the drugs, the following varieties can be distinguished:

1. Cream or serum can be used by girls up to 25 years of age. Hyaluronic acid for the face in the form of an external agent, supplemented with oils of plant origin, can protect the skin from drying out, but is practically unable to correct the defects of the dermis. Topical remedies can also help with acne.
2. For those over 30, rejuvenation with hyaluronic acid should be carried out using injection methods. During the procedure, the cosmetologist will introduce a filler where wrinkles are required to be filled: even sharp nasolabial, interbrow or frontal folds can be leveled with hyaluronic acid. By collecting and retaining moisture, the drug will swell and smooth the skin.
3. You can buy the drug for oral administration. You need to drink hyaluronic acid in accordance with the instructions for the product: most often 1 tablet or capsule per day. This is the best technique for those who are afraid of injections or who do not trust other ore procedures. The effect of taking medications will have to wait 2-3 months, constantly taking the remedy.

Modern cosmetology uses hyaluronate not only for facial skin. There is Korean cosmetics and (masks, serums, etc.). They act on the hair in the same way that facial skin is moisturized with hyaluronic acid, i.e. create a protective film, retaining moisture inside the hair. Widely used and special tools for men (to increase the penis).

Myths about hyaluronic acid

Due to the relative novelty of restorative cosmetics with hyaluronate, a large number of different myths and conjectures go around rejuvenation methods. Some of them are justified, but most of them are not true. One of these is the myth that hyaluronic acid in cosmetology is an analogue of Botox.

In fact, Botox is a drug containing a toxin from the botulism bacteria. The substance relaxes and paralyzes muscle tissue, smoothing out wrinkles. The principle of action of hyaluronic acid is different: a viscous liquid simply fills the space under the skin, pushing some of it out. High-quality fillers are non-toxic and absolutely safe, because. Hyaluronic acid breaks down under the influence of human enzymes to simple sugars.

Women believe that it is better not to use moisturizing masks and creams containing hyaluronic acid (for the face) in the winter cold. But it is in winter that the skin is exposed to dry air both outdoors and indoors. Moisturizing preparations are necessary to protect it from peeling and dehydration. When using a moisturizer, you need to know that hyaluronic acid is applied to the skin of the face 30-40 minutes before going outside. The tool will have time to be absorbed into the dermis and protect it from drying out.

Another myth tells that intraocular pressure may increase due to the use of hyaluronate. This belief is completely unfounded, tk. drugs do not affect the processes in the body. Hyaluronic acid, whose function is to accumulate and retain moisture, is already contained inside the eye and cannot get there from a cream or filler.

Many are also interested in the question of whether there may be an allergy to hyaluronic acid. When choosing high-quality preparations made on the basis of biosynthesized hyaluronic acid, the risk of allergic reactions is minimized. It does not matter what type of substance the manufacturer used in their care products: both low-molecular and high-molecular hyaluronic have the same side effects and contraindications. The composition of hyaluronic acid does not change, only the length of its molecules can be changed. When using creams and serums, allergies often occur due to the content of related substances of plant and animal origin (oils, fragrances or extracts).

Consumers also have doubts about the ability of molecules to penetrate into the dermis when the drug is applied to the skin. Hyaluronic acid, which is used for the manufacture of such care products, has a small molecular size and freely penetrates into the intercellular space. The difference with injections is the depth of penetration: external agents are able to moisturize only the upper layers of the dermis. Therefore, their use is limited by the age of the woman.

Among the abundance of means and methods of their application, it is easy to choose the best way that suits every woman. When choosing one of them, you should take into account your age and contraindications, which can contribute to an allergic reaction or cause other troubles. Before the procedure, it is best to consult with an experienced cosmetologist.

Yes. But with age, the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by the body decreases. You can fill the deficiency with the help of creams, lotions and serums, subcutaneous injections, procedures using a laser, ultrasound and microcurrent.

Hyaluronic acid makes the skin more elastic and elastic, reduces wrinkles, gives extra volume to the lips and other parts of the body, and can even cure dermatitis.

German dermatologists were the first to identify Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment these magical properties of hyaluronan, a little later they conducted their research Efficacy and safety of a low-molecular weight hyaluronic Acid topical gel in the treatment of facial seborrheic dermatitis cosmetologists from the USA.

Where does the acid in creams and injections come from?

At first, hyaluronic acid was obtained only from animal raw materials: cockscombs or umbilical cords of animals. Over time, science came to the artificial production of hyaluronan in the laboratory. The second acids are purer in composition and more human-like in properties.

They say that hyaluronic acid in creams is useless: its molecules are too large to get into the deeper layers of the skin. It's true?

Hyaluronan molecules are indeed several times larger than the distance between skin cells. However, it is not necessary for the acid to penetrate too deeply to moisten. It is enough to stay on the surface of the skin for some time to exert its water-retaining effect. In addition, for creams, lotions and serums, the molecules are specially split Hyaluronic acid - the key to retaining youthful moisture into small fractions.

Why then inject?

Then, that the effect of them is more noticeable and longer. The use of professional acid gels and creams guarantees smooth skin within only 10-20 days. The effect of injections lasts on average 6-12 months (depending on the type of drug).

In the case of injections, hyaluronic acid acts as a filler. The substance, as it were, inflates the skin from the inside, thereby smoothing out wrinkles and, chest or other parts of the body (but more often acid is still used for facial plastic surgery). That is why injections should be done only in specialized salons with an experienced master. If you enter too much of the drug, instead of a doll face and sensual lips, you risk getting pillow cheeks and ridges instead of a mouth.

There are other dangers as well. Sometimes drugs cause allergies, and during an injection, an infection can be introduced into the body. Therefore, doctors do not recommend injections if you have an inflammatory disease, you are pregnant or breastfeeding. After chemical or laser peeling, it is also better to postpone the procedure: the dermis needs time to recover.

Does hyaluronic acid cause acne?

The use of hyaluronan is included in the complex therapy against. Acid normalizes the work of the sebaceous glands, eliminates inflammation and helps regular renewal of skin cells.

For acne, you can take rashes that appear after injections due to improper care. The puncture breaks the integrity of the skin and allows bacteria to freely enter the body. If you do not follow the rules of disinfection and care, small white pimples may appear at the puncture sites.

And is it addictive?

Only psychological. After hyaluronan ceases to stimulate hydration, the skin gradually returns to its original state. And stimulation ends for quite natural reasons: hyaluronic acid that has entered the body is included in the metabolic process and is gradually absorbed.

And the patient goes to the next injection session or buys another jar of cream. But the condition of his skin did not worsen - it just became what it was before hyaluronan.

Does hyaluronic acid stop the aging process?

Hyaluronan deeply moisturizes the skin, restores its tone, smoothes wrinkles. But skin aging is such a complex process that it cannot be reduced to dehydration alone. Using hyaluronic acid in creams or subcutaneous injections can make you look younger, but it doesn't stop things from happening.

Hyaluronic acid is not a cure for old age. This simply does not exist.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, a class of chemicals that can effectively retain moisture due to its polar nature. 1 gram of hyaluronic acid can contain 6 liters of water - that's 6000%! Hyaluronic acid keeps the skin firm and elastic. Decreased levels of hyaluronic acid were thought to result in thinner and drier skin. However, research shows that the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin does not actually decrease with age, but is redistributed with natural and induced skin aging.

What is hyaluronic acid?
First of all, hyaluronic acid (which is also known as hyaluronate) is not an acid in the same sense as the popular salicylic or glycolic acids, which exfoliate dead skin cells.

Hyaluronic acid does not. As a natural polysaccharide found in the human body, it acts as an emollient and lubricating agent for our joints, nerves, hair, skin, and eyes.

This is especially important for the appearance of the skin, because about 50% of the volume is in the tissues of the skin, where the viscous jelly-like substance helps keep it soft and supple...for a while, at least. The body's ability to produce hyaluronic acid declines with age, which can lead to increased dryness, fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging.

Because that's one of the reasons skincare and beauty companies encourage us to use their synthetic hyaluronic acid products - they claim their products help replenish our lost stores.

Why hyaluronic acid is not included in the list of anti-aging components
It is a big misconception that hyaluronic acid is an anti-aging ingredient. Maybe when it is injected with a needle deep under the epidermis. But when you apply it as part of a remedy (topically), it is not. It can moisturize fine lines to make them a little less visible, but if we're talking about plumping up the skin by stimulating collagen or replacing the HA you've lost, then unfortunately no, that's not possible.

« When you apply it topically, the molecule is too large for the hyaluronic acid to penetrate the skin. It forms a barrier on the skin and gives a mild moisturizing effect that makes the skin smoother, but it does not eliminate wrinkles. So when we inject it to fill in a wrinkle or a line, it works well.».

If you're looking for a great anti-aging ingredient, then you might want to try the gold standard, Retinol (Retinoids). and

Mad Hippie Skin Care Products, Vitamin A Serum
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a revolutionary bioavailable form of vitamin A that helps to dramatically reduce the appearance of wrinkles and depigmentation.

MyChelle Dermaceuticals, Extraordinary Retinol Serum, Anti-Aging
Serum with the most effective over-the-counter form of Vitamin A (Retinal) plus Ceramide 3 and Orange Plant Stem Cells to promote healthy skin renewal and minimize the appearance of wrinkles.

Also peptide products are a good choice.
Madre Labs, Serumdipity, Anti-Aging Peptide Facial Oil
Rejuvenating facial oil with peptides. Moisturizes and eliminates wrinkles. Contains clinically tested peptides.
Peptides are smaller than proteins and include from 2 to 50 amino acids - the building blocks of protein. Peptides supply the body with extra collagen to maintain youthful, radiant skin. Our rejuvenating peptide facial oil nourishes you from within. The skin becomes hydrated and smooth.

Mad Hippie Skin Care Products, 13 Active Ingredients Face Cream
Peptides are natural short strands of amino acids that stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles.
The cream reduces wrinkles, makes the skin smooth and gives it a healthy look.

What you need to know if you use hyaluronic acid as a moisturizer
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it attracts water to the skin and helps prevent moisture loss. But it is not the most effective moisturizing ingredient. scientists at The Beauty Brains: “There is no evidence that constant use of sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid will have an amazing moisturizing effect on your skin. Without a doubt, it is a good moisturizing ingredient. But there are much better products out there that you could use."

Why can I get the opposite result instead of moisturizing (dry and hard skin)?
If you are using a hyaluronic acid moisturizer, be careful. In very dry climates, this water-binding ingredient may not attract moisture from the environment, so it may actually begin to draw moisture from the deeper layers of your skin.

But maybe work better on some skin types (i.e. those with a tendency to to fat content, oily) than on others (for example, dry and sensitive).

The right way to use hyaluronic acid
Don't get me wrong - hyaluronic acid is not a bad thing to use if it works for you. The great thing about HA is that it's super-light and watery, which is a big benefit for acne-prone people who aren't enthusiastic about oily moisturizers.

The most powerful topical form, the serum, is applied to clean, bare and ideally if damp (wet) skin as the first step in your skin care regimen.
Unfortunately, I didn’t find my favorite combination (serum with hyaluronic acid plus pantothenic acid) on herb, so I offer my favorite options no less:

Hyalogic LLC, Episilk, Relaxing Facial Serum
Combines ultra-hydrating hyaluronic acid and skin-smoothing argireline in one hydrating formula that reduces the depth of fine lines and wrinkles in the forehead, around the eyes and mouth.

Hyalogic LLC, Instant Firming Serum
Combines ultra-hydrating hyaluronic acid with Pepha-Tight, a unique natural algae extract known for its instant skin tightening effect. This light, non-greasy formula helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by oxidative stress.

Hyalogic LLC, Triple Boost Hyaluronic Acid Collagen Enhancing Serum
Triple Boost Face Serum is formulated to help boost natural collagen and restore lost volume, elasticity and firmness to the skin. The unique formula combines three powerful ingredients designed to boost the skin's natural collagen: Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate and hydrate, Syn-Coll to help the skin's natural collagen and Special Marine Collagen to promote healthy, youthful-looking skin. Multi-level action helps provide healthier, younger-looking skin.

If the HA does not dry out the skin, you can wear it alone or under moisturizer, SPF, makeup.

If you are at risk (you have dry skin), do not risk it, look for hyaluronic acid in combination with other ingredients.
CeraVe, PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion
CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion helps repair damaged skin and support skin's natural defenses with ingredients not commonly found in other moisturizers. Its patented Multi Vesicular Emulsion (MVE) releases these ingredients over time, penetrating deep into the skin while hydrating and nourishing it throughout the night.

Works the same way Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Moisturizer(which also contains retinol).
Works to continuously renew the look of skin throughout the day to help smooth out wrinkles and reduce the appearance of dark spots. Retinol SA is scientifically superior to other forms of vitamin A such as Pro-Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate in providing skin benefits.

Hyaluronic acid in your makeup, I think this can only be a bonus. It's non-greasy, so its presence doesn't affect texture, but it will give you extra hydration - great if you need that in your foundation. In things like lipstick, it's more of a marketing ploy.

Several Alternatives to Hyaluronic Acid
Looking for a good moisturizer that will work just as well as HA? A cream that works great as a make-up base. Recommend Aveeno, Active Naturals, Daily Moisturizer, SPF15 Formulated with an exclusive soy complex and natural reflective elements, this daily moisturizer naturally evens out skin tone and texture and does an excellent job of reflecting solar radiation to hide imperfections. This cream has been clinically proven to positively affect the 5 radiance factors and leave skin fresh, invigorated and radiant. In practice, women report visible improvements after just 4 weeks of use!

Also suitable for normal to oily or combination skin Nature Republic, Aqua, Super Aqua Max, combined watery cream. ANDIt has a gel texture but moisturizes well. Protects the skin from the external environment by creating a thin layer of liquid on the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant of plant origin that keeps the skin hydrated for a long time, constantly maintaining the moisture of combination skin.
I hope you liked the article, write what you think about it.

Hyaluronic acid has been around for a long time, but it is still “overgrown” many myths that introduce some of us astray. This is especially true for invasive methods. Understanding , which of the statements about beauty injections with "hyaluron" ‒ true, and what ‒ myth .

Myth #1: Injections are dangerous to health, they have the same chemistry

Hactually: « Injections use a biochemical structure of non-animal origin, identical to our own hyaluronic acid, which is naturally found in our body, binding and distributing water to tissues and cells, - says Mavjuda Tohirova, cosmetologist, dermatovenereologist at the Clinic of German Medical Technologies GMTClinic. - The smoothness and elasticity of the skin is provided by collagen and elastin, and hyaluronic acid, in turn, maintains them in the right position. Microinjections, which include this natural component, are not harmful to health if performed by an experienced cosmetologist. "Injections" with hyaluronic acid is one of the safest and most effective methods of moisturizing the skin, smoothing the skin relief, making the face smooth and beautiful tone» .

Myth number 2: Our body and so produces hyaluronic acid, so such injections are useless

On theactually: « After 25 years, fibroblast cells no longer producehyaluronic acid v a volume sufficient to independently maintain the tone and hydration of the skin,- continues Dr. Tohirova. - AND because of which it loses its tone and velvety, becomes flabby and dehydrated. A m caviar injections replenish yat deficiency in our body this natural humectant that can retain moisture» . You can’t rely on creams with hyaluronic acid in the composition, theywork only in the upper layers of the epidermis and cannot be compared with invasive techniques.

Myth #3: "Beauty injections" based on hyaluronic acid are effective only after 35 years

Hactually: « The fact is that not every girl takes care of her skin properly - she neglects the procedures for regular cleansing, nutrition and moisturizing, uses low-quality cosmetics, and chooses care products incorrectly., - describes the sad statistic cosmetologist Mavjuda Tohirova. - Premature aging of the skin is also affected by factors such as unfavorable environmental conditions, unbalanced nutrition, alcohol abuse, smoking, insufficient water intake (less than 2 liters of water per day). Age-related changes “get younger”, and, unfortunately, even young girls may experience early wrinkles, a dull complexion, and dehydrated skin that has lost its firmness and smoothness.Add to this the fact that at the age of 25 we have a shortage of our own “hyaluronic acid”.That is why it is so important to start taking care of your beauty as early as possible. Depending on age, either a lighter concentration is used GC for good hydration of young skin, or higher - to work with wrinkles and replenish hydro-reservein adult patients".

Myth #4: Hyaluronic acid is addictive

Hactually: « Such a stereotype could have developed due to the fact that acid tends to dissolve, therefore, in order to maintain a visible effect, it is recommended to repeat the course of procedures on average 1 time in 6- 8 months , says our expert. - Addiction talk may have come about because women are "getting used" to a new reflection in the mirror, a beautiful, youthful face with clear contours and healthy, smooth, velvety skin and strive to remain the "better version" of themselves by regularly repeating the procedures. It is also possible that the psycho-emotional state of some women is to blame for everything, who, resorting to the help of cosmetologists and plastic surgeons, cross the boundaries of reason and abuse all kinds of beauty procedures.» .

Myth #5: Hyaluronic acid can be administered by a non-injection method, so there is no meaning torment yourself with injections

Actually:« Both methods are undeniably effective. Hyaluronic acid is actively used in cosmetology and is an integral component of microinjections in mesotherapy, biorevitalization, contouring.

A prolonged result can also be achieved through a non-injection effect on the skin, however, the duration of the effect will largely be determined by the individual characteristics of the patient's skin. For example, an innovative method of laser biorevitalization on the Hialurox device without injections and pain is now in demand: this is a light laser rejuvenation that uses hyaluronic acid-based ampoules: (penetration of biologically active substance occurs through the pores). This technique allows you to achieve hydration and nutrition of the surface layers of the skin, but it cannot be called a full-fledged replacement for classical biorevitalization.. E it's more of an alternative» .

And there are many legends around it. Either it is declared almost a panacea for skin aging, and then it turns out that it was a joke that the molecules do not penetrate beyond the stratum corneum and the moisturizing effect is only a temporary phenomenon. Then, that all the power is in injections. And finally, they suggest taking hyaluronic acid as a supplement, they say, so it definitely gets inside, hang on, skin! We decided to figure out what's what and draw our own conclusions.

1. Hyaluronic acid is not only a cosmetic ingredient

Hyaluronic acid, a linear polysaccharide of animal origin, is part of the connective and epithelial tissue, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, and the vitreous body of the eyes. For the skin, hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture regulator, maintaining a normal level of water balance in the cells, making it supple and dense to the touch.

If for some reason the amount of hyaluronic acid in the basal layer of the epidermis decreases, the healing processes are disrupted, elasticity decreases, the skin becomes dry, irritated and sensitive.

2. Hyaluronic acid can be obtained in many ways

More precisely, two, from animal raw materials (cock combs, ophthalmic vitreous body of cattle) or synthesizing by biotechnological methods. Natural cosmetics do not use hyaluronic acid of animal origin.

3. This is the width, this is the height

Hyaluronic acid is of two types: consisting of small and large molecules. Large molecules (actually hyaluronic acid - hyaluronic acid) are most often used for subcutaneous injections, while small molecules are used as moisturizing and regenerating components in cosmetic products.

For a long time, it was believed that the use of small molecules in creams is meaningless, because, unlike large molecules, they do not have a pronounced moisturizing effect. However, later it turned out that, firstly, small molecules are still able to attract moisture, especially if there are enough of them. And secondly, due to their small size, they can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, acting on the receptors of fibroblasts (cells that synthesize components of the intercellular substance), stimulating them to start the process of producing new hyaluronic acid.

As a "small" molecule in cosmetics, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid - sodium hyaluronate (Sodium Hyaluronate) is used. By the way, the rule “the more the better” does not work in the case of hyaluronic acid. Unlike most dietary supplements, it works at very low concentrations (0.01-0.1%), so don't be discouraged if you see it at the end of the ingredient list.

4. Moisturize while drying?

Hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetics as a moisturizing component, however, few people know that it works - having the ability to attract and retain a large number of water molecules, at low air humidity, hyaluronic acid can dry out the upper layers of the epidermis, creating a feeling of skin tightness. To avoid this, you need to either use products with hyaluronic acid in a humid climate (for example, at sea), or apply a moisturizer or emulsion on top, which will prevent the effect of tightening the skin.

5. And the sun ...

It used to be believed that the amount of hyaluronic acid decreases with age, and this is one of the reasons for the loss of skin elasticity. Now there is an opinion that the most important factor leading to a decrease in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin is ... the sun. More precisely, damage to the skin by UV-B rays, due to which the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts decreases, and at the same time the processes of its decay intensify. At the same time, decay products accumulate in the skin and are removed from it rather slowly.

6. Honey, you need to inject yourself!

Hyaluronic acid is used as a filler (injectable) in anti-aging therapy and to moisturize the skin. In general, there is an opinion that hyaluronic acid in creams is not absorbed and the only way to increase skin hydration is to undergo a course of mesotherapy. Moreover, some cosmetologists suggest starting injections from the age of 25, so to speak "for the future". Here is what cosmetologist Tiina Orasmäe-Meder thinks about this:

“It is important for practitioners to understand that the quality of the drug always determines the nature of the effect of the procedure, but at the same time, side effects and complications are possible even when using the highest quality and proven drugs. Hyaluronic acid is present in the connective tissue, dermis and epidermis, and the regulation of its amount is determined by natural mechanisms.

Any introduction of HA from the outside activates the mechanisms of regulation, therefore, contouring, etc. cannot be considered a completely controlled process: after the drug enters the skin, the rate of its degradation and probable changes in tissues will be determined by the state of health and the individual characteristics of the body as a whole.

The effect of external rejuvenation, reducing the severity of wrinkles and improving skin tone can persist for a different time. It is important to understand that any introduction of significant amounts of HA locally leads to the activation of the synthesis of metalloproteinases, which also include collagenases and elastase, the synthesis of which is closely related to the synthesis of hyaluronidases. Therefore, the degradation of the injected hyaluronic acid can occur with a simultaneous increase in the degradation of its own collagen and elastin, which does not contribute to the preservation of skin elasticity.

In general, I would like to once again warn specialists against excessive enthusiasm for the injection of HA, primarily against the too frequent use of this method. The local administration of HA preparations in order to compensate for the deficiency of one's own HA has a therapeutic and aesthetic effect, but the use of HA for “prophylactic injections” is highly debatable.”

7. Shall we clap a glass?

In addition to creams and injections, hyaluronic acid can be consumed orally in the truest sense of the word - in the form of tablets and drinks. There are especially many such nutritional supplements in the Asian market. Manufacturers promise to increase skin hydration, which means to make it more elastic and smooth from the inside - not like these dubious creams that are known to remain on the surface of the skin ...

What can be answered here? Unfortunately, so far there are no independent studies that would confirm that regular intake of hyaluronic acid can increase the moisture-retaining properties of the skin. All data and figures are given by the manufacturers themselves, which makes it possible to doubt their objectivity.

Many ladies who took dietary supplements with hyaluronic acid note that the functioning of the joints improves - they stop squeaking, pain in osteoporosis decreases. That is, hyaluronic acid, which has entered the body, is used to maintain connective tissues. Whether there is something "for the skin" is unknown. In any case, these additives are considered harmless, except that you should not place all responsibility for your appearance on them.

Sources:
“Hyaluronic acid”, Tiina Orasmäe-Meder
“Cosmetic chemistry”, T. Puchkova