Hairdressing and hairdressing salons. Moscow hairdressers Andreev hairdresser

The whole history of hairdressing began from the moment when a person wanted to decorate his appearance in order to stand out. Primitive man looked into the river, saw his reflection and thought that his hair, intercepted by a leopard skin, would look much more interesting than just hanging out without anything. Why not? - thought the ancient man and began to put his grandiose plan into practice.
The result exceeded all expectations, the first hairstyle was distinguished by its sophistication from the general mass of heads of its fellow tribesmen, and its practicality simply amazed the imagination. The first fashion show went off with a bang. Amazed fellow tribesmen wanted the same headbands for themselves... This is how, or approximately this, the birth of a new art form began - hairdressing.

In the 50s, Marilyn Monroe appeared in world cinema. Her series of roles are stories of beautiful blondes with eyes that open for diamonds and close for kisses. In the late 50s, after Roger Vadim's film And God Created Woman, Brigitte Bardot became the idol of youth. She introduces a whole range of hairstyles into fashion: straight and long flowing hair, ponytail, fluffy babette with a backcomb. In the 60s, another future movie star, who would be called the most beautiful woman in the world, dyed her hair blonde. This is Catherine Deneuve. “She looked like Brigitte Bardot,” the journalists wrote.

Already in the 18th century, there were fashion magazines, from which ladies learned about fashion trends not only in clothing, but also in hairstyles. These are the “Lady's Toilet Library”, “English, French and German Fashion Store”, “Fashion Monthly Supplement”, etc.
1801 - Alexander I issues a Decree to cut hair and braids to only 4 inches.
1806 - Cadets were ordered to cut their hair into a “comb” style.
1807 - officers wear braids only on special occasions.

There were few barber shops in the cities, and barbers wandered around, carrying their instruments with them. They walked around bazaars, courtyards and apartments, looking for clients. A wooden chair invariably dangled around their necks, on which clients were seated right there on the street. The appearance of a barber on the street always became an event. Onlookers immediately gathered around, passers-by stopped to listen to their buffoonery sayings: “We shave, we cut the hair with a beaver-hedgehog, we treat the lousy ones, we make bald ones out of the bald ones, we curl the curls, we straighten the crimps, we comb the curls, we comb the parting, we wash the wig, we open the blood, We’ll trim the callus, buy and cut the braid, glue the flies, trim and shave. Banks, leeches, a set of chest steppe grass! These sayings are a kind of list of works and services performed by barbers. In addition to the chair, barbers carried with them bulky boxes filled with intricate tools and perfumes. They contained lancets, several types of scissors, wide razors, a vessel for storing live leeches, simple medical instruments, mysterious medicines in dark blue bottles, as well as some “homemade lipstick recommended for hair growth.” The barber in Russia is a unique profession, which included not only hairdressing skills, but also the duties of a home-grown doctor: he performed bloodletting, extracted teeth and even treated wounds.

The barber business began to die out in the 90s of the 19th century. It was even subject to bans. It was replaced by hairdressing.
After the War of 1812, French prisoners changed their uniforms to barber dresses. The French were a resounding success. Noble princes hired real hairdressers from Paris. Hair salons owned by foreigners opened in large cities. They were furnished with expensive furniture, mirrors, display cases, and a lot of perfumes and cosmetics. There were fashionable French magazines on the tables, and service was expensive. Russia in the field of fashion was completely focused on France. The salons, for the most part, were run by French masters. The first hairdressing salons, or, as they were called, “halls for haircuts and shaving,” appeared in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Only wealthy people could use their services. On the facades of these establishments there were signs depicting elegantly combed gentlemen with hair shiny with lipstick. The abundance of hairdressing salons and the publication of fashion magazines contributed to the spread of all kinds of hairstyles. There were no hairdressing schools in pre-revolutionary Russia. Training took place “in boys”. And the old masters were in no hurry to share their professional secrets. Ladies' masters - the French often assigned Russian hairdressers only the role of apprentices.
In 1900, at the World Exhibition in Paris, for the first time, Russian hairdresser Ivan Andreevich Andreev was awarded the “For Art” award, the Golden Cross and a Diploma confirming the title of Honored Professor of Hairdressing. After this, Andreev I.A. was invited to the jury, as an expert at exhibitions, competitions, and hairstyle shows. He visited many capitals of Europe. In 1909, Andreev I.A. published a book of his memoirs, an album of hairstyles that were awarded high awards, and the first catalog was published.
With the accession of Nicholas I to the throne, theatrical art flourished: Russian opera was born, and the Alexandria Theater was opened. The flourishing of Russian theatrical art enlivened life, ladies appeared in society, striking with the variety of clothes and hairstyles. This was the heyday of the Biedermeier style in Russia.

Since the reign of Alexander I, men have not worn wigs; sideburns and mustaches have been in fashion; since the reign of Alexander III, mustaches and beards have become fashionable again, later divided in two downwards.
So, we can conclude that hairdressing in Russia was not distinguished as a separate art form and, perhaps, the work of arranging hair in a hairstyle in pre-Petrine times was considered a craft.
In connection with the emancipation of women by Peter the Great, as mentioned above, a widespread fascination with Western fashion for clothing and hairstyles began, into which, however, elements of originality were introduced. But the art of creating hairstyles did not develop independently in Russia.

Permanent of the Art Nouveau era. Ivan Andreev - Russian kuafer

In 1904-1905 Karl Nestle in Germany invented thermal perm: hot perm - chemical perm using drugs and heat treatment with heaters. The method was patented in 1908, but manually heating the curls was cumbersome and inconvenient, and the curling time took more than 10 hours. And so, in 1924, Joseph Meyer uses flat curling of strands, and the Frenchman Marcel invents curling irons that create waviness close to natural. The tongs had different thicknesses and were made of a special type of steel. Hot curling with tongs appeared. Improvements to the Meyer apparatus became widespread throughout Europe. The device was attached to the ceiling or on a stand. Wires and hoses hung from the ceiling. This type of electric curling is still preserved in some hairdressing salons. There was also a device for heating curlers with twisted strands with steam. This perm was carried out under the influence of three factors:

1) chemical (curling liquid);
2) physical (ambient temperature);
3) mechanical (winding strands with curlers).

Coiffures de Mr. Borderie, 36, Bd. de Strasbourg, Paris. (1910)

The disadvantage of this method is that part of the straight hair remains 2-3 cm from the roots and the hair structure is not restored, as can be done with the help of neutralization in the modern version. Modern perm has supplanted all previous methods of perm and has won a strong place in hairdressing salons and at home among hairdressing lovers.

The “beauty salon” of the early twentieth century was quite easy to find. The indispensable sign in the form of scissors cut out of tin or cardboard, and popular prints with simple images of the services provided left no room for doubt - this was a hairdressing salon. However, the interior decoration of most of these establishments was also not particularly elegant. Rather, on the contrary, the barber and several assistants received the client easily, without any fuss: dirty corners, peeling walls and flies flying everywhere seemed an integral part of the interior.

Coiffures de Mr. Borderie, 36, Bd. de Strasbourg, Paris. (1914)

Having seated the newcomer in a chair and wrapped him in a sheet, the master loudly shouted: “Boy, water!” - and the “boy” immediately placed a tin of hot water on the mirror holder. Then the visitor was shaved or cut in the usual manner, he paid and hurried about his business. But a “holy place” is never empty, and the appearance of a new client meant that the procedure would be repeated in the same sequence. Therefore, the “boy” had to constantly keep hot water ready to serve it to the owner again and again. And woe was the slow one - punishment followed immediately! Boiling water, along with dental work and performing various small tasks, was proudly called “training in hairdressing,” and all this continued for more than one year. One can only guess what kind of hairdressers these students turned out to be...

However, Mikhailo Lomonosov was right: “The Russian land can give birth to its own Platos and quick minds of Newtons!” The path of one Russian coiffure, which began, like many others, as an “errand boy,” led to the title of Honored Professor of Hairdressing. According to some sources, in his birth certificate his name was Ivan Andreevich Kozyrev, but the Russian Empire and Europe recognized him under the name Andreev. The pseudonym that the master took for himself made him famous throughout the world! But until this moment, Ivan Andreevich had to, as they say, take a full sip of grief.

Coiffures de Mr. Brillaud-Noirat, 7, rue des Capucines, Paris. (1913)

He was born into a family of serf peasants in the Kaluga province and from childhood was accustomed to hard work. While still very young, Vanyatka easily handled livestock and was preparing to become a worthy successor to his father. But the family still lived from hand to mouth - sometimes there was not even bread in the house. To get out of poverty, in 1861, his parents sent young Ivan to Moscow to earn money. Finding himself in a huge unfamiliar city, he grabbed every opportunity to earn extra money, secretly dreaming of a “pure” profession - being a sex worker in a tavern or rising to the rank of clerk in a hardware store seemed like the ultimate dream for the young man. But fate decreed otherwise...
One day on the street Andreev ran into his fellow countryman: he, having got a job as a janitor, was quite happy with life and did not understand why Ivan should look for a better life. But he agreed to help - he took him to the barber shop Artemov, whose establishment was located on Sretenka. Mostly poor people and people from the Sukharevsky market went there to get their hair cut, so there was no shortage of visitors, especially on weekends. After carefully examining the teenager, Artemov, breaking down, agreed to take him on as a student.

Coiffures de la Maison Garand, 55, Bd. Haussmann, Paris. (1913)

Later, having already achieved worldwide fame, Ivan Andreevich reluctantly recalled this period of his life. But, fortunately, he still shared his impressions with several people. And one of the listeners who earned his trust turned out to be the famous namesake of the great coiffure - Leonid Andreev. The story told shocked the writer so much that he used it as the basis for his story called “Petka in the Dacha”...
The time of apprenticeship with Artemov became a real hell. Vanya slept on the floor, putting a log under his head and covering himself with a torn fur coat, but this pleasure was very short-lived. After all, we had to get up at five in the morning: we had to go get water. In winter - in the owner's old boots with a tub on a sled, and in summer - with heavy buckets on a yoke.
In those days, a barber's apprentice, contrary to common sense, had the least to do with a barber's instrument. In addition to water, the subject of special attention and care were... the owner's boots - the teenager was ordered to polish them until they shine every day. In addition, he had to set up the samovar in a timely manner so that the owners, upon getting out of bed, could “take a bite” of hot tea, as well as sweep and wash the floor, and chop wood. So that the “boy” is not lazy and has time to do everything that is assigned to him, both the owner, the mistress, and the masters consider it their civic duty to constantly “educate” him with the help of fists, rods, slaps and slaps on the head...

Hairstyles for women, France, 1910s.] (1913)

At ten in the morning, the barber Artemov, who suffered from tuberculosis and was therefore always in the gloomiest mood, gathered his students in one of the rooms and began learning the basics of hairdressing. The lesson was that the boys were first told about how to make wigs, and then given tasks to work on independently. At that time, many barbers had tailoring workshops that accepted orders for the then fashionable artificial hairpieces and braids. Maintaining such an institution was a very profitable business, since they usually employed the same students whose labor was worth mere pennies. True, the requirements for such work, despite the meager pay, were extremely strict: during the day it was necessary to make thirty stripes in three parts, sewing one hair into the monture. The occupation required not only certain skills, finger dexterity and good eyesight, but also enormous perseverance - the slightest mistake could lead to hopeless damage to the entire product. It’s not hard to guess what followed... Having found a free moment, Ivan watched with all his eyes as the craftsmen shaved and cut, curled their locks and fabricated their sideburns, trying to remember everything, down to the smallest details...
At the end of his ninth year of apprenticeship, Ivan Kozyrev accidentally met the then young hairdresser Agapov. Noticing the young man’s undoubted talent, he immediately offered Ivan a six-year contract, according to which he had to perform all the duties of a master, that is, cut, shave and perform hairstyles of varying levels of complexity. Of course, consent was received immediately - and a new life began for Ivan...

Coiffures vues au théâtre réjane à la première de "Zaza." (1914)

Working in a thriving salon gave the young man a unique opportunity not only to significantly improve his skills, but also to be the first to learn about new products and trends in hairdressing fashion of that time. And he worked tirelessly! Moreover, even then Ivan clearly set a goal for himself - to save enough money to open his own hairdresser. He had no doubt that the services of his establishment would be in demand - the “golden hands” of the Moscow coiffure were becoming increasingly popular among grateful clients.
It seems that the number 9 played a significant role in his fate: nine years of apprenticeship led him to Agapov, and nine years of hard work after that allowed him to start his own business. It is known for sure that the “Andreevskaya” hairdresser opened in 1879, but there are two versions about its location. According to the first, it opened on Kuznetsky Most, where already at that time there were many fashionable fashion stores. According to another version, Andreev’s hairdressing salon operated on Petrovka. Be that as it may, when setting up his own salon, Ivan Andreevich reasoned that “he would not spare money - as long as it was comfortable and pleasant for visitors.”

Coiffures de Mr. Madon, coiffeur de Mme. Poincare, 4, Bd. Malesherbes, Paris. (1913)

In an effort to make his establishment as different as possible from other wretched barber shops, he, familiar with the internal structure of European hairdressing salons from pictures from fashion magazines, acquired the best furniture, tools and newfangled products. It all looked like this: cosmetics and perfumes were displayed in glass display cases, samples of fashionable ladies' hairstyles and various accessories for them were also placed here, and books were displayed nearby. Later, a store was opened at the salon, where visitors could purchase a fashionable hairpiece or their favorite hair care product.
Following the European model, Andreev ordered that only one operation be performed in each room of his salon. Ivan Andreev's hairdressing salon is thriving, thanks to which his name is becoming widely known. True, so far only in Moscow, but Andreev is working tirelessly, preparing for real glory. And she didn’t have to wait long!

Coiffures de Mr. Perrin, 28, Fg. St. Honoré, Paris. (1910)

The first significant award was the “Big Silver Medal”, received in 1885 for participation in the All-Russian Exhibition. But this was only the beginning - after another three years, Ivan Andreevich became famous as the first Russian hairdresser to gain recognition in France. In 1888, in Paris, three hairstyles he created out of competition created a real sensation. For them, Ivan Andreev received diamond academic Palms and received applause not only from the fashionable public, but also from distinguished French hairdressers. After winning in Paris, his career took off sharply. In 1900, at the World Exhibition in Paris, a talented Russian master made a splash throughout the world by winning a competition in which about fifty experienced hairdressers took part. And he not only won, but actually “took off” the entire prize fund, receiving several awards at once: “For Art”, “Big Gold Medal”, “Big Silver Medal” and the Golden Cross along with a diploma for the title of professor of hairdressing. Andreev won his honorary prizes for excellently executed competitive hairstyles in the “royal style”: a la Louis XV and XVI, but the title of professor, along with the subsequent triumphal honor, went to him not only for his skill, but also for his amazing ability to create.
In a word, it was an undoubted success! The Russian master who amazed everyone was crowned with dignity: according to tradition, the winner should have been seated on the “Golden Chair”, but in relation to Andreev the matter was not limited to simple “seating”. The admiring crowd carried him on this throne several times around Montmartre. And the directorate of the competition, captivated by the incredible talent of the Russian coiffure, organized a ball in his honor...

Coiffures de Mr. Julien Laumet, 15, Place de la Madeleine, Paris. (1914)

Andreev’s further fate is no less successful. Returning to Moscow triumphant, he became the most fashionable hairdresser in the city. Only very wealthy people could afford haircuts “from Andreev”: prices in his salon were always quite high, but after the success in Paris they became simply crazy. Andreev enjoyed well-deserved authority not only as a highly qualified master, but also as a professional - after winning the World Exhibition, he was repeatedly invited as an expert and jury member to numerous exhibitions, hairdressing competitions and hairstyle shows. And in 1909 and 1912, at the numerous requests of his colleagues and students, Andreev even published catalogs of his hairstyles, which became very widespread - many famous European magazines published pictures of his works.

Coiffures de Mr. Lalanne, 100, Fg. St. Honoré, Paris. (1913)

In addition, he continued to engage in hairdressing, teaching the secrets of his craft to many people and running his own salon and store. And the constant striving for perfection forced Andreev to closely monitor all changes in the industry, mastering new tools and studying all kinds of cosmetics. Thanks to this, he was one of the first to start doing short haircuts, which became extremely popular in the 20s of the last century. His own work, admittedly distinguished by its incredible purity of line and special elegance of styling, became a model for subsequent generations of hairdressers. He was the first Russian hairdresser to create his own school: many of his students, in turn, became famous hairdressers. Andreev taught them the main thing that he himself knew how to do: preserve individuality and appreciate beauty.

Ancient world. Already in primitive society, a person was forced to perform the simplest hairdressing procedures: cutting his hair with a flint knife, burning it over a flame. Men tied their hair into buns with a leather strap, women twisted their hair into ropes and braided them.

The most ancient sources tell us amazing information: the hairdresser was the most important person in his tribe. He was both a healer and a priest. Ancient man was very superstitious, and prehistoric tribes believed that both good and evil spirits entered every person through the hair. In their opinion, it was possible to drive out evil spirits from a person only by cutting his hair. And if you consider that each tribe had its own ritual of expelling evil spirits through haircuts, it becomes clear that the hairdresser was an indispensable member of the community.

Ancient Egypt.

The first signs of hairdressing are found around the 5th millennium BC among the Egyptians. They were engaged in coloring hair and nails, and paid great attention to body care. During excavations, vessels with cosmetics were found. Much attention was paid to making wigs.

They were made from papyrus, fabric, animal wool, and painted in different colors. The pharaoh, for example, wore a wig, as if woven from many braids soaked in fragrant oil. The Egyptians already permed their hair and wigs using cold (“wet”) styling. The strands were wound onto wooden bobbins and coated with mud; when dry, the mud fell off. Toilet procedures were performed by slaves, and each had her own specialty.

Ancient Greece.

But it was only among the ancient Greeks that numerous rules and methods for performing hairstyles, haircuts and shaving acquired not only names, but also the true meaning of hairdressing. In Greece, combing, curling, and putting on a wig was a kind of ritual that sometimes lasted several hours. These procedures were performed by specially trained slaves, who were called calamisters.

Each procedure - washing, coloring, curling, cutting hair - was performed separately. Slave hairdressers had to not only skillfully comb their hair, but also follow the rules of aesthetics. They had to maintain proportion and harmony of hairstyle with facial features.

In Greece there were already real salons where beard and hair trimming was done, as well as nail treatment.
In most cases, the hairstyle was made from curled hair, so metal rod-tongs (kalamis) were improved. They were a round rod that was heated on a brazier, then strands of hair were wound onto it. To give hair shine, they were lubricated with olive oil. Cone-shaped bags containing the fragrant essence of jasmine extract and goat fat were hidden in the finished hairstyle to flavor the strands.

Ancient Rome.

Among the ancient Romans, as well as the ancient Greeks, hairdressing received special attention. The Greek style dominated there for quite a long time until it developed its own. Roman patricians spent many hours doing their hair.
Tonsoress slaves skillfully carried out various work with hair: they washed it, rinsed it in aromatic solutions infused with herbs. They performed their hairstyles by hot curling with metal rods, and also did “wet” cold styling with adhesive compounds.

They cut their hair with special sickle-shaped razors. With the advent of fashion for shaved men's faces, hairdressers began to use, in addition to sickle-shaped copper razors, hot compresses - highly heated linen towels applied to the skin. The slave who carried out the final styling of her hair and decorated her hair with jewelry, sprinkled it with gold dust, azure powder, and soaked it in aromatic oils was called kipasis.
In Ancient Rome, there were so-called cosmetics - slaves who decorated the body and face.

Medieval Europe.

In early Medieval Europe, pursuits in the field of fashion and hairstyles were considered sinful, everything carnal was considered “of the devil” and was banished - including, of course, cosmetics. Women hid their hair under a cape; complex hairstyles were no longer needed. Most men had their hair cut in a bowl cut.

Combs at this time were made of wood or ivory, and in some cases of gold. Angels and mythological animals were carved on them. Around this time, brushes made from pork bristles and hedgehog needles appeared.

And yet, it was during this era of the Inquisition and religious wars that in the emerging cities, artisans united into guilds. Barbers and barbers fought for position in society. It is known that already in Ancient Italy the production and sale of cosmetics and perfumes was developed, and its center was the city of Capua near Naples. Incense, essences, ointments, makeup products, and lipsticks were produced there.

Henry VIII approves the Charter of barber-surgeons.

In addition to shaving and haircuts, medieval barbers, who were called bathhouse attendants, provided city residents with other hygienic services. Their guild emblem was a copper bowl for whipping soap foam, which was also used as a gong to signal the opening of the bathhouse. In this way, visitors learned that the water for bathing was already hot enough.

Hairdressing services.

On the sign above the hairdresser's head: "Wigs here, also sausages, Black Pudding SCOTCH tablets, itch powder, BALLS breeches & small items from the manufacturer."

In addition to bath attendants, in medieval cities there were guilds of barbers, or barbers, who later merged with bath attendants. Barbers also offered medical services: they performed cupping, bled, applied leeches, pulled teeth - for this reason they willingly called themselves surgeons. During the Renaissance, barber shops grew in cities like mushrooms after rain.
At the beginning of the 15th century, the guild of bath attendants and barbers received the right to have weapons and a banner with the guild emblem - an image of a magpie. Members of the workshop were allowed to wear a bandage with a coat of arms embroidered on it as a sign of the workshop; on occasion, it could be used to compress the arteries.

The hairdresser removes the bone from the throat. Artists Dalziel Brothers 1864.

The barber pulls out a tooth. Artist Adrien Van Jantz 1630-35

Street barber in the east. 1694

Badge of the St. Petersburg Russian Crafts Council of the hairdressing and barber shop (1885).

Street barber. Federico Gatti 1840.

Satirical image of a hairdresser.

In Paris, hairdressers were specially trained at the Academy of Hairdressing, created by the groom of King Louis XV, Master Legros.

There were about 1,200 men's hairdressers in Paris, each nobleman had his own. Fashion changed constantly, literally every week, and everyone wanted to look the “latest”. Both women's and men's hairstyles were pomaded and powdered; there were real problems with fleas and even mice.

Parisian hairdresser (coiffeur).

Public hair salons.

Time has slowly changed attitudes towards the process of cutting and shaving. There were fewer and fewer street barbers. Some of them settled in hotel lobbies, others united and opened the first “cooperative” hairdressing salons.

Hairdresser. 1841

Second shaving of the head (1872). Znamensky M.

In the 60-70s. In the 18th century, hairstyles consisted of entire hair structures half a meter high, erected by skilled hairdressers-coiffeurs over the course of several hours.

In Paris, hairdressers were specially trained at the Academy of Hairdressing, created by the groom of King Louis XV, Master Legros. At this time, more and more new hairstyles appear as a result of competition between coiffers.
Women's hairstyles were incredibly intricate and complex in design. It was almost impossible to sleep in such hairstyles. The skin often itched. They saved themselves from this scourge with special sticks, which they used to scratch the scalp in order to at least slightly reduce the constant itching. They were often the cause of breeding lice and other insects.

In 1780, coiffer Leonard came up with a complex hairstyle for Queen Marie Antoinette, decorated with waves of chiffon, feathers and jewelry. In order to complete it, it was necessary to resort to the help of a frame. The support was braided with hair, masking the iron or wooden rods.

Marie Antoinette

Up to a dozen hairpieces were used for such high hairstyles. They were attached to belts into which the entire hairstyle was divided. Often the frames were filled with cambric handkerchiefs or thin paper, so as not to weigh down the hairstyle too much. The revival of theatrical performances led to a side specialty in the making of theatrical wigs.

The democratization of fashion and the simplification of hairstyles were facilitated by the French bourgeois revolution of 1789, which smoothed out class differences, but did not completely eliminate them.

Royal Russia.

In Russia, in the field of fashion, they focused on France. Many salons belonged to French masters. Fashion magazines were subscribed from Paris, where even hairdressing competitions were held. In 1860, Russian masters Aganov and Andreev took first place in the competition. And in 1888-1890, Ivan Andreev received a number of awards for his hairstyles and an Honorary Diploma of Honored Professor of Hairdressing. The nature of hairstyles of the 1890-1900s is changing again, due to changes that occurred in social life at the end of the century. Fashion is becoming even more international, a business style appears, expressed in the simplicity and rationality of hairstyles.

In 1675, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich issued a decree: “not to adopt foreign customs, not to shave the hair on the head, not to wear foreign clothes.” The majority of the population during this period used the services of “cold”, itinerant barbers. The duties of barbers included not only cutting and shaving, but also bleeding, applying leeches, pulling teeth, and treating wounds. Serfs (“stupid artists”) were also engaged in hairdressing, and they were kept under great strictness, not allowing them to work for others.

Peter's reforms introduced German and then French fashions.
Under the reign of Peter I, women finally ceased to be recluses and were able to attend balls and assemblies. This is where the nature of a woman played a major role. Trying to outdo the rest, the ladies increasingly demanded that their gentlemen sign up Western coiffers for lack of their own.

This is how large-volume hairstyles with thick curls and decorations made from expensive jewelry came into Russian fashion. Over time, Russia nevertheless developed its own style, which was dictated by the uniqueness of Russian nature. Gradually, the ladies' hairstyles became less pretentious, more modest, which has always distinguished the women of Russia.

The old Russian men's pot hairstyle was preserved only among peasants and Old Believers.

Wealthy people wore wigs. During the reign of Elizabeth Petrovna, a Decree on the benefits of barber shaving was introduced. The beard badge was abolished in 1762.

Already in the 18th century, there were fashion magazines, from which ladies learned about fashion trends not only in clothing, but also in hairstyles. These are “Prince Shalikov’s Ladies’ Magazine”, “Ladies’ Toilet Library”, “English, French and German Fashion Store”, “Fashionable Monthly Supplement”, etc.

Barbers carried around bulky boxes filled with intricate tools and perfumes. A wooden chair invariably dangled around their necks, on which clients were seated right there on the street. The appearance of a barber on the street always became an event. Onlookers immediately gathered around, passers-by stopped to listen to their buffoonish orders: "
“We shave, we cut beaver haircuts, we treat lousy ones, we make bald ones out of bald ones, we curl curls, we comb the curls, we part them, we wash the wig, we open the blood, we cut the callus, we buy and cut the braid, we glue the flies, we cut and shave. Banks, leeches, a set of chest steppe grass!
These sayings are a kind of list of works and services performed by barbers.

In addition to the chair, the invariable accessory of barbers, as we have already noted, was a device. It contained lancets, several types of scissors, wide razors, a vessel for storing live leeches, simple medical instruments, mysterious medicines in dark blue bottles, as well as some “homemade lipstick recommended for hair growth”... A barber in Russia - a unique profession that included not only hairdressing skills, but also the duties of a home-grown doctor: he performed bloodletting, extracted teeth and even treated wounds.

Itinerant barbers were reputed to be highly skilled masters of hairdressing, of which they themselves were often proud. Each of them had its own circle of clients and a unique legalization. One served, for example, at cheap city baths, another went “by invitation” from house to house, the third worked in an expensive fashionable salon.

The barber business began to die out in the 90s of the 19th century. It was even subject to bans. It was replaced by hairdressing.

Gennady Spirin Illustration for Gogol's story "The Nose".

After the War of 1812, French prisoners changed their uniforms to barber dresses. The French were a resounding success. Noble princes hired real hairdressers from Paris. Hair salons owned by foreigners are opening in major cities. They were furnished with expensive furniture, mirrors, display cases, and a lot of perfumes and cosmetics.
There were fashionable French magazines on the tables, and service was expensive.

Russia in the field of fashion was completely focused on France. The salons, for the most part, were run by French masters.
The first hairdressing salons, or, as they were called, “halls for haircuts and shaving,” appeared in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Note that only wealthy people could use their services, due to the fact that any of them were very expensive. On the facades of these establishments there were signs depicting elegantly combed gentlemen with hair shiny with lipstick.

Here, in the halls, they not only gave haircuts, but also sold perfumes. The abundance of hairdressing salons and the publication of magazines on hairdressing and hairdressing contributed to the spread of all kinds of hairstyles. Despite the external gloss and brilliance (the hairdressers were dressed in good suits, wore a shirtfront and a colored tie), their work was a complete humiliation in front of rich clients.
There were no hairdressing schools in pre-revolutionary Russia. Training took place “in boys”. And the old masters were in no hurry to share their professional secrets.
In 1860, Russian masters Agapov and Andreev took first place in the competition. And in 1888-1890. Ivan Andreevich Andreev received a number of awards for his hairstyles and an Honorary Diploma of Honored Professor of Hairdressing.
In 1886, for participation in the All-Russian Exhibition, he received a Large Silver Medal. And, participating out of competition in 1888 in Paris and performing three hairstyles, he amazed the High Jury and was awarded Diamond Academic Palms.
In 1900, at the World Exhibition in Paris, he was awarded the “For Art” award, the Golden Cross and a Diploma confirming the title of Honored Professor of Hairdressing. After this, Andreev became a recognized professor of hairdressing; he was invited to serve on the jury and as an expert at exhibitions, competitions, and hairstyle shows. He visited many capitals of Europe.

In 1909 I. A. Andreev released a book of his memoirs, an Album of hairstyles that were awarded high awards, and the first catalog was published.

Hairdressing in the USSR.

In the first years of the 20th century, admiration for foreign countries was again observed. Ladies' masters - the French - assigned Russian hairdressers only the role of apprentices.

And although they had already proven that they were not afraid of any complexity of ladies' hairdressing, the dependence on foreign countries, ingrained in their minds, continued to weigh heavily on Russian masters. In the first three decades of the 20th century, hairdressing art was at a low level. The First World War, revolution, civil war - all this had a negative impact on the standard of living of society, not to mention hairdressing services.

In 1914, the “Russian Haircut” appeared - the first short women’s haircut, which brought such a gentle charm to the appearance of Russian women. Short hair has given a new impetus to hairdressers. They began to be laid using cold styling or hot tongs.

This was at least some kind of “progress”. Only by the end of the 30s did a fairly wide network of hairdressing salons appear in Russia, providing the population with a wide range of services.

KUPREYANOV Nikolai Nikolaevich. "Ladies' hairdresser" 1920-1922

Bulgakov Boris Petrovich. "At the hairdresser's." 1924

Along with the “Foxtrot” haircuts that were fashionable at that time, women’s hairdressers successfully performed complex hairstyles using the method of styling hair with hot tongs.
Haircut "Foxtrot"

Page haircut.

Long-term perm (permanent) was also popular. On short hair it was performed horizontally, on long hair - vertically. The technological process was carried out using steam or electric devices in a rather primitive way, since the equipment was still made handicraft. Mostly metallic paints were used for painting.

In 1936, a special order of the People's Commissariat of Public Utilities of the RSFSR provided not only for expanding the network of hairdressing salons and improving their work, but also for a radical change in the work methods of the craftsmen. New rules and new price lists were developed.

Of great importance was the resolution on assigning categories to masters depending on their qualifications and on the introduction of the title “master of hairdressing.” The first salons open. Hairdressers begin to use electric hair clippers, and devices for electric and steam curling appear. Hairdressers received work books in 1938. By the 40s, thermal perm became firmly established in the arsenal of services of a ladies' hairdresser.

The Great Patriotic War destroyed everything that had been created; the country lost many qualified craftsmen.

In the post-war period, hairdressing salons began to rise again from the ashes. The chemical method of hair curling, invented in the thirties in the USA, would only be widely introduced into hairdressing services in Russia and other union republics of the former USSR by the fifties. Along with this, styling hair with curlers is becoming popular.

These types of work gradually replaced styling with hot tongs and curling with steam and electric devices from the practice of hairdressers. And the emergence of oxidative dyes from parophenylenediamine (urzol) made it possible to simplify the technology and expand the color range of shades when coloring hair.

Isolation from the outside world and government problems have reoriented the masses of people away from the natural human desire to be graceful, beautiful and to please others. The widespread perm by the end of the 50s resulted in women beginning to decorate their heads with small curls. But huge, smoothly combed heads with strong blunting also appear.

Typical hairstyle of a Soviet woman of the 50s.

And the Moscow festival decorated women with the “Crown of Peace” hairstyle.

Having crossed the middle of the century, hairdressing is slowly and surely rising once again from its knees.

The work of hairdressers in Russia is strongly influenced by cinema and illustrated magazines. The women woke up from a terrible dream and set the hairdressers to work with particular zeal. French actress Brigitte Bardot, who starred in the film “Babette Goes to War,” became a trendsetter among women for several decades.

Another actress, Marina Vladi, introduced straight hair into fashion after the film “The Witch.”

In 1963-1964. hair weaving is spreading. They began to use additional braids and chignons. Hairdressers after working hours sat at home weaving and tambouring wigs with hairpieces, fulfilling urgent orders from clients.
In the late 60s, men began to curl their hair using perms. And one more surprise. There is a renewed passion for wigs.
It was a real boom. At this point they were very popular in Europe and America. The wigs were synthetic, machine-made monofilament wigs and were worn by both women and men. Then the women of the USSR already showed a national trait - to buy a wig, but at the same time it must be German, or better yet, Japanese.

From this moment on, domestic goods are not in demand. This added more work to hairdressers, and there was a slight increase. Hairstyles began to combine several elements - cutting, curling, soft waves. The main tools of hairdressers are curlers and hair dryers.

Scenes from a Soviet hairdressing salon.

In the early seventies, there was an outflow of male hairdressers, and this was due to the unpopularity of the profession. Male craftsmen completed their work experience like law-abiding citizens. Young boys did not go to hairdressers, considering it shameful and humiliating to “pick around” in the client’s head. This attitude will continue until the end of the 20th century.
The beautiful half has come to replace it. Russian women began to intensively fill the vacated niche. They completely occupied all positions, from cleaners to hair salon owners. A young succession of masters is trying to master the achievements of their male predecessors.
In the mid-70s, the “Sassoon” haircut came to the USSR, which was proposed by Vidal Sassoon to English hairdressers.

This was the discovery of the century in haircut technology. The concept of a model haircut has appeared in the lexicon of hairdressers, and along with it the cost of the service is increasing. Many hairstyles are done using perms. Hairstyles were complemented by false hair - curls and braids. A network of hairdressing salons equipped with the latest technology is opening across the country.

Focusing on the West, the country holds competitions and shows, the first of which was held in 1970. In 1981, at an international hairdressing competition, Vazhey Mkhitaryan created the “Music” hairstyle, which won first place.

In all regions and cities of the USSR, experimental laboratories are appearing on the model of TsPKTB / OTPU TsPKTB Rosbytsoyuz / - Central Design and Technological Bureau of the Ministry of Consumer Affairs of the RSFSR. It was headed by Dolores Kondrashova.

Dolores Kondrashova

And finally, a few lyrical touches.
The art of barbers, barbers, hairdressers could not pass from the creativity of grateful humanity.

Perhaps, in terms of famous folklore, only plumbers can compete with hairdressers, and only with those from Odessa.
The beginning of the 20th century gave rise to and consolidated for many decades a well-known joke about an Odessa hairdresser who committed suicide, leaving a posthumous note: “You can’t get over everyone.”
Leonid Utesov in his book “Thank you, heart!” recalls that in his childhood there was an “eccentric Odessa hairdresser Perchikovich” who “found relief from his prosaic profession in the brass band he created, where he recruited children from neighboring streets.”
And the famous so-called criminal song “Ballroom Dancing School” told about an enterprising Odessa hairdresser who in the evenings changed the sign at his establishment, demonstrating the prototype of the famous hairdressing principle “two in one”. The song was performed by the “king of laughter” Vladimir Khenkin to wild applause:

"This is the school of Solomon Shklyar,
Ballroom dancing school, they tell you.
Two steps left, two steps right,
One step forward and two steps back."

American hairdresser. USA 1951.

Former US President Harry Truman. 1953

Barber. Manikaran, North India. year 2009. India these days is the most saturated in terms of the number of hairdressers, especially street hairdressers.

Hairdressers in St. Petersburg, what they were like before and what they are now - about all this in order. Let's start, as expected, with history.

For a long time, Slavic peoples wore long hair. Women wore braids, men, with the advent of Christianity, had long beards in the shape of a “spade”.

The most popular hairstyle among men of Ancient Rus', regardless of age, was the bowl haircut. Hairdressing was done either by the head of the family for the poor, or as a domestic servant for the wealthy.

Since the 13th century, as a consequence of the invasion of the Tatar-Mongol yoke, Russian people began to cut their hair and shave their heads, imitating Eastern traditions, but in 1675, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich issued a decree that prohibited “shave the hair on the head.” Hair stylists at this time were serfs, who were called “stupid artists.” They were kept strictly and did not have the right to work on the side.

The next innovation was introduced by Peter the Great, who issued a decree in 1702 to change the image. All residents of Russia had to change their shirts and bast shoes to European suits, change their hairstyles, and the male part of the population also had to shave their beards. Those who disobeyed were subject to a fine. Those who did not want to say goodbye to their beard paid a special fee.

Women, unlike men, were much luckier; they were finally given free rein! In the attempts of the ladies to outdo each other, the volume of hairstyles and curls on their heads began to grow in approximately the same way as the amount of their husbands’ expenses for their maintenance. It didn’t last long; Russian women’s hairstyles gradually developed their own discreet style.

Wealthy men at that time wore wigs, the Old Believers wore the same hairstyle of the blacksmith Vakula.

In the 18th century, the first fashion magazines appeared, cadets cut their hair into a comb, and officers wore braids only on special occasions.

Barbershops, or in our opinion, hairdressers, not that there were few in villages and cities! Barbers led a wandering lifestyle, carrying tools with them and looking for their clients in courtyards, apartments and bazaars. Instead of the modern ambiance of the salons, they had one wooden chair hanging around their necks, on which they cut their clients’ hair. The appearance of this character on the street became, as a rule, an event that was accompanied by unobtrusive self-promotion: “We shave, give a beaver haircut, treat lousy ones, make bald ones out of bald ones, curl the curls, straighten the crimps, comb the curls, comb the parting, rinse the wig, blood We’ll open it, trim the callus, buy and cut the braid, glue the flies, cut it and shave it. Banks, leeches, a set of chest steppe grass!

As you can see, the services of these traveling stylists even included cosmetology. What about cosmetology? In addition to cupping, leeching and hairdressing, they also performed bloodletting, extracted teeth and even treated wounds.

Hairdressers in St. Petersburg. Origin and formation

In the 90s of the 19th century, the barber business began to die and was even subject to bans. His business was replaced by hairdressing. The first hairdressing salons, or, as they were called, “halls for haircuts and shaving,” appeared in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

It was run mainly by French craftsmen, and only wealthy people could afford their services. There were no hairdressing schools in pre-revolutionary Russia. The training took place “in boys”, but often the French ladies' masters assigned Russian hairdressers only the role of apprentices.

Russian hairdressers were appreciated only in 1900 at the World Exhibition in Paris. Then, for the first time, our hairdresser Ivan Andreevich Andreev was given a Diploma confirming the title of an actual Honored Professor of Hairdressing, and was awarded the “For Art” and the Golden Cross awards.

During the era of Soviet power, hairdressing, for natural reasons, was at a low level. But already in the late 30s and 40s, a large network of hairdressing salons appeared with a diverse range of services. Women's hairdressers successfully styled hair using hot tongs and dyed hair with metallic dyes.

In the 50s, hairdressers used chemical perms and cold hair styling using curlers.

The development of hairdressing at this time does not pass without a trace: our industry produces a large amount of necessary equipment, and qualified craftsmen are trained in vocational schools, hairdressing salons are built according to standard designs, taking into account sanitary standards and requirements.

Nowadays, there are many laboratories at research institutes that develop the latest technologies, equipment and tools for hairdressing. All this significantly improves the work of modern salons.

For example, in the Apriori beauty salon in St. Petersburg, you will always find high service, friendly and qualified staff, professional cosmetics, and the latest generation technical equipment.

In Apriori beauty salons, they pay close attention to hygiene and safety. All offices are equipped with disinfection and disinfection equipment (microstop, ultraviolet lamps, dry-heat ovens, autoclave, etc.). Workplaces are specialized and equipped in accordance with the requirements for safe and high-quality services.

When applying for a job, salon masters must pass an exam to meet modern requirements and confirm their qualifications. A prerequisite is the presence of a health record, a document indicating graduation from a vocational educational institution, certificates of advanced training, and a portfolio of works.

Modern hairdressing salons have gone through such a difficult path from bowl haircuts and full beards to hardware cosmetology and the services of professional stylists.

When choosing your salon in St. Petersburg now, focus primarily on quality, or just come to Apriori!

More detailed information about hairdressing services is provided.

In 1904-1905 Karl Nestle in Germany invented thermal perm: hot perm - chemical perm using drugs and heat treatment with heaters. The method was patented in 1908, but manually heating the curls was cumbersome and inconvenient, and the curling time took more than 10 hours. And so, in 1924, Joseph Meyer uses flat curling of strands, and the Frenchman Marcel invents curling irons that create waviness close to natural. The tongs had different thicknesses and were made of a special type of steel. Hot curling with tongs appeared. Improvements to the Meyer apparatus became widespread throughout Europe. The device was attached to the ceiling or on a stand. Wires and hoses hung from the ceiling. This type of electric curling is still preserved in some hairdressing salons. There was also a device for heating curlers with twisted strands with steam. This perm was carried out under the influence of three factors:

1) chemical (curling liquid);

2) physical (ambient temperature);

3) mechanical (winding strands with curlers).

Coiffures de Mr. Borderie, 36, Bd. de Strasbourg, Paris. (1910)

The disadvantage of this method is that part of the straight hair remains 2-3 cm from the roots and the hair structure is not restored, as can be done with the help of neutralization in the modern version. Modern perm has supplanted all previous methods of perm and has won a strong place in hairdressing salons and at home among hairdressing lovers.

The “beauty salon” of the early twentieth century was quite easy to find. The indispensable sign in the form of scissors cut out of tin or cardboard, and popular prints with simple images of the services provided left no room for doubt - this was a hairdressing salon. However, the interior decoration of most of these establishments was also not particularly elegant. Rather, on the contrary, the barber and several assistants received the client easily, without any fuss: dirty corners, peeling walls and flies flying everywhere seemed an integral part of the interior.

Coiffures de Mr. Borderie, 36, Bd. de Strasbourg, Paris. (1914)

Having seated the newcomer in a chair and wrapped him in a sheet, the master loudly shouted: “Boy, water!” - and the “boy” immediately placed a tin of hot water on the mirror holder. Then the visitor was shaved or cut in the usual manner, he paid and hurried about his business. But a “holy place” is never empty, and the appearance of a new client meant that the procedure would be repeated in the same sequence. Therefore, the “boy” had to constantly keep hot water ready to serve it to the owner again and again. And woe was the slow one - punishment followed immediately! Boiling water, along with dental work and performing various small tasks, was proudly called “training in hairdressing,” and all this continued for more than one year. One can only guess what kind of hairdressers these students turned out to be...

However, Mikhailo Lomonosov was right: “The Russian land can give birth to its own Platos and quick minds of Newtons!” The path of one Russian coiffure, which began, like many others, as an “errand boy,” led to the title of Honored Professor of Hairdressing. According to some sources, in his birth certificate his name was Ivan Andreevich Kozyrev, but the Russian Empire and Europe recognized him under the name Andreev. The pseudonym that the master took for himself made him famous throughout the world! But until this moment, Ivan Andreevich had to, as they say, take a full sip of grief.

Coiffures de Mr. Brillaud-Noirat, 7, rue des Capucines, Paris. (1913)

He was born into a family of serf peasants in the Kaluga province and from childhood was accustomed to hard work. While still very young, Vanyatka easily handled livestock and was preparing to become a worthy successor to his father. But the family still lived from hand to mouth - sometimes there was not even bread in the house. To get out of poverty, in 1861, his parents sent young Ivan to Moscow to earn money. Finding himself in a huge unfamiliar city, he grabbed every opportunity to earn extra money, secretly dreaming of a “pure” profession - being a sex worker in a tavern or rising to the rank of clerk in a hardware store seemed like the ultimate dream for the young man. But fate decreed otherwise...
One day on the street Andreev ran into his fellow countryman: he, having got a job as a janitor, was quite happy with life and did not understand why Ivan should look for a better life. But he agreed to help - he took him to the barber shop Artemov, whose establishment was located on Sretenka. Mostly poor people and people from the Sukharevsky market went there to get their hair cut, so there was no shortage of visitors, especially on weekends. After carefully examining the teenager, Artemov, breaking down, agreed to take him on as a student.

Coiffures de la Maison Garand, 55, Bd. Haussmann, Paris. (1913)

Later, having already achieved worldwide fame, Ivan Andreevich reluctantly recalled this period of his life. But, fortunately, he still shared his impressions with several people. And one of the listeners who earned his trust turned out to be the famous namesake of the great coiffure - Leonid Andreev. The story told shocked the writer so much that he used it as the basis for his story called “Petka in the Dacha”...
The time of apprenticeship with Artemov became a real hell. Vanya slept on the floor, putting a log under his head and covering himself with a torn fur coat, but this pleasure was very short-lived. After all, we had to get up at five in the morning: we had to go get water. In winter - in the owner's old boots with a tub on a sled, and in summer - with heavy buckets on a yoke.
In those days, a barber's apprentice, contrary to common sense, had the least to do with a barber's instrument. In addition to water, the subject of special attention and care were... the owner's boots - the teenager was ordered to polish them until they shine every day. In addition, he had to set up the samovar in a timely manner so that the owners, upon getting out of bed, could “take a bite” of hot tea, as well as sweep and wash the floor, and chop wood. So that the “boy” is not lazy and has time to do everything that is assigned to him, both the owner, the mistress, and the masters consider it their civic duty to constantly “educate” him with the help of fists, rods, slaps and slaps on the head...

Hairstyles for women, France, 1910s.] (1913)

At ten in the morning, the barber Artemov, who suffered from tuberculosis and was therefore always in the gloomiest mood, gathered his students in one of the rooms and began learning the basics of hairdressing. The lesson was that the boys were first told about how to make wigs, and then given tasks to work on independently. At that time, many barbers had tailoring workshops that accepted orders for the then fashionable artificial hairpieces and braids. Maintaining such an institution was a very profitable business, since they usually employed the same students whose labor was worth mere pennies. True, the requirements for such work, despite the meager pay, were extremely strict: during the day it was necessary to make thirty stripes in three parts, sewing one hair into the monture. The occupation required not only certain skills, finger dexterity and good eyesight, but also enormous perseverance - the slightest mistake could lead to hopeless damage to the entire product. It’s not hard to guess what followed... Having found a free moment, Ivan watched with all his eyes as the craftsmen shaved and cut, curled their locks and fabricated their sideburns, trying to remember everything, down to the smallest details...
At the end of his ninth year of apprenticeship, Ivan Kozyrev accidentally met the then young hairdresser Agapov. Noticing the young man’s undoubted talent, he immediately offered Ivan a six-year contract, according to which he had to perform all the duties of a master, that is, cut, shave and perform hairstyles of varying levels of complexity. Of course, consent was received immediately - and a new life began for Ivan...

Coiffures vues au théâtre réjane à la première de "Zaza." (1914)

Working in a thriving salon gave the young man a unique opportunity not only to significantly improve his skills, but also to be the first to learn about new products and trends in hairdressing fashion of that time. And he worked tirelessly! Moreover, even then Ivan clearly set a goal for himself - to save enough money to open his own hairdresser. He had no doubt that the services of his establishment would be in demand - the “golden hands” of the Moscow coiffure were becoming increasingly popular among grateful clients.
It seems that the number 9 played a significant role in his fate: nine years of apprenticeship led him to Agapov, and nine years of hard work after that allowed him to start his own business. It is known for sure that the “Andreevskaya” hairdresser opened in 1879, but there are two versions about its location. According to the first, it opened on Kuznetsky Most, where already at that time there were many fashionable fashion stores. According to another version, Andreev’s hairdressing salon operated on Petrovka. Be that as it may, when setting up his own salon, Ivan Andreevich reasoned that “he would not spare money - as long as it was comfortable and pleasant for visitors.”

Coiffures de Mr. Madon, coiffeur de Mme. Poincare, 4, Bd. Malesherbes, Paris. (1913)

In an effort to make his establishment as different as possible from other wretched barber shops, he, familiar with the internal structure of European hairdressing salons from pictures from fashion magazines, acquired the best furniture, tools and newfangled products. It all looked like this: cosmetics and perfumes were displayed in glass display cases, samples of fashionable ladies' hairstyles and various accessories for them were also placed here, and books were displayed nearby. Later, a store was opened at the salon, where visitors could purchase a fashionable hairpiece or their favorite hair care product.
Following the European model, Andreev ordered that only one operation be performed in each room of his salon. Ivan Andreev's hairdressing salon is thriving, thanks to which his name is becoming widely known. True, so far only in Moscow, but Andreev is working tirelessly, preparing for real glory. And she didn’t have to wait long!

Coiffures de Mr. Perrin, 28, Fg. St. Honoré, Paris. (1910)

The first significant award was the “Big Silver Medal”, received in 1885 for participation in the All-Russian Exhibition. But this was only the beginning - after another three years, Ivan Andreevich became famous as the first Russian hairdresser to gain recognition in France. In 1888, in Paris, three hairstyles he created out of competition created a real sensation. For them, Ivan Andreev received diamond academic Palms and received applause not only from the fashionable public, but also from distinguished French hairdressers. After winning in Paris, his career took off sharply. In 1900, at the World Exhibition in Paris, a talented Russian master made a splash throughout the world by winning a competition in which about fifty experienced hairdressers took part. And he not only won, but actually “took off” the entire prize fund, receiving several awards at once: “For Art”, “Big Gold Medal”, “Big Silver Medal” and the Golden Cross along with a diploma for the title of professor of hairdressing. Andreev won his honorary prizes for excellently executed competitive hairstyles in the “royal style”: a la Louis XV and XVI, but the title of professor, along with the subsequent triumphal honor, went to him not only for his skill, but also for his amazing ability to create.
In a word, it was an undoubted success! The Russian master who amazed everyone was crowned with dignity: according to tradition, the winner should have been seated on the “Golden Chair”, but in relation to Andreev the matter was not limited to simple “seating”. The admiring crowd carried him on this throne several times around Montmartre. And the directorate of the competition, captivated by the incredible talent of the Russian coiffure, organized a ball in his honor...

Coiffures de Mr. Julien Laumet, 15, Place de la Madeleine, Paris. (1914)

Andreev’s further fate is no less successful. Returning to Moscow triumphant, he became the most fashionable hairdresser in the city. Only very wealthy people could afford haircuts “from Andreev”: prices in his salon were always quite high, but after the success in Paris they became simply crazy. Andreev enjoyed well-deserved authority not only as a highly qualified master, but also as a professional - after winning the World Exhibition, he was repeatedly invited as an expert and jury member to numerous exhibitions, hairdressing competitions and hairstyle shows. And in 1909 and 1912, at the numerous requests of his colleagues and students, Andreev even published catalogs of his hairstyles, which became very widespread - many famous European magazines published pictures of his works.

Coiffures de Mr. Lalanne, 100, Fg. St. Honoré, Paris. (1913)

In addition, he continued to engage in hairdressing, teaching the secrets of his craft to many people and running his own salon and store. And the constant striving for perfection forced Andreev to closely monitor all changes in the industry, mastering new tools and studying all kinds of cosmetics. Thanks to this, he was one of the first to start doing short haircuts, which became extremely popular in the 20s of the last century. His own work, admittedly distinguished by its incredible purity of line and special elegance of styling, became a model for subsequent generations of hairdressers. He was the first Russian hairdresser to create his own school: many of his students, in turn, became famous hairdressers. Andreev taught them the main thing that he himself knew how to do: preserve individuality and appreciate beauty.

For these hairstyles, Ivan Andreev received three Diamond Palms at a competition in Paris.

Left: hairstyle "Louis XVI with a wig of white hair", for which Ivan Andreev received a golden cross and an honorary diploma. Right: Louis XV hairstyle, for which he received the Grand Gold Medal.

At the World Exhibition in Paris.
Hairstyle "Fantasy" "with transformation", for which Andreev received a Big Silver Medal