The process of grading patterns is to move the design points of the contours of the patterns. These movements occur simultaneously in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Constructive grading points points of intersection of construction lines (angular) are called, i.e. points located along the contour of the part (notches), as well as points inside the contour (loops, darts, position of pockets, etc.).

All points change their position relative to original axes (lines). Baselines - these are two mutually perpendicular (horizontal and vertical) lines that remain constant for all sizes and relative to which the design points and contour lines of the patterns move.

Typical grading schemes are usually found in industrial clothing design practices. These diagrams are drawings of parts indicating the values ​​and directions of movement of design points in the transition from size to size, from growth to growth and from one full-size group to another. Schemes are usually developed using computational-analytical and graphical methods. They are also the initial base for the gradation of patterns using a computer (in CAD).

When performing gradation, the following basic conditions should be taken into account:

1. At the first stage of performing the gradation, it is necessary to establish the position of the original axes and designate the main and auxiliary design points. The position of the origin lines affects the magnitude and direction of movement of the feature points.

2. When developing the gradation values, factors affecting their value are taken into account. First of all, these are interdimensional, intergrowth and interbody differences for each dimension... These differences are called gradation factors... The transformation of the contours of the patterns of clothing parts during gradation depends on first of all, from the variability of dimensional characteristics.

In addition, when determining the values ​​of displacements of points, the principles of calculating design parameters, initial axes, preservation of the silhouette, length and proportions of the graded structures are taken into account.

In accordance with the dimensional standardization of the typical figures of women, three groups of coefficients were identified for the gradation of patterns by size. This is due to some differences in the body types of women of small, medium and large sizes. According to heights and completeness, one size-plus-size group was allocated. As a result, a total of five groups of gradation coefficients for women's clothing have been established:

By size (Og3 + About) these are groups 82-104, 108-124, 124-136;

· By height (P) - one group;

· By completeness (About) - one group.

Position baseline according to different industrial methods and depending on the cut may differ. So, in the 1988 Unified Clothing Design Method (EMCO), the position of these lines remains constant for sizes, heights and fullness. When choosing baselines using this technique, one of the conditions is to ensure the minimum movement of the most difficult curved sections of the structure. Figure 15 shows the position of the axes during the gradation of the patterns of the basic designs of shoulder and waist clothing in size and height according to the Unified clothing design method.

The following position of the baselines is adopted:

Back: horizontal - chest line; vertical - tangent to the back armhole line;

Shelf (in front): horizontal - chest line; vertical - a line tangent to the line of the armhole of the shelf;

· Sleeve: horizontal - axillary line; vertical - a line passing through the ends of the front roll of the sleeve;

· Front and back of trousers: horizontal - line of the hips; verticals - the middle lines of the back and front parts;

· Front and back of the skirt: horizontal - the line of the hips; vertical - lines of the middle of parts;

· Lower collar: vertical line only, passing through the notch corresponding to the position of the shoulder seam, or passing through the end of the collar.

Figure 12.16 - The position of the baselines during the gradation of patterns according to the Unified method of designing clothes

The direction of movement of points is determined by a plus or minus sign in front of the movement value. Movements are made both in the direction of increasing the size, and decreasing it, guided by the position of the constructive point in relation to the original axes.

Usually, the values ​​and directions of the gradation of points are given in industrial methods in the form of diagrams for typical designs of products with a set-in sleeve. For the original model structures of other cuts, for other divisions and for model structures, the gradation schemes of parts must be developed in advance. Proportional calculation method or grouping method is used.

The theory of gradation has not been sufficiently developed to date. However, when creating gradation schemes for specific designs, you should be guided by some general requirements for the gradation of patterns. As a result, checking the correctness of the gradation involves checking compliance with the following basic requirements (conditions):

· With gradation in size, the total width of the product along the chest line (by half of the product) changes by 2.0 cm (interdimensional increment of Cr 3);

· The distribution of interdimensional increments over the sections (to the width of the back, armholes and front) is set taking into account the variability of the corresponding dimensional characteristics, in particular, Шс, and Шг. For example, the interdimensional change in the measurement of "back width" is 0.5 cm. Therefore, the increment in size along the width of the back should be 0.5 cm. It should be remembered that the interdimensional increment in the width of the front is affected by the change in the volume of the mammary glands (difference Cr 2 and Cr 1);

· The change in the dimensional characteristics of St and Sb is distributed between the width of individual parts in the waist and hips in the same ratio as the increment to Cr 3 is distributed. Silhouettes and proportions in garments must be maintained at all sizes;

· Vertical increments for most points are directed upwards for large sizes, and downwards for smaller ones;

· The total length of the details of the back, front and sleeves at the same height should remain unchanged;

· The opening angle of the breast dart in women's clothing is necessarily changed when the size is graduated. The value of the interdimensional increment of the opening angle of the breast dart (∆ α) is approximately 0.5 °;

· Changing the size affects the amount of front-rear balance, because the volume of the breast increases. It should be borne in mind that the difference in vertical size increments at the top of the middle cut of the back and at the top of the neck of the front is 0.4 ÷ 0.5 cm for women's clothing.

· Points that are located on the original axes are moved in only one direction. On horizontal axes - only horizontally, on vertical axes - vertically. In this regard, the cutting edges of the barrel, the front sections of the parts of the double-seam sleeve, the side section of the back (according to EMKO) do not move on the shelf, that is, the sections close to the original axes;

· The total value of the horizontal increment to the width of the sleeve in finished form is usually projected to be 0.05 ÷ 0.15 cm more than the increment to the width of the armhole. This is necessary in order to maintain a constant rate of fit along the sleeve envelope in all sizes;

1. Determine the size and height variants of the gradation corresponding to the given size group and the size subgroup of the base variant. The required size and height options for figures should be determined according to OST 17 - 325 - 81, OST 17 - 326 - 81.

For example, the development of patterns for a women's jacket was carried out on a typical figure 158 - 96 - 104. This size is basic for the second full-bodied group, a subgroup of small sizes, which includes typical sizes 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104 and typical heights 146 152, 158 , 164, 170, 176. In gradation drawings, it is necessary to build 3 sizes down and two sizes up. For a basic size 96, you should build templates for all missing heights: 146, 152, 164, 170, 176.

2. Draw the contours of the base height of the details of the assembly. Apply gradation axes to every detail.

3. Select the method and scheme of gradation from among the recommended (1, 2, 4 ... 8) or available at the enterprise.

4. Sketch the gradation scheme for the details of the backrest assembly. On the diagram, indicate the directions and values ​​of the gradation increments at characteristic points (∆х i, ∆у i).

5. Build gradation drawings by size, then by height. Drawings are performed on graph paper in M ​​161.

6. Perform an analysis and refine the gradation drawings based on the comparison of the lengths of the same design parameters in the details of the extreme dimensional-height options. The analyzed parameters include parameters controlled by the table of measures of the technical description. In tabular form, reflect the results of the alignment of constructive increments incorporated in the controlled parameters.

Table 3.37

Analysis of changes in constructive increments during gradation

7. To analyze the conjugation, superposition and invariability in the ratios of the lengths of the sections of the patterns of the extreme dimension-height variants.

Table 3.38

Analysis of the change in the lengths of the connected slices after graduation

Table 3.39

Slice contingency analysis

Mens denim pants

graduate work

5.4 Gradation of pieces by size and height

In the recommendations of modeling organizations and individual fashion designers, we never see the attachment of a model to one size and height. Most often, the model belongs to the group of sizes and heights, taking into account the age influence. The design and the corresponding set of patterns are developed for one size and height. You can get a set of patterns for products of all sizes and heights recommended by the artist-fashion designer for a given model or for all sizes and heights of the basic design within the full size, or even age group, using the gradation of patterns.

Graduation is the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns of medium-sized and tall items of a product. The essence of the gradation process is to increase or decrease the linear dimensions of the original patterns.

There are several ways of grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method,

Proportional-calculated,

With the help of a computer.

Ray - the method consists in the fact that from a certain point of the structure (and sometimes a point outside the structure) called the focus, straight lines - rays are drawn through the main design points. An increment is plotted from the contour of the original part along these rays, and the contours of parts of the required size are drawn using new points. Most often, the ray method is used for the gradation of patterns for parts of hats, since this method is most accurate for parts close to regular geometric shapes.

Groupings - make two sets of patterns for parts (most often for medium and extreme sizes) and combine patterns of the same name along one or two lines. After that, the structural points of the same name are connected by straight lines, and the resulting segments are divided by the number of intermediate dimensions. Thus, constructive points of intermediate dimensions are obtained, as well as an increment from size to size. By connecting the corresponding points, the contours of the patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained. Most often, this method is used for the gradation of patterns for clothing details of complex models.

The most widespread is the proportional-calculated method of gradation.

Proportional-calculated - for each part, depending on its design, the main vertical and horizontal are selected. All design points of the part are moved parallel to the main ones by certain increments. The magnitude of the increment is directly related to the variability of dimensional characteristics. The values ​​of the increments were obtained by compiling calculation tables with subsequent verification of the calculation data by constructing construction drawings and combining them. Dimensional features of typical figures change with an increase or decrease in size and height by a constant (for each feature) value. The growth variability of those dimensional features that determine the width of the product and the main structural sections is small compared to the allowances for free fitting. Therefore, for some types of products, it becomes possible to abandon the laborious process of grading patterns by height, which can significantly reduce the pattern economy of enterprises. In this case, the gradation of patterns by height is reduced to the movement of the waist line and the bottom of the product and the sleeve.

At present, the use of computers with plotters facilitates and simplifies the work on the gradation of patterns.

The magnitude of displacement of the design points from size to size and from height to height is presented in table 10.

Table 10

Moving design points from size to size and from height to height in the main details of women's clothing

The pattern grading scheme is shown in the figure.

The gradation of patterns in size and height is shown on the graphic sheet

Model selection and design development of a women's blouse

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Clothing design

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Clothing design

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Corundum ceramic with bimodal particle size distribution

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Basics of design and technological preparation of production

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Casual summer set in the style of "Country" for teenage girls. Size 176-84-92

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Designing a safari style blouse for women

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Development of the model and design of a woman's dress

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Development of a model structure and design documentation for women's clothing

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In the course project, primary and model designs have been developed, patterns for a women's jacket r. 170-88-96 of the third full-length group. Patterns of the main parts for sizes and heights 164-88-96, 176-96-104 are obtained by their gradation ...

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Gradation of patterns - designing the contours of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns of medium-sized products.

The height gradation is based on the intergrowth intervals established using anthropometric measurements of the human figure.

One of the requirements for the process and methods of graduation is the preservation of the technical characteristics of clothing models that they received during the design and manufacture.

When analyzing the quality of samples, the designs of which were obtained by gradation methods, the following factors are analyzed:

The fit of the product as a whole,

The position of the main construction lines,

Maintains the silhouette and proportions expected for medium height,

Preservation of model features.

There are three ways of grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method,

Proportional-calculated.

The essence of the ray method is that after transferring the contours of the patterns to paper from a certain point of the part, rays are passed through all the most important design points of the given part, on which the increments are deposited. The resulting points are sequentially connected to each other, drawing similar contours of a larger or smaller size.

Grading patterns by grouping requires two sets of patterns of different sizes: medium and large, or medium and small. Patterns of parts of both sizes are sequentially transferred to paper, their contours are outlined, while always combining the basic horizontal and vertical lines. Constructive points of the same name on the aligned patterns are connected by straight lines and divided into the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes +1. The resulting points of each size are sequentially connected to each other in the same way as the lines of the main structure.

The most widespread in the garment industry is the proportional-calculation method of gradation. The essence of this method is that the design points of the patterns are moved horizontally and vertically in accordance with changes in the dimensional characteristics of the human body and the positions of the dividing lines.

The construction of drawings of the gradation is performed in the following sequence:

On each piece of clothing of the original size, the baselines and the origin of the gradation are determined;

Set and designate the gradation point;

From each point, the gradations of the original size are laid in the direction of the coordinates of the magnitude of the gradation;

The final points of the graded dimensions are found as the sum of two vectors - the diagonal of the parallelogram, the sides of which are increments to the given size of the part;

The corresponding points of the obtained size are connected and the outline of the clothing part is obtained.

The original lines and points affect the magnitude of the displacement vector of construction lines and points and remain for all sizes and heights.

When choosing origin points and lines, the following requirements should be taken into account:

Baselines and points should be the same for the corresponding parts of men's, women's and children's clothing;

They must ensure the minimum increment of the most difficult curved sections of the structure.

The change in the size of the patterns of the details of clothing is associated with a change in the dimensional characteristics of the typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the size of clothing parts during gradation are based on the patterns of change in subordinate dimensional characteristics, depending on the change in leading dimensional characteristics.

Considering these regularities, when grading clothing parts by size, the linear dimensions of the parts change both in the transverse and longitudinal directions. With the gradation of the patterns of clothing parts by height, some linear dimensions of the parts change only in the longitudinal direction, neglecting the transverse increments due to their small value.

The original horizontal increments for the size grading are the interdimensional differences along the chest, waist, and hips. The distribution of the interdimensional difference should be made in proportion to the dimensions of the parts.

The gradation of small parts depends on their location in the product, on the size of the part and is decided specifically for each model.

In this graduation project, the gradation of the following details is performed:

1. The central part of the front of the jacket

2. The side of the front of the jacket

3. The central part of the back of the jacket

4. The side of the back of the jacket

5. Bottom of the sleeve

6. Upper part of the sleeve

7. Cuff

8. The central part of the front of the dress

9. The side of the front of the dress

10. The central part of the back of the dress

11. The side of the back of the dress

Drawing up a table of measurements of patterns templates and finished products

To draw up a timesheet, it is necessary to establish basic and additional measurements for clothes of various cuts and divisions, as well as the maximum deviation from the nominal basic measurement values ​​of finished products according to regulatory and technical documentation.

For shoulder products, there are nine basic commensurate measurements of the human body:

Back length;

The distance at which the width of the back is measured;

The width of the product at the level of the depth of the armhole;

The distance at which the front width is measured;

Front or shelf width;

Front length;

The length of the sleeve;

Sleeve width;

Collar length (product with fastening to the top).

There are 3 dimensions for waist products:

For the skirt:

Skirt length;

The width of the skirt at the waist and hips;

For trousers:

Side seam length;

Half belt length or waist width;

Width at the bottom.

Other measurements may be included in the list of measurements, taking into account the model features.

Table 10. Measurements of patterns templates and finished product

Obtaining a set of patterns of all heights and sizes of the corresponding full-length or age group is carried out using the techniques of technical reproduction (gradation of patterns).

The gradation of patterns is based on the dimensional standardization of figures, according to which typical figures of different sizes and heights differ from each other in any of the dimensional characteristics by the size of the interdimensional or intergrowth interval. This interval is unchanged for the entire selected standard group of sizes, so the gradation is performed separately for each size group and size subgroup. Separate reproduction of patterns in full-size groups is also justified by the fact that each model is developed only for one full-size and size group.

The gradation of the patterns is carried out separately, first by size, then by height.

The contours of a piece of new size or growth are obtained by moving the design points of the original piece by a certain amount in the direction specified by the multiplication axes, with the subsequent connection of these points to each other. The position of the propagation axes is determined by practical experience, individual methods recommend their different positions.

Moving a point in the direction of an axis is called an increment. The new position of the constructive point is determined by the vector sum of the two components of axial displacements (Fig. 11.1-11.4).

The quality of the gradation depends on the validity of the magnitude and direction of movement of the points. The points located on the axes are incremented only along the axis. The point of intersection of the propagation axes has no displacement.

Rice. 11.1. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.2. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.3. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.4. Pattern gradation scheme

All design points related to the reference areas of the product, with gradation, have increments equal to the interdimensional and intergrowth intervals according to the corresponding dimensional characteristics. The increments at design points on non-support areas depend not only on the variability of the corresponding dimensional features, but also due to the requirements of the silhouette shape, etc.

In practice, the following methods of gradation are common: grouping method, beam and proportional-calculated.

The most widespread among them was the proportional-calculation method. It is based on determining the increments of the constructive point depending on the values ​​of the original horizontal and vertical increments and the location of the point relative to the propagation axes. The value of the initial increments is determined by the interdimensional increment of the dimensional attribute. For example, the value of the initial horizontal increment for shoulder garments with the distribution of the interdimensional interval - along the half-girth of the chest between the width of the main sections: back, armhole, shelf.

Proportional calculations are also used to determine the horizontal and vertical increments of points located inside parts (darts, pockets, etc.)

With regard to the typical cut of shoulder and waist products, standard patterns of pattern gradation have been developed, where the calculation of increments at design points is based on intergrowth and interdimensional increments for all dimensional characteristics.

In fig. 11.1–11.4 show grading schemes for sizes and heights of patterns of the main parts of a woman's shoulder garment according to the method developed in the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory. When multiplying by growth, the length of the part or its section is taken into account.

The difference in lengths between the growths along the length of the part and its sections is:

in shoulder products:

up to 50cm - 1.0cm,

up to 60cm - 1.5cm,

up to 80cm - 2.0cm,

up to 110cm - 3.0cm,

up to 120cm - 4.0cm,

in the sleeves - 2.0 cm;

in trousers - 4.0 cm;